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Couple Issues With the New 1050


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Just started with a brandy new 1050 but I am having one or two issues. Frequently handle will stop on the upstroke. All I need to do is release the ratchet mechanism in the back and I am running again. The machine isn't really jammed, it is just the ratchet pawl re-engages prematurely.

Secondly, the tab on the Lock Link ass'y is contacting the powder measure which is preventing the powder bar from operating normally (see photo). The tab on the lever is bent towards the body of the measure as if someone wanted it to make contact. Is it supposed to snap to give some mechanical agitation for more uniform throws?

Not sure if the two are related. I may be causing the ratchet to jam because I am going slow watching the powder measure. Appreciated any input.

1050CloseUp.jpg

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The bellcrank is supposed to be bent like this. This piece blocks the return of the powder bar until the end of the stroke, when the failsafe rod yanks this bellcrank down and out of the way, and then retracts the powder bar to pick up the next way.

On the ratchet tab, I suspect the bolt that secures this in place is loose. See if that bolt will tighten up.

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Not sure about your powder bar issue but take the ratchet off and put it in a drawer. You dont need it. :cheers:

+1 on taking off the rachet, best thing you can do to keep your stoking smooth and yes I am refering to your 1050 :roflol:

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Thanks for the input. I spoke with Dillon support and yes, the bellcrank bend is normal. (does dillon = Dillon support?) Glad I listed to the little voice in my head and didn't pick up the Dremel tool. All that needed to be done was to crank on the blue wingnut to put more spring tension on the rod. Thought I tried that yesterday.

As for the ratchet, there is a ball detent that holds the position of the ratchet tab. The slotted head that adjusts the spring pressure on the ball is accessible from the left side of the machine right behind the powder rod. Dropped the rod and gave the screw a 3/4 CW turn and it now runs like a champ.

Just cranked out 300 rounds in what seemed like no time flat so I am a happy camper. :)

Thanks again for the replies

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Get the DVD. Dillon should ship it with every press.

Manual needs some work.

I stick with my "spring-loaded" powder measures.

Always cycle all the way up and all the way down.

Maintain a steady, consistent handle cycling speed.

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Get the DVD. Dillon should ship it with every press.

Manual needs some work.

I stick with my "spring-loaded" powder measures.

Always cycle all the way up and all the way down.

Maintain a steady, consistent handle cycling speed.

I considered the DVD and I assume it would have been handy but decided it would not be $39 worth of handy. Of no value to me now unless it covers other topics like caliber changes or maintenance/lube process. I do agree the DVD should be included and was surprised to see they charged for it. I compare it to the similarly priced Bowflex I bought years ago that included a very useful DVD.

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I bought the 1050 DVD. One of the 1050s I bought had been disassembled quite a bit to pack into the smallest box possible and I needed some help.

The important part for me was actually watching the person set-up everything. It does cover caliber conversion.

Seeing how he did the various operations was very useful. Someone should have watched him and written the manual based on that.

I had a hard time removing the priming slide cycling arm assembly (don't have drawings in front of me for exact name), but I saw the way the operator lowered the handle about 1/3 down and the assembly slid right out.

It was these details that make a $40 DVD worthwhile for a $1650 press.

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