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Metal Caps for 2 x 4 wood to hold plates


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Due to restrictions we have here in our club, I am looking for pictures or drawings of alternative ways to hold 8 or 10" round plates on stands using 2" x 4" wood.

I have heard that some manufacturers in the US make caps for 2" x 4" wood, into which the plate is held by a bracket welded to the back of the plate.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers ....

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Try these...one is a cap, other is just a bolt, spring, 2 washers (one on each side of 2x4) and a nut. I prefer the bolt/nut method...cheaper and pings better when hit.

edited to add: I purchased my steel plates from Arntzen Targets...they come with a square hole for a 1/2 lag bolt.

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Edited by Mark R
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http://www.gttargets...etsandbases.htm

There was also a great article in Front Sight with diagrams for a 2X4 sleeve mount for steel. I'll see if I can dig it out, but I think it was in 2009 sometime. I built a half dozen of those and they're still in use in my back yard range.

BB

Edited by bbbean
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Problem with this type of holder is a bracket/arm is welded on the back of the steel where the hits on target will be...eventually the weld will give way.

We have eight of these plates and hangers,have been shot at least 5000 times with no breaks yet,,with most being major loads,,,

but I know things do break,,

Edited by EEH
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Using the bolt thru method, in 2 years of shooting steel we only had 2 bolt heads completely shot off. One we had to stop to replace the bolt. Other than those two bolt head failures (after being hit by open guns) we have not had any issues. And we are able to turn the targets around and use the back side. If you aren't using AR500 steel, then this is a good idea since the steel will start to concave. Using AR500 we don't have that issue.

And using the bolt spring type, we get good sound when hit.

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Funny, all these show the wide side of the 2x4 facing the shooter. I made all mine so that the thin side of the 2x4 faces the shooter. I have a hook on mine that goes into a piece of angle welded to the back of the target. Welding to the target isn't the greatest, but I like having a smooth side facing the shooter rather than a bolt head sticking out.

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Funny, all these show the wide side of the 2x4 facing the shooter...

Not saying which is better, but 4 or 5 well placed shots on a 1-1/2" face of the 2x4 will cut it down...wider at 3-1/2" needs more shots to cut it in two.

Perhaps, but you also have more than twice the area facing the shooter, so shots are more than twice as likely to hit the 2x4. Therein lies the conundrum. :-)

I actually get more damage from the splatter off the face of the target than any actual hits on the 2x4. It seems like it will take longer for the splatter to cut through the 2x4 hitting the small side than it would hitting the wide side, since it has to cut through 3 1/2" rather than 1 1/2". I dunno, maybe everybody knows something I don't. I made mine having never seen another and it seemed like the logical way to go. They have twenty matches of about twenty shooters shooting each target three times, so about 1200 rounds each with no significant damage yet.

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Thanks to all those whom posted replies.

I like all idea's posted as well as the comments from everyone given me plenty to think about.

In regards to welding, like everything there is the inherent risk of a weld breaking, with the right welding rods, you lessen that risk.

Just looking for something easy to setup for the users on the club range.

Thanks to All.

Cheers ....

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  • 1 year later...

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