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Home made reloading bench table


rinconjoe

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Here's the quickest, and easiest way I would recommend. Go to Home Depot and buy a 36" x 6'8" solid core door slab. There shouldn't be any hinge or knob cut outs in it and it should be about 50 bucks. Make sure it's a solid core. Then go over to the pool fencing and buy two 36" pre fabbed fence posts. They usually come in white or black powder coat and will have a flange on one end and a cap on the other. All you will need after that are 3 16 guage L - brackets you can get in the simpson tie area in the lumber section. Grab some lag bolts from hardware and you're all set. Just turn the "fence posts" upside down and use them for legs out front. Lag the L - brackets to the wall and set the door slab on top of them and the legs. It's a piece of cake to set up and it's solid. I've got plenty of room for long gun maintenance in between each of my presses.

PS Make sure you lag the L - brackets to studs in the wall. It's a pretty tall bench but so am I so it works well. If you need to you can pop the caps off of the posts and cut them down to whatever height you need and then just pop the caps back on. Hope this helps.

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Here's the quickest, and easiest way I would recommend. Go to Home Depot and buy a 36" x 6'8" solid core door slab. There shouldn't be any hinge or knob cut outs in it and it should be about 50 bucks. Make sure it's a solid core. Then go over to the pool fencing and buy two 36" pre fabbed fence posts. They usually come in white or black powder coat and will have a flange on one end and a cap on the other. All you will need after that are 3 16 guage L - brackets you can get in the simpson tie area in the lumber section. Grab some lag bolts from hardware and you're all set. Just turn the "fence posts" upside down and use them for legs out front. Lag the L - brackets to the wall and set the door slab on top of them and the legs. It's a piece of cake to set up and it's solid. I've got plenty of room for long gun maintenance in between each of my presses.

PS Make sure you lag the L - brackets to studs in the wall. It's a pretty tall bench but so am I so it works well. If you need to you can pop the caps off of the posts and cut them down to whatever height you need and then just pop the caps back on. Hope this helps.

A solid core door may actually have a core made up out of particle board, so you might have to reinforce the underside with really big washers or a steel plate.

What I would like to try one of these days is two gas pipe floor flanges screwed or bolted to the underside of whatever benchtop near the front edge. Then a 2X4 screwed to the wall. Then some 1 inch diamater or larger gas pipes screwed into the floor flanges. Those pipes could be 3 feet long and act as the front legs.

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As for the height of the bench, for me its the critical part. In my 550, my arm (w/ the handle/lever) must be fully stretched on the lever's lowest position. Otherwise it becomes strenous in long hrs of reloading. If bench is too low, shoulder will dip to reach that lowest stroke, if too high shoulder will lift. Both conditions not stress-free for me.

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I have a very small one I built with 2 2x4s hooked together for legs, and a shelf at the bottom. Had very little space and with the weight on the shelf from the bullets and brass it dosent move when loading. Bolting it to the wall wasnt an option as I have it in an apartment so that wouldnt go over well. I have enough room for the Dillon and a single stage I use for resizing and can remove as needed to have the other side free.

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A quick trip to Home Depot or Lowe's...found a "damaged" kitchen/bathroom cabinet for $35 (two door and drawer model). Then went to the counter top section...found a scratch and dent top for $25 that was 5 ft...which provided plenty of overhang to mount the press. Purchased a few screws/mounting hardware...and I was out the door with a reloading bench (some assembly required, batteries not included) for well under a $100. Works great...with plenty of storage!

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Here is the one I am in the middle of. 3/4" box tube in a 5" truss built to fit along two walls in my reloading room. It will have 1/8" steel top and shelf along the bottom. The feet are 1.5" box tube with adjustable poly feet.

post-6631-0-13034400-1324517160_thumb.jp

Edited by jmorris
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Are you going to powder coat that too?

Nice!

My idea about using the gas pipe floor flanges and gas pipe for the legs is that there is some adjustability in the legs for height if you need to level it .

The others thing you can do is drill and tap endcaps. Then screw in bolts to act like leveler feet.

I still have my original free standing reloading bench that I built back in 1995. I built it at the military base's wood shop using mortise and tenon joinery. The top is just glued up 2 by 4's. I used a router and a round nose bit to plow a gutter s out a half inch in from the edge. It keeps stuff from rolling off.

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I went with the gas pipe flanges and pipe. Very easy and very strong.

These pics were from when I was still applying polyurethane. The other pic is a gas pipe flange with 2 pieces of wood to add an extra little height. I have since added some shelves to the rear. The top is 2 sheets of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood laminated together. 66" x 27"

It's also nice that you can unscrew the legs and there is no wobble.

I also ended up painting the flanges black along with the legs, makes it look a lot better

post-34798-0-55913300-1324530504_thumb.j

post-34798-0-66950800-1324530518_thumb.j

Edited by Scoobb
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