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Got a milling machine ....


mscott

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I just bought a used Enco benchtop milling machine on a stand and could use some advice on tooling. I've never owned a mill, but figured every workshop needs one so here I am. I'll get a pic up in a day or 2. It has power down feed, power table feed added, 230v motor. Future plans are to maybe flute my Savage bolts, make an aluminum chassis stock, put some holes or slots in an AR handguard, and maybe make some lightening cuts on a Glock slide. All I got with the machine is a small and large vise, so I need to get some stuff.

It's an R8 spindle, so I'm guessing a set of collets are in order, but then noticed the individual end mill holders. Which would be the better way to go to get started?

Now about end mills .... there's 2 flute, 4 flute, HSS, coated, other alloys, etc. Should I buy a whole set or just a few like 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" to get started? What material (HSS, TiN coated, ??)?

Is it a good idea to get a couple of roughing end mills?

What about some sort of an indexer for fluting bolts or working on my AR handguards? I've seen some cheaper ones that use 5c collets for $50 or so and you can get a tailstock for them. Are they O.K. for my limited use? Would I be better off using a ball end mill and carefully setting them up in the vise?

What about machining on a Glock? I've heard they are very hard, so what's the best approach to them?

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Get a collet set. Chinese ones aren't that expensive and work fine. I like to use 4 flute endmills for a lot of things. With a small machine you probably will never need anything bigger than 3/8 but get a 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 when you have the cash cause you never know. Get an r8 with a drill chuck. It will be useful for indicating and edge finding. Use cheap high speed endmills starting out. You will trash a few of them in the self education process. With a smaller machine you will be stuck taking small cuts at slower speeds than you will think. When you start to figure it out, spend the money on carbide endmills. They are worth it. They cost too much and are too fragile to learn with. When you get real brave spend the cash on carbide ball endmills. I feel bad even when I break those at work. The cheap 5c indexers will work for cutting straight flutes with a ball endmill and that is about it.

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While I can't answer your questions I would suggest finding some scrap or cheap aluminum stock and practicing before jumping right onto expensive gun parts.

Better yet if you have a plastics wholesaler/supplier around. They often have scrap real cheap. Hard to hurt much with plastic.

A set of collets and some end mills like leas327 recomended.

I would NOT recomend working on a Glock slide on that mill or anytime soon. Likewsie for fluting bolts and or barrels. Aluminum handguards should be no problem with an indexer, even a cheap one as the precision is not needed.

Edited by MarkCO
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Mike I just realized I have shot with you at Rayners.

Other things you will need are a parrallel set, some 1,2,3 blocks, and a t-slot clamp set.

If you have any questions or need some help pm me and I will try my best. Maybe sometime I could get up that way to help if you need it.

Good luck,

Ryan

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Hello: Get a set of collets, a good vice and carbide end mills. Enco is a good source for tooling at good prices. Get a catalog from them since I find it easier to find stuff in there kinda like Brownells :roflol: Glock slides are very hard and you should use carbide cutters. The fun has just begun for you :cheers: I have been machining stuff for over 40 years and started at 6 years old at my dads tool and die shop. Go slow and measure alot till you learn your milling machine. Thanks, Eric

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I'm in somewhat the same situation you are. New to me mill with limited (read "no") experience running it. I didn't go small though. My problem is the Cincinnati Cintimill 205 we bought is a little big and has no quill. We did get the vertical attachment but I'm stuck dealing with a NMTB 30 taper with a B&S #21 collet holder.

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Thanks for the replies so far.

I would NOT recomend working on a Glock slide on that mill or anytime soon. Likewsie for fluting bolts and or barrels. Aluminum handguards should be no problem with an indexer, even a cheap one as the precision is not needed.

Obviously my first cuts won't be on actual guns parts I care about, but can't wait forever.

I agree on the collets, get em.It all depends on the rigidity of the mill, and the motor you have on it. If they still make the mill, post a link to some specs of it and we'll try to help you.

The Enco site has been down or I'd post a link. It's an older one with their name on it that sells new for a little over $2,000. It has the 230v 1 1/2 hp motor, power down feed, and weighs about 700#.

Mike I just realized I have shot with you at Rayners. Other things you will need are a parrallel set, some 1,2,3 blocks, and a t-slot clamp set.If you have any questions or need some help pm me and I will try my best. Maybe sometime I could get up that way to help if you need it. Good luck,Ryan

Small world, huh. A hold down set is on my list of things to buy. Maybe I'll see you at the Rayner's match in Feb.

Hello: Get a set of collets, a good vice and carbide end mills. Enco is a good source for tooling at good prices. Get a catalog from them since I find it easier to find stuff in there kinda like Brownells :roflol: Glock slides are very hard and you should use carbide cutters. The fun has just begun for you :cheers: I have been machining stuff for over 40 years and started at 6 years old at my dads tool and die shop. Go slow and measure alot till you learn your milling machine. Thanks, Eric

I've been buying stuff from Enco already for the lathe I got earlier this year, so already have one of their catalogs. There are a lot of tool companies out there, but Enco seems to be the "Midway" of them with decent stuff at fair prices. Sounds like carbide is the universal recomendation and the only way to go for Glock slides.

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Congrats on your new toy!!! Enco is great but check out Victor.net. I've been really happy with their prices and they've always been great to deal with.

In addition to all the tools already suggested I'd recommend getting a right angle plate and some Kant-twist clamps. You can find them on ebay or any of the vendors listed. I was surprised how useful it was to be able to clamp something to a vertical surface to work on it.

And an edge finder. Sooooo nice to have. I got a Starrett 827A from Amazon for $22. Really makes setting up easier.

Have fun :cheers:

Kevin

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Shars and Grizzly are 2 places that have decent tools pretty cheap. For now, get a set of R8 collets, a 1/2 inch keyed drill chuck with R8 shank, set of 20 thin parallels, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4,& 3/8 HSS 4 flute end mills. A set of tie downs, angle plate and Kant twist clamps. For doing fluting and such, you will need a spin indexer with tailstock. They use 5C collets. You can also get 5C collet chucks to use in them. That is like a 3 or 4 inch diam. lathe chuck with a 5C spud on the back that will fit anywhere a 5C collet goes. If your lathe uses 5C collets, you can use it in the lathe too.

For measuring, get a 0-1 micrometer, 6" caliper, edge finder and dial test indicator. You have to at least have a caliper and edge finder. Get a double ended 1/2" edge finder with a .200 end and a pointed end. You can use the edge finder in a collet or drill chuck.

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That is a round column mill-drill. They are not too rigid when it comes to taking a big cut in steel. However, with a little learning and a little tooling and light cuts it will probably do everything you want to do with it. Keep the spindle speeds to the lower end of the RPM range. Your cutting tools will last a lot longer.

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