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STI 2011 .40 kaboom


dauntedfuture

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For What It's Worth,

This months USPSA Front Sight Magazine had an article simular but different than this case.

Last month at a shot, on one stage there was a squib/bullet lodged in the barrel of 92fs

about 10 minutes later another shooter had a KB, Glock .40 blowed the mag out, the slide off, ejector and spring (never found, broke the frame. Shooter got a small burn and was very lucky. No-one came up with any answers. Guy was new to re-loading but had all good equipment.

I don't know how to express how important it is to be careful and safe re-loading, wear safety glasses and keep focused.

Perry

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I did not think about an out of battery incident. I have no idea at this point where the brass came from but it was more than likley range pick up factory stuff, possibly once fired but un likley. What might cause an out of battery incident? I have another frame on order, a Lee U die (might not need it) and dillon powder checkers all for good measure. Id hate to do this again. Only other thing that i can recall is that i had a few light primer strikes previous so i re cocked the hammer and things went bang (not boom). On the round that let go everything was working ok as far as i know well.. up to a point. Oh, no leading that i can speak of and accuracy was good.

Could very well be a sign of the gun not going into full battery

A 1911 should not fire out of battery, it has a disconnector to prevent that, the hammer will not fall if it is out of battery.

A 1911 should not fire out of battery, it has a disconnector to prevent that, the hammer will not fall if it is out of battery.

A 1911/2011 also should not blow up like the OP experienced... If the DC broke, or FP was stuck out, it certainly could fire out of battery.

Wrong. It could fire if its slightly out of battery even if the DC is ok. Check it w/ your gun unloaded, move the slide back jusy a bit, about 1/16-1/8" out of battery and pull the trigger.

So it was possible the gun was fired w/ the slide very slightly out of battery, as a result, the case head was not fully or solidly in contact w/ the breech face, making it the weakest area for the pressure to push thru aside from the bullet. This could happen even if the ammo was properly loaded to specs.

Edited by BoyGlock
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Must have been a double charge. I had 2 case head separations while shooting limited. They were a year apart and both of them happened with Federal nickel that is stamped "FC" (not "FEDERAL"). Both of them "felt wrong" and I felt some heat, but I didn't have any damage to the gun. Both case heads separated completely.

I started sorting my brass better ... never reload FC nickel brass!

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I took the pistol out to day and it shot without incident after the rebuild. After checking things out it appears that the pistol will fire with the slide pushed to the rear a little more than it should. Ill replace the disconnector as it looks a little worn. easy fix. I bought the pistol used and i have had to replace lots of the guts and i think i should have replaced a few more parts.

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I did not think about an out of battery incident. I have no idea at this point where the brass came from but it was more than likley range pick up factory stuff, possibly once fired but un likley. What might cause an out of battery incident? I have another frame on order, a Lee U die (might not need it) and dillon powder checkers all for good measure. Id hate to do this again. Only other thing that i can recall is that i had a few light primer strikes previous so i re cocked the hammer and things went bang (not boom). On the round that let go everything was working ok as far as i know well.. up to a point. Oh, no leading that i can speak of and accuracy was good.

Could very well be a sign of the gun not going into full battery

A 1911 should not fire out of battery, it has a disconnector to prevent that, the hammer will not fall if it is out of battery.

A 1911 should not fire out of battery, it has a disconnector to prevent that, the hammer will not fall if it is out of battery.

A 1911/2011 also should not blow up like the OP experienced... If the DC broke, or FP was stuck out, it certainly could fire out of battery.

Wrong. It could fire if its slightly out of battery even if the DC is ok. Check it w/ your gun unloaded, move the slide back jusy a bit, about 1/16-1/8" out of battery and pull the trigger.

So it was possible the gun was fired w/ the slide very slightly out of battery, as a result, the case head was not fully or solidly in contact w/ the breech face, making it the weakest area for the pressure to push thru aside from the bullet. This could happen even if the ammo was properly loaded to specs.

Keep in mind, even if you try this 'slightly out of battery' position, the barrel should still be fully locked up and not dropping out of the lugs in the slide. This means the case is still fully seated in the chamber. However, maybe this has relived enough pressure 'forcing' the case into the chamber, so when it fires the gun unlocks 'sooner' than normal (maybe before the bullet is out of the barrel?) and pressure went to the path of least resistance? IE out the bottom of the case, instead of out the muzzle like normal.

I took the pistol out to day and it shot without incident after the rebuild. After checking things out it appears that the pistol will fire with the slide pushed to the rear a little more than it should. Ill replace the disconnector as it looks a little worn. easy fix. I bought the pistol used and i have had to replace lots of the guts and i think i should have replaced a few more parts.

Its normal for a 1911 to 'fire' slightly out of battery like this, so your disconnector may be fine. If you bought the gun used and put a bunch of new parts in, maybe you should have a 'smith go through the gun thoroughly to ensure everything is still setup and fit properly and safely.

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Loading at 1.230 OAL is your chamber cut deep enough to take that long of a round? I had to have the chamber lenghtened in one of STI's when new to take longer COL bullets as they wouldnt go into battery at 1.195 COL...just a thought

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1.200 OAL drops right into my chambers with TCFP bayou 180 bullets and thats what i shot last weekend. I replaced the DC and the pistol now has less play as to where the hammer will fall in relation to slide position. I figure thats a good thing as there is noticible wear on the old DC. I have also installed another FP. Not sure if i need one but the one i have is on the short side. In summary I have replaced the safety, grip safety, slide release and now the DC and firing pin. In reality we might never know what happened to this pistol to cause this malfunction. I have serious doubts that this was a DC due to the lack of excessive recoil but it is possible and I now have a powder check on my 650. In the event There was some bullet set back im now using LEE U sizine dies. I have replaced the DC in the event that that was an issue and allowed a "slight OOB incident" so i figure there is not much more to do that go shoot some more and keep wearing eye pro.

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  • 2 months later...

I blew my edge up in 2005. I posted about it here.

My KB was a double charge of tite group. A lot of TG can fit in a .40 case. The barrel hood was blown off and shreds were peeled back like a banana. The slide bulged, but the frame, mag and rounds were fine. Quite different from your damage.

My kb was the luckiest day of my life. I changed everything after that. I've loaded tens of thousands of rounds since and my ammo has been perfect. I leave the destroyed Barrel on my bench as a reminder.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

For what it's worth, I am willing to bet you got ahold of some old Federal brass which was defective. Since I am new on the Site, apparently I am unable to post links but if you do a search for "The Gun Zone .40 S&W Kaboom" you will find the info including lot numbers of the defective ammo. How do I know? Been there, done that, TWICE. Apparently I am not able to post pic's either yet. (I tried to attach a pic of my misfortune)

Bottom line guys and gals - DO NOT SHOOT OR RELOAD ANY .40 S&W FEDERAL BRASS WITH THE FC HEADSTAMP (this came from the manufacturer's rep)

BTW - Federal is replacing the 4 boxes of ammo that I had with new.

Edited by 10mmau
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For what it's worth, I am willing to bet you got ahold of some old Federal brass which was defective. Since I am new on the Site, apparently I am unable to post links but if you do a search for "The Gun Zone .40 S&W Kaboom" you will find the info including lot numbers of the defective ammo. How do I know? Been there, done that, TWICE. Apparently I am not able to post pic's either yet. (I tried to attach a pic of my misfortune)

Bottom line guys and gals - DO NOT SHOOT OR RELOAD ANY .40 S&W FEDERAL BRASS WITH THE FC HEADSTAMP (this came from the manufacturer's rep)

BTW - Federal is replacing the 4 boxes of ammo that I had with new.

What's the reasoning behind this? So, are FC 40 S&W not reloadable anymore? Something we don't know about?

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Apparently the earlier .40 S&W cases were marked FC. When they began producing the new stronger cases they changed the headstamp to Federal. I was led to believe the affected cases were from the Hydra Shok line but I personaly would be leery of any case stamped FC. Picking up .40 S&W range brass marked FC for reloading is just asking for trouble. Maybe it was or maybe it wasn't just the Hydra Shok cases that were weak but after having 2 blowouts myself, I am not taking any chances.

Do a search on the web for "The Gun Zone .40 S&W Kaboom"

Edited by 10mmau
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