Glock for production class

[Red Ryder]

Ok I just bought a Glock 17 RTF2 Gen 3. Please tell me what I need to do to it to make it production ready. What sights? What trigger? Can I add the grip plug? Guide rod etc? Thanks!

[sirveyr]

It's ready to go as is, but I would suggest a set of Sevigny sights for sure.

[Heshin]

^^Sights + ammo and you are good to go!

[Sin-ster]

I run Sevigny's on mine and would agree, but a lot of people who look down them are not as impressed. There's a lot of daylight on either side of the front post, which IMO is great for what we do-- but YMMV.

It's difficult to call anything necessary, but the standard list of modifications is pretty easy to pinpoint.

The trigger is simple and relatively inexpensive to work up. Connector, striker spring, trigger spring, plunger/striker block spring-- from most effective to least, that's how the pull is lightened. You'll also benefit from PROPERLY polishing the contact surfaces, which will take out a lot of the grittiness, smooth up the press, negate any bumps or jerks in the travel, and give you a few ounces more towards your lightening. However, going to a lighter striker spring is almost a guarantee for light strikes on certain primers and/or under certain circumstances. The drop-in fix that has worked for me is the Glockworx lightened/extended striker, and Federal SPP only. (You also want to be SURE to keep your striker channel free of oily solvents and lubricant of any kind, and I highly recommend detail cleaning with some regularity.) Finally, and IMO the most important adjustment, is an overtravel stop of some kind. The Ghost Rocket kit has one built into the connector, but I much prefer the Vanek Classic drop in trigger (which has basically everything you could possibly need, other than the new striker.)

You'll also want to tune the gun to your load, and your load to the gun. Heavier bullet than 115 + fast burning powder = softer shooting. The 9mm Glocks are also over sprung, and you can drop the weight way down to also help the gun to shoot flatter. Most people seem to be comfortable at 13#s with a 130-ish PF load.

Get the gun "grippier"! Pre-cut tape, stairway tread, stippling-- there's plenty of options out there. But I find, along with many others, that the wonder-polymer is slippery as all get out if your hands are even a little bit moist-- which they will be!

You can indeed use a grip plug, BUT you must ensure it does not extend past the bottom of the magazine well. IIRC, Scherer makes the one that I use. Many will say it's mostly cosmetic, but I tossed one in to help avoid snaring the mag against the frame during a hasty reload.

I went with a SS guide rod from Jager, but not so much for the added weight as the ability to drop in ISMI flat coils for tuning purposes. I've experimented with a tungsten rod (heavier) and didn't notice much of a difference. There is always the concern of "making weight" with your pistol as well, as the gun cannot be more than 2 ounces than the factory listed weight and still be Production legal. (Keeps people from pouring lead into their frames and what not.)

Most importantly, learn how to work on the gun yourself. You don't need a Glock armorer's certificate; many people teach themselves from the *better* videos on YouTube. One of the biggest advantages of the Glock in competition, IMO, is the ability to self-tune and self-repair the pistol. Don't go crazy with experimentation, but get to know the guts of the handgun-- it's incredibly accessible.

[ck1]

I run Sevigny's on mine and would agree, but a lot of people who look down them are not as impressed. There's a lot of daylight on either side of the front post, which IMO is great for what we do-- but YMMV.

It's difficult to call anything necessary, but the standard list of modifications is pretty easy to pinpoint.

The trigger is simple and relatively inexpensive to work up. Connector, striker spring, trigger spring, plunger/striker block spring-- from most effective to least, that's how the pull is lightened. You'll also benefit from PROPERLY polishing the contact surfaces, which will take out a lot of the grittiness, smooth up the press, negate any bumps or jerks in the travel, and give you a few ounces more towards your lightening. However, going to a lighter striker spring is almost a guarantee for light strikes on certain primers and/or under certain circumstances. The drop-in fix that has worked for me is the Glockworx lightened/extended striker, and Federal SPP only. (You also want to be SURE to keep your striker channel free of oily solvents and lubricant of any kind, and I highly recommend detail cleaning with some regularity.) Finally, and IMO the most important adjustment, is an overtravel stop of some kind. The Ghost Rocket kit has one built into the connector, but I much prefer the Vanek Classic drop in trigger (which has basically everything you could possibly need, other than the new striker.)

You'll also want to tune the gun to your load, and your load to the gun. Heavier bullet than 115 + fast burning powder = softer shooting. The 9mm Glocks are also over sprung, and you can drop the weight way down to also help the gun to shoot flatter. Most people seem to be comfortable at 13#s with a 130-ish PF load.

Get the gun "grippier"! Pre-cut tape, stairway tread, stippling-- there's plenty of options out there. But I find, along with many others, that the wonder-polymer is slippery as all get out if your hands are even a little bit moist-- which they will be!

You can indeed use a grip plug, BUT you must ensure it does not extend past the bottom of the magazine well. IIRC, Scherer makes the one that I use. Many will say it's mostly cosmetic, but I tossed one in to help avoid snaring the mag against the frame during a hasty reload.

I went with a SS guide rod from Jager, but not so much for the added weight as the ability to drop in ISMI flat coils for tuning purposes. I've experimented with a tungsten rod (heavier) and didn't notice much of a difference. There is always the concern of "making weight" with your pistol as well, as the gun cannot be more than 2 ounces than the factory listed weight and still be Production legal. (Keeps people from pouring lead into their frames and what not.)

Most importantly, learn how to work on the gun yourself. You don't need a Glock armorer's certificate; many people teach themselves from the *better* videos on YouTube. One of the biggest advantages of the Glock in competition, IMO, is the ability to self-tune and self-repair the pistol. Don't go crazy with experimentation, but get to know the guts of the handgun-- it's incredibly accessible.

Word, pretty much nailed it. Maybe the only thing I'd add (and that he probably just forgot to mention) is adding the factory extended mag release (Glock OEM part# 1981), the few mm's of extra plastic matter more than one might guess...

Also, I'd second what was said about the reduced-power striker-springs requiring Federal primers exclusively (and sometimes a lightened striker too)... if one can just manage to deal with a half-pound heavier trigger-pull, then the stock striker and spring will work every time and is far less of a headache.

A SS, tungsten, or whatever guide-rod isn't really a necessary change either IMO, you can just pull the plug off the front of the stock polymer guide-rod and run it un-captured, Glock frames are designed to flex a little under recoil and the polymer guide rod is part of the original design, changing that to a metal one just to gain a half ounce of weight doesn't seem quite worth it to me.

[gpo1956]

I run Sevigny's on mine and would agree, but a lot of people who look down them are not as impressed. There's a lot of daylight on either side of the front post, which IMO is great for what we do-- but YMMV.

It's difficult to call anything necessary, but the standard list of modifications is pretty easy to pinpoint.

The trigger is simple and relatively inexpensive to work up. Connector, striker spring, trigger spring, plunger/striker block spring-- from most effective to least, that's how the pull is lightened. You'll also benefit from PROPERLY polishing the contact surfaces, which will take out a lot of the grittiness, smooth up the press, negate any bumps or jerks in the travel, and give you a few ounces more towards your lightening. However, going to a lighter striker spring is almost a guarantee for light strikes on certain primers and/or under certain circumstances. The drop-in fix that has worked for me is the Glockworx lightened/extended striker, and Federal SPP only. (You also want to be SURE to keep your striker channel free of oily solvents and lubricant of any kind, and I highly recommend detail cleaning with some regularity.) Finally, and IMO the most important adjustment, is an overtravel stop of some kind. The Ghost Rocket kit has one built into the connector, but I much prefer the Vanek Classic drop in trigger (which has basically everything you could possibly need, other than the new striker.)

You'll also want to tune the gun to your load, and your load to the gun. Heavier bullet than 115 + fast burning powder = softer shooting. The 9mm Glocks are also over sprung, and you can drop the weight way down to also help the gun to shoot flatter. Most people seem to be comfortable at 13#s with a 130-ish PF load.

Get the gun "grippier"! Pre-cut tape, stairway tread, stippling-- there's plenty of options out there. But I find, along with many others, that the wonder-polymer is slippery as all get out if your hands are even a little bit moist-- which they will be!

You can indeed use a grip plug, BUT you must ensure it does not extend past the bottom of the magazine well. IIRC, Scherer makes the one that I use. Many will say it's mostly cosmetic, but I tossed one in to help avoid snaring the mag against the frame during a hasty reload.

I went with a SS guide rod from Jager, but not so much for the added weight as the ability to drop in ISMI flat coils for tuning purposes. I've experimented with a tungsten rod (heavier) and didn't notice much of a difference. There is always the concern of "making weight" with your pistol as well, as the gun cannot be more than 2 ounces than the factory listed weight and still be Production legal. (Keeps people from pouring lead into their frames and what not.)

Most importantly, learn how to work on the gun yourself. You don't need a Glock armorer's certificate; many people teach themselves from the *better* videos on YouTube. One of the biggest advantages of the Glock in competition, IMO, is the ability to self-tune and self-repair the pistol. Don't go crazy with experimentation, but get to know the guts of the handgun-- it's incredibly accessible.

Great response. One of the better posts I've read in a while.

[rjennings10]

I found this webpage on Dave Sevigny's head-to-toe gear when I was searching for the same thing. Sights are a must, unless you really like the glock sights. Maybe some griptape.

http://www.tactical-life.com/online/exclusives/dave-sevignys-head-to-toe-gear/

[Sin-ster]

Indeed, I overlooked the extended mag release.

I don't use one personally because it chews the living crap out of my support hand, but that's not the case for most folks. Sadly for me, this means breaking my firing grip to drop the mag-- but I've managed to work my way around it thus far.

[Matrix68]

Keep it simple...shoot it and then make changes along the way.

Over time, you will find out what you like and don't like. For example, I have tried several different sight combinations (and a couple hundred dollars later)...my favorite ended up being stock rear and dawson fiber optic front.

My vote would be to invest in ammo, good holster, mag pouches, and shoot the crap out of it!

[LPatterson]

WOW what has happened to this forum, normally 3 people would have chimed in by now that it is a Division and not a class. Have we mellowed that much in our old age?

[BradGannaway]

HEY! "Production is a DIVISION"-----class refers to your classification...unclassified through GM.

BSG

[Red Ryder]

WOW what has happened to this forum, normally 3 people would have chimed in by now that it is a Division and not a class. Have we mellowed that much in our old age?

I purposefully typed "production class" just to screw with the nit pickers! I've seen it happen in several other posts!

[JimmyZip]

Ok I just bought a Glock 17 RTF2 Gen 3. Please tell me what I need to do to it to make it production ready. What sights? What trigger? Can I add the grip plug? Guide rod etc? Thanks!

This is my production gun. It has taken me to C last season. It has the Sevigny sights, and that is it. I bought it from a forum member who put on the sights and did a trigger job to it. it failed to touch off my CCI primers, so I made the trigger stock again. It has never failed me since. It is a fun gun to shoot. It only took me about a month of dry fire to really get used to the trigger. Now though, I really enjoy shooting it, and would like to buy another just like it. If you ever feel you want to change to another gun, let me know, and I will buy that one from you. Seriously. I really like the RTF2 frame. It fits my hand like a glove, and the texture is just crazy good.

Good luck and enjoy.

[glknineteen]

I say just change the sights and shoot. You'll start slowly to see what you'd rather go with in terms of triggers, guide rods, etc, and change those as time goes on. Glocks are great though, and the sights are really the only true weak link in most peoples opinions.

[Zerwas]

The problem with some Glock owners is the need to tinker,,,,too much. This sometimes leads to malfunctions that normally wouldn't occur if you just left the stock parts in the pistol.

The shooter is then left spinning around chasing their own tails as to what the problem is with the guns and why they don't go bang.

I'd switch out the sites for sure, and maybe polish the connector and trigger bar and install a longer mag catch, but that would be about it. I wouldn't mess with any of the actual firing components--this is where the tail chasing starts...

Good luck.

[MrVvrroomm]

The problem with some Glock owners is the need to tinker,,,,too much. This sometimes leads to malfunctions that normally wouldn't occur if you just left the stock parts in the pistol.

The shooter is then left spinning around chasing their own tails as to what the problem is with the guns and why they don't go bang.

I'd switch out the sites for sure, and maybe polish the connector and trigger bar and install a longer mag catch, but that would be about it. I wouldn't mess with any of the actual firing components--this is where the tail chasing starts...

Good luck.

Agree 100%, especially since the OP is asking about a Production pistol

[Bob DuBois]

Put a set of Plain Black Sevigny Sights on my Glock 34 and was pleased till I shot another shooters 34 with Dawson adjustable sights. Tighter sight picture made longer shots easier. Mine's used for IDPA SSP.

I would suggest you look at several other shooters pistols before the purchase to see which has the best sight picture for you.

The weak link on a Glock for competition is the sights, lots of options to chose from.

[Garyg19]

It's ready to go as is, but I would suggest a set of Sevigny sights for sure.

Stupid question on the Sevigny sights. It looks from the pictures like they're fixed rear sights. How to I sight in the gun after they're installed if I can't adjust them?

Thanks

[GForceLizard]

I have and like the dawson adjustable sights.

[frankge]

IMHO the light strikes come down to the individual gun setup. I have a G34 with 13lb recoil spring, 4lb stiker, and lightened ZEV4 Stainless striker. I was getting light striker with the stock glock striker. About 1 every 200 rounds with Tula SP primers. Now i have not (knock knock) had a light strike. I also dropped a Vanek Classic trigger in it and it's a lot better than my .25 cent job.

[Sin-ster]

IMHO the light strikes come down to the individual gun setup. I have a G34 with 13lb recoil spring, 4lb stiker, and lightened ZEV4 Stainless striker. I was getting light striker with the stock glock striker. About 1 every 200 rounds with Tula SP primers. Now i have not (knock knock) had a light strike. I also dropped a Vanek Classic trigger in it and it's a lot better than my .25 cent job.

Identical to my set up, from start to finish.

With Federal SPP, I haven't had a light strike in 12k+ rounds fired. I stopped knocking on wood somewhere around 10k.

If you over-tinker without understanding what each and every part does in the pistol, it's easy to run into problems that you can't diagnose. Anything involving a dremel should be avoided, unless you're knowledgeable AND experienced (with the tool and working on the gun). But there are enough Glocks out there that have been highly tuned and run 100%, provided they are properly maintained and literally *tuned* (as opposed to just "tinkered with"). If we're talking about someone fresh to the gun chucking up their connector or trigger bar in the vice and doing some "simple reprofiling", that's one thing. But dropping in parts, when properly balanced and off set, will not inherently lead to problems. Every gun is different of course, and some may indeed run into problems down the "customized road"-- but I'd bet they're the small percentage, and not the norm.