New to Glocks, bought a newer 34, have some mechanical questions

[Mattz]

(I registered on "Glock Talk" and tried to post this but that forum will not let me post..)

Hello

I purchased my first Glock and have a couple quick mechanical questions. (first post here too)

I bought a used 34 that is 5 months old and has 500 rounds through it. It's in mint condition but has some small area's with wear that I'd like to question. (and the trigger pull)

1. I shot 2 different rental 34's before this purchase and both triggers were smooth as silk. This newer 34 trigger feels like it's stiff compared to the rental ones. Will it be smoother once it wears-in more or is the trigger a different weight? I read the 34 comes with a 3.5lb trigger but my label states that I have a 4.5lb trigger. (ADJ 4.5LB) I'm only target shooting with this so I'd like it as smooth as possible and it's nowhere near that now. Should I do a little internal finishing or do I just have a heavier trigger?

2. The gun's inside and out condition shows it's had light use. Everything looks almost new inside but the trigger bar has some bad wear in one spot and it's deforming and causing a burr. (please see pic 1) Is this normal wear for 500 rounds? (my other guns have shot 1000's without metal wear like this)

3. It came with 3 clips and they all have the same 2 wear marks in them. One is the release ledge that is smashed down bad and not a good 90 deg step any more. (pic 2) The other is the very top of the clip, it looks like the slide is gouging into them. (pic 3) I thought it could have been poor mfg when cleaning up the plastic but they all have the same wear marks in them. With the step gouged downward and the top of the clip worn, could the clip be inserting too far?

Any define answers would be greatly appreciated. I was honestly not a Glock Fan when I was younger but now that I've actually researched and shot them, I'm starting to like them. I'll be getting to know them better and better but any help from the users is always nice to know.

Thanks you and have a great day

Matt

[Mattz]

This site would not allow me to post the hosted links for thepics and will not allow for more than 2.

Here is the third pic from the above post.

Thanks

Matt

[Sarge]

My mags look similar to those.

As for the internals. I switched out to a Vanek right from the start and it is pretty smooth. That wear looks abnormal and is probably causing some stiffness in the trigger. I would very lightly sand, buff etc theat area to just get rid of the excess. Careful not to get stupid with a dremel or anything as you will cause many more problems than you fix.

Being only fired 500 times that is basically new. Compared to rentals with umpteen thousand rounds on them I would expect them to be pretty smooth as far as triggers go.

Does the box the gun came in have a blue label? If so that is an LEO model and will have a heavier trigger. That is what I bought new since it came with three mags but the trigger was pretty stiff.

[Mattz]

My mags look similar to those.

As for the internals. I switched out to a Vanek right from the start and it is pretty smooth. That wear looks abnormal and is probably causing some stiffness in the trigger. I would very lightly sand, buff etc theat area to just get rid of the excess. Careful not to get stupid with a dremel or anything as you will cause many more problems than you fix.

Being only fired 500 times that is basically new. Compared to rentals with umpteen thousand rounds on them I would expect them to be pretty smooth as far as triggers go.

Does the box the gun came in have a blue label? If so that is an LEO model and will have a heavier trigger. That is what I bought new since it came with three mags but the trigger was pretty stiff.

Thank you for the quick and informative reply Kevin.

I haven't looked to far into these issues, I wanted to post first to see if they were normal. (thanks for the clip info)

I can deburr the tigger bar area but would like to know what is causeing this with it being a newer gun? I can clean it up and put some rounds through it and then see.

I just wanted to make sure I don't have a lemon gun or something with these marks.

Thanks again and have a good one

Matt

[Mattz]

My mags look similar to those.

As for the internals. I switched out to a Vanek right from the start and it is pretty smooth. That wear looks abnormal and is probably causing some stiffness in the trigger. I would very lightly sand, buff etc theat area to just get rid of the excess. Careful not to get stupid with a dremel or anything as you will cause many more problems than you fix.

Being only fired 500 times that is basically new. Compared to rentals with umpteen thousand rounds on them I would expect them to be pretty smooth as far as triggers go.

Does the box the gun came in have a blue label? If so that is an LEO model and will have a heavier trigger. That is what I bought new since it came with three mags but the trigger was pretty stiff.

Sorry I forgot to mention it has a white label.

I live in CA so I'm limited with the guns I can purchase..

Thanks again

Matt

[Duane Thomas]

Hey, Matt! Welcome to Glockville. A few answers to your questions:

1. I shot 2 different rental 34's before this purchase and both triggers were smooth as silk. This newer 34 trigger feels like it's stiff compared to the rental ones. Will it be smoother once it wears-in more or is the trigger a different weight?

Trigger pulls do tend to smooth out a bit as you use the gun.

I read the 34 comes with a 3.5lb trigger but my label states that I have a 4.5lb trigger. (ADJ 4.5LB)

A few years ago Glock changed the terminology on their "3.5 pound connector" to "4.5 pound connector" because they realized that was more realistically what you'd get if your changed the connector (most Glocks feature a 5.5 pound connector, only the competition models have the 4.5) and nothing else. It's the exact same part, just a different name.

Should I do a little internal finishing or do I just have a heavier trigger?

Polishing out what's there will not make that much difference weight-wise, maybe a quarter pound, however it will get rid of the grit.

2. The gun's inside and out condition shows it's had light use. Everything looks almost new inside but the trigger bar has some bad wear in one spot and it's deforming and causing a burr. (please see pic 1) Is this normal wear for 500 rounds? (my other guns have shot 1000's without metal wear like this)

That doesn't really look to me like bad wear, rather a factory part that wasn't quite as well finished as maybe it should have been. In any event, hitting the relevant portion with an Arkansas stone, then completing the polishing with a felt wheel and polishing compound on a Dremel tool should deal with all that just fine.

3. It came with 3 clips and they all have the same 2 wear marks in them. One is the release ledge that is smashed down bad and not a good 90 deg step any more. (pic 2) The other is the very top of the clip, it looks like the slide is gouging into them. (pic 3) I thought it could have been poor mfg when cleaning up the plastic but they all have the same wear marks in them. With the step gouged downward and the top of the clip worn, could the clip be inserting too far?

What you are seeing there is normal on any Glock magazine that actually gets used. The mag catch cutout and the top of the mag are not what regulate insertion depth on a Glock mag. Take the slide off the frame and then run your finger inside the top of the mag well. At the left rear (as the gun faces away from you) you'll feel a little rectangular "block" (for lack of a better term) protruding from the side of the mag well. It's on the top of the mag well right under the ejector. Now look at your magazine. On the top left of the mag body you'll see a little step in the tube. When you insert the magazine into the gun the step butts up against the block and absolutely prevents overinsertion of the magazine.

Hope that helped.

[dirty whiteboy]

Use a nail file to remove the burr on the mag notch, just make it even.

[Duane Thomas]

Why, if it's not causing any problems? It's just gonna come right back.

Edited November 18, 2011 by Duane Thomas

[Mattz]

Hey, Matt! Welcome to Glockville. A few answers to your questions:

2. The gun's inside and out condition shows it's had light use. Everything looks almost new inside but the trigger bar has some bad wear in one spot and it's deforming and causing a burr. (please see pic 1) Is this normal wear for 500 rounds? (my other guns have shot 1000's without metal wear like this)

That doesn't really look to me like bad wear, rather a factory part that wasn't quite as well finished as maybe it should have been. In any event, hitting the relevant portion with an Arkansas stone, then completing the polishing with a felt wheel and polishing compound on a Dremel tool should deal with all that just fine.

Hope that helped.

Hey Duane! Wow, that's the best reply I could have received, thanks man!

I couldn't have asked for more define and detailed info for these questions.

One thing though, the trigger bar has been beat on that edge to disform like that, it's not a factory burr. You can see where that whole edge has been having metal contact. (shiny and peened from the rear of the gun) I'll have to look and see what's hitting it, it kind of sounds like there may be an issue.

Thanks again and I'll post if I find anything.

Matt

[Mattz]

Thanks again for the replies

I have another quick question. What is the loose part that "clinks" when the gun is shook up and down or forward and backawrd? (but not side to side) It does it with or without a clip but not when the gun is cocked or when the slide is off.

I'm sure it's "common" but can it be quieted down or isolated?

Also, I'm loving my new Glock (and would purchase another) but I have to say the frame quality is a little cheesy. (compaired to my Colt and Spring) The simple design, weight and function make up for the cheesyness I guess.

I appreciate the info and may be able to add my own once I get into these Glocks.

Matt

[kevin c]

That rattle is the striker.

In the fired position, the striker is loose in its channel.

In firing condition, the striker tang is slightly pulled back by the end of the cruciform plate (the equivalent of an engaged sear), and doesn't move freely because it is now partially tensioned by the striker spring.

ETA: hearing it is a normal condition of the design. I don't know of any way of deadening the sound, other than to put lubricant into the channel, which is a very big no-no.

Edited November 11, 2011 by kevin c

[dirty whiteboy]

Why, if it's not causing any problems? It's just gonna come right back.

OK, wait till the mag doesn't drop out, then file it down with a nail file.

[Biloxi23]

Shaking the slide is one of teh checks to ensure that the striker is free to move in the channel. I have encountered over 10 pistols in the last 20 years that had so much evaporated oil and carbon in the firing pin (striker) channel that teh striker was "frozen" and the pistol would not fire. In each case it was because oil or solvent was allowed to run into the striker hole in the bolt face. It is good idea to point the slide muzzle down when cleanin the bolt face, and use a ry (no solvent), stiff brush. On a really dirty bolt face, I have used a Q-tip moistened with alcohol. It also important when cleaning the firing pin channel to no use solvent, and NEVER use a brush in the channel this will pull out the polymer firing pin channel liner, which will then need to be replaced. Although they are cheap, you may not have one when you need to replace it.

[glknineteen]

If it makes you feel any better, my glock has the same exact wear in the same areas. Glocks seem to wear internally quickly and then slow way down. It shouldn't be an issue, but definitely pay attention to it as you clean and maintain it. Also, after a few thousand rounds, my trigger is definitely better than it used to be. It's hard to say it's gotten lighter, but it's definitely smoother, and no real grittiness.

[Sin-ster]

To avoid gunk in the striker channel, I've turned to a gentle cleaner that basically evaporates (oil-free) over a relatively short period of time, and also serves as an excellent degreaser. MilCom products are my favorite, to pitch the brand name.

I also pull the gun apart to the tiny little pieces every 2-4k rounds and give it a full detail work over. One of my main focuses in the process is making the channel spotless, and then soaking up any/all moisture that I've used in the process. Q-tips and pipecleaners are your friends!

[Mattz]

That rattle is the striker.

In the fired position, the striker is loose in its channel.

In firing condition, the striker tang is slightly pulled back by the end of the cruciform plate (the equivalent of an engaged sear), and doesn't move freely because it is now partially tensioned by the striker spring.

ETA: hearing it is a normal condition of the design. I don't know of any way of deadening the sound, other than to put lubricant into the channel, which is a very big no-no.

Thanks for the info.

I was unsure and thought it might have been a sloppy sheet metal piece moving around in there..

Thanks again

Matt

[Mattz]

Why, if it's not causing any problems? It's just gonna come right back.

OK, wait till the mag doesn't drop out, then file it down with a nail file.

Good point

I don't like the looks of it so I think I'll be removing it.

I'm not sure if it will come back becasue the materail has already been deformed but we'll see.

Thanks for the responses

Matt

[Mattz]

Shaking the slide is one of teh checks to ensure that the striker is free to move in the channel. I have encountered over 10 pistols in the last 20 years that had so much evaporated oil and carbon in the firing pin (striker) channel that teh striker was "frozen" and the pistol would not fire. In each case it was because oil or solvent was allowed to run into the striker hole in the bolt face. It is good idea to point the slide muzzle down when cleanin the bolt face, and use a ry (no solvent), stiff brush. On a really dirty bolt face, I have used a Q-tip moistened with alcohol. It also important when cleaning the firing pin channel to no use solvent, and NEVER use a brush in the channel this will pull out the polymer firing pin channel liner, which will then need to be replaced. Although they are cheap, you may not have one when you need to replace it.

If it makes you feel any better, my glock has the same exact wear in the same areas. Glocks seem to wear internally quickly and then slow way down. It shouldn't be an issue, but definitely pay attention to it as you clean and maintain it. Also, after a few thousand rounds, my trigger is definitely better than it used to be. It's hard to say it's gotten lighter, but it's definitely smoother, and no real grittiness.

To avoid gunk in the striker channel, I've turned to a gentle cleaner that basically evaporates (oil-free) over a relatively short period of time, and also serves as an excellent degreaser. MilCom products are my favorite, to pitch the brand name.

I also pull the gun apart to the tiny little pieces every 2-4k rounds and give it a full detail work over. One of my main focuses in the process is making the channel spotless, and then soaking up any/all moisture that I've used in the process. Q-tips and pipecleaners are your friends!

Thanks for the great advice guys

I was unaware that the firing pin channel had a specal coating that would be runied by solvent or a brush. That is good to know.

I will be breaking the gun down 100% to understand it and get it 100% cleaned up. I'll then put some rounds through it and see where the trigger is at after that.

I think it will be fine but will post back if I find any issues and note what I did to fix them.

Thanks again for all the help. Great forum so far!!

Matt

[Smokecloud]

that mag doesnt look like a new style magazine and from the long number on the follower, im curious if its a factory Glock mag. Read on the .25 cent trigger job as well, some light polishing will help smooth out the gritty parts. Other than that, shoot it a lot.

[fosters3]

(I registered on "Glock Talk" and tried to post this but that forum will not let me post..)

Hello

I purchased my first Glock and have a couple quick mechanical questions. (first post here too)

I bought a used 34 that is 5 months old and has 500 rounds through it. It's in mint condition but has some small area's with wear that I'd like to question. (and the trigger pull)

1. I shot 2 different rental 34's before this purchase and both triggers were smooth as silk. This newer 34 trigger feels like it's stiff compared to the rental ones. Will it be smoother once it wears-in more or is the trigger a different weight? I read the 34 comes with a 3.5lb trigger but my label states that I have a 4.5lb trigger. (ADJ 4.5LB) I'm only target shooting with this so I'd like it as smooth as possible and it's nowhere near that now. Should I do a little internal finishing or do I just have a heavier trigger?

2. The gun's inside and out condition shows it's had light use. Everything looks almost new inside but the trigger bar has some bad wear in one spot and it's deforming and causing a burr. (please see pic 1) Is this normal wear for 500 rounds? (my other guns have shot 1000's without metal wear like this)

3. It came with 3 clips and they all have the same 2 wear marks in them. One is the release ledge that is smashed down bad and not a good 90 deg step any more. (pic 2) The other is the very top of the clip, it looks like the slide is gouging into them. (pic 3) I thought it could have been poor mfg when cleaning up the plastic but they all have the same wear marks in them. With the step gouged downward and the top of the clip worn, could the clip be inserting too far?

Any define answers would be greatly appreciated. I was honestly not a Glock Fan when I was younger but now that I've actually researched and shot them, I'm starting to like them. I'll be getting to know them better and better but any help from the users is always nice to know.

Thanks you and have a great day

Matt

Matt,

In addition to what is posted, take out the connector and make sure it is truly a 3.5lb. I bought a lightly used 34 myself and they swapped connectors. You can tell if it is a 3.5lb connector if you see a "-" on it. This may be why it seems a bit heavier.

[jake617]

My 34 has 3-4000 rounds thru it. No deformed plastic parts like your excellent photos. One ploy you might use in getting 'hands on' with factory expert care, is to sign up for a Glock Match. I didn't know this until last year: as a match competitor they will work your Glock over and clean, update or troubleshoot/repair anything needed.

My antique G23 original model had never been tore down for full clean. It was getting a bit funky, and they replaced all the linkage etc, showed me some tricks, and stuck in a big pile of new and updated trigger, etc NO CHARGE!!! other than the match fee..... The whole guts was in the category the tech said "Wow, nobody has used THESE connectors for 15 years....etc".

The more I shoot them the more I like them.

The tech told me that you *want* to hear that little sound when you shake it as it demonstrates your striker is capable of movement within its little channel...which is GOOD.....

Edited November 14, 2011 by jake34

[Mattz]

Hi

I got into the gun and found a similar issue as mentioned on Glock Talk. (my post came up over there after a couple days)

The connector was bent out about .100" from the trigger mech housing causing the bar to wear on the plastic as shown in the first pic below. (the three shiny spots from the ribs on the frame and the whole area in the back by the connector) I read (and found out) that the connector does need to be bent out some to catch the trigger bar. When it was 100% within the housing on mine, the bar could slip off. (I guess it depends on mfg variances in the sheet metal parts)

I gradually bent the connector to where it was sticking out the least but still making 100% contact with the trigger bar. There wasn't much inside to clean, everything looked in almost new condition. (only the sheet metal wear) I wiped everything down and put the 5 drops of oil on as stated to lube them.

That did get rid of the grittiness of the trigger pull but there is still a very weird pull with this gun. I'm going to look at it more but it feels and sounds like there's a define 3 stage trigger. (instead of just one continuous smooth one)

The first 1/3 of the pull is nothing but some sheet metal noises inside then there's a light stop. The second (2/3) of the pull there's more mechanical noise and a little more resistance. The last third step of the pull is what the whole thing should feel like, a gradually stiffer pull to the break.

Maybe it just needs to get worked in. I've shoot 6 (and dry fired another) and they all had similar pull feels but they were all very used.

I'm going to put a few hundred rounds through it and see if it's any different. If not I'll send it back to Glock.

Here's a couple more pics of the top of the bar wear. (it's still hard to see in these pics) It was caused by the connector pushing the bar over so the slide pin was only hitting the edge of the sheet metal tab. (not in the center of it)

Thanks for the help and I'll post if the trigger works in or I figure something else out.

Matt

[Mattz]

Matt,

In addition to what is posted, take out the connector and make sure it is truly a 3.5lb. I bought a lightly used 34 myself and they swapped connectors. You can tell if it is a 3.5lb connector if you see a "-" on it. This may be why it seems a bit heavier.

I looked and and I do have the "-" stamp on the connetor.

It still doesn't feel anything like the 6 other Glocks I've shot in the past month. All were well used so I'm hoping this trigger will smooth out.

I'll see and then either get another trigger set up to try or send it back to glock to be checked out.

Matt

[EkuJustice]

I would go with the glocktriggers.com trigger. Jeff does a great drop in trigger. Just be sure to order to challenger or the vogel if your shooting production or ssp with this gun. That trigger will put the std trigger to shame and makes a night and day difference.

[Mattz]

Hi

I think I may have the funky trigger figured out.

Along with the far bent out connector, it looks like the trigger bar has uneven wear in the back. With the slide off I can see the 3 stages of the trigger I'm feeling and think that the back end of the bar might be a bit tweaked.

I'm going to get a new trigger bar and see how it looks and feels. Once I get it feeling right, I'll do the extra tweaking to make smoother/lighter.

Side Question: (new, don't want to make another post..)

Any thoughts or comments on the Zev Tech V4 Race Connector? After reading up, on paper, this one could offer a far lower pull than the other 4 major mfg's offering a 3.5lb connector. (Glockworx states 2lb) This will just be a target plinker so I'd like the trigger to be as smooth and easy as possible.

Thanks

Matt