New Reloader

[joey_safety]

... and then placed my order for a 550 package from Mr. Enos.

As I mentioned to him in an e-mail, it is like being a 10 year old on Christmas Eve.

Brian was great to work with so far, and from everything I've read and heard that won't change as I go through this process.

I have also been very impressed by these forums, and its members. Amazing information and comradery.

In the last few months through all the reading, watching videos, and talking to anyone that knows anything about reloading I made my purchase.

In the last few days I've ordered all the basics, a few extras, and then started on the consumable items.

I picked up large and small winchester primers both large and small pistol, a pound of Alliant Bullseye, and some bullets, and I think I ran across my first issue...

I have a 45. It has a 3" barrel. Kimber Super Carry Ultra

I will also be reloading for a 40 S&W with 4.5" XDM 40

The bullets I purchased (all my local store had for the 45) - Hornady, 45 CAL, .452", 230 GR LRN This is listed on the Alliant site, but not for Bullseye

They had none for the 40, so I ordered more of each:

Speer Bullets 40 S&W, 10mm Auto (400 Diameter) 165 Grain Total Metal Jacket Box of 100 Nothing but •165 gr Speer GDHP listed

Hornady Bullets 40 S&W, 10mm Auto (400 Diameter) 200 Grain Full Metal Jacket Flat Nose Box of 100 (Bulk Packaged)No 200 G listed at all

Hornady XTP Bullets 45 Caliber (451 Diameter) 200 Grain Jacketed Hollow Point Box of 100 They show •200 gr Speer GDHP that works with Bullseye.

I apologize for the long-winded post, but wanted to make sure I provided basic information for my n00bish question. I have searched, and have had great success using the search function on this forum.

I have found plenty of questions in this arena being answered with "start low and work your way up", make sure you are clear of the lands, etc, but what exactly is working up, and does it apply to any recipe with respect to bullet and primer mfgr? I did see you should never substitute one powder ffor another, I ASSumed that meant with regards to the grains when loading.

Thanks

[mds131s]

Start at the lowest recommended powder weight and work up from there to reach the velocity you are wanting but never ever go over the max powder weight recommended by the manufactures

[Amerflyer48]

May want to move this over to the General reloading forum,..

General rule of thumb same grain weight and composition is good to go as in your

200 Grain Jacketed Hollow Point Box of 100 They show •200 gr Speer GDHP

Jacketed = Jacketed Jacketed does not = plated or lead so don't use jacketed data for plated or lead bullets ..

but a 200 gr RN,JHP,FP,TC etc. is all good but you may have to fiddle with OAL to get them to feed,..so usual caveat of lowering powder charge and adjusting OAL and then getting velocity correct with charge applies...

Bullseye is a very fast powder I always gravitated to WW 231 for my .45 and I haven't really played with the .40 much since I use a 10mm with a Discontinued powder I have stockpiled..

In my experience Bullseye is better for light bullets and more midrange velocities as in "Bullseye" style shooting and some bullet weight and calibers aren't suited for this particular powder you may want to read up in the general reloading forum to see which powders may suit you better depending on what you want to do..

Hope this helps

John

P.S. "Starting low" is in reference to starting on the lower powder charge end of the suggested loads in the reloading manual and "working up" to a larger charge weight which causes greater velocity and pressures sort of an ease into it proposition before you get in too deep resulting in a blown primer or Ka-Boom if you go too far for a given firearm,bullet and powder combo.

Edited October 25, 2011 by Amerflyer48

[The_Vigilante]

Not sure whether you are reloading for competition or just a day at the range. If you plan on getting into IDPA/USPSA I would suggest buying your bullets in bulk-from Montana Gold, Precision Bullets, Bayou Bullets, etc. If you buy them by the 100 from the major manufacturers you are paying the most expensive price. Also suggest investing in a few more powders besides Bullseye. Titegroup would be my 1st suggestion. Again buy it in either the 4-lb or 8-lb bottles to get the best price.

[superdude]

other potentially useful information:

http://38super.net/Pages/Bullet%20Design%20and%20Feeding%20Reliability.html

http://38super.net/Pages/Recoil.html

[joey_safety]

All great information!

Thanks!

Is there a conversion for lead to jacket?

[joey_safety]

Not sure whether you are reloading for competition or just a day at the range. If you plan on getting into IDPA/USPSA I would suggest buying your bullets in bulk-from Montana Gold, Precision Bullets, Bayou Bullets, etc. If you buy them by the 100 from the major manufacturers you are paying the most expensive price. Also suggest investing in a few more powders besides Bullseye. Titegroup would be my 1st suggestion. Again buy it in either the 4-lb or 8-lb bottles to get the best price.

I am with you here.

My first time out, I kept the purchases on consumables small amounts for mistakes like this.

It seems I may have Hornady 45 lead bullets I need a different powder for already

I plan on the bulk primer, powder, bullet purchase once I have a good match.

Thanks for those sites, definitely a couple I haven't been to.

[Amerflyer48]

lead to jacketed,.. Hmm, not that I know off hand as pressure isn't linear when dealing with gunpowder..

that is to say there is no Jacketed charge times or divided by a factor of % = lead charge or vice versa

think of each bullet weight/powder is its own little world pressure changes differently for a given combo and OAL and crimp amount..

Always best to find a loading manual that lists lead and one that lists Jacketed bullets Lyman is a good one but then again mine is the 46th. edition circa 1982 most of my loadings are based off of that and lots of range time working out different combos with targets and chronographs.

I am sure a current Lyman book would serve you well as a starting point..my book shows a Bullseye loading for a 225 gr RNL but is so old no .40 S&W or 10mm data

Welcome to your new addiction,

John

[joey_safety]

lead to jacketed,.. Hmm, not that I know off hand as pressure isn't linear when dealing with gunpowder..

that is to say there is no Jacketed charge times or divided by a factor of % = lead charge or vice versa

think of each bullet weight/powder is its own little world pressure changes differently for a given combo and OAL and crimp amount..

Always best to find a loading manual that lists lead and one that lists Jacketed bullets Lyman is a good one but then again mine is the 46th. edition circa 1982 most of my loadings are based off of that and lots of range time working out different combos with targets and chronographs.

I am sure a current Lyman book would serve you well as a starting point..my book shows a Bullseye loading for a 225 gr RNL but is so old no .40 S&W or 10mm data

Welcome to your new addiction,

John

Thanks for the welcome, and all of the information.

I ordered the 1 12580 Reloading Manual - Speer #14

I have a Lyman I've been reading. It is from '92. I will check out the lead data there. I did note you said "current" Lyman book, and I'm sure I will be adding several reloading manuals.

I went with the spear for starters because 1, it was one of the two sold here, and 2, I heard it mentioned a few times it had great basic reloading information, IE "do this" and "don't do that".

I'm a simple guy, and yes sir, one amazing addiction.

[rexican]

Alliant has some more data on their website where you can search by caliber or by the powder. I don't find it to be as helpful as Hodgdon's site, which lists reccomended starting loads and much more information. Winchester/Hodgdon/IMR are compiled into one online database, and they have a wider range of different bullet types and weights. This may help with your powder selection if you if you wish to try another type later on. I believe titegroup and 231 were mentioned earlier, both of which are fine choices.

Congrats on your Dillon, and safe loading,

Rex

Edited for repitition.

Edited October 25, 2011 by rexican

[Poppa Bear]

My Lyman 49th Edition does a pretty good job of showing bullet profiles as part of the load data. As long as your profile and weight are similar to that shown in the book you are pretty safe using the data listed even if the names do not match. One of the more common problems to be run into is the book will list a weight and style and you will have a similar style but your bullet might be 5 grains heavier. You are pretty safe starting at the minimum charge and working your way up. If you find you have a bullet that fits between two of the loads listed then compare the two's data and you can see where a good starting load is at.

If all you can find is load data for jacketed bullets for a specific powder, then take 10% off the minimum charge and use that as your starting point. If you compare similar weights for both jacketed and lead/ plated/ moly, you will see that the jacketed starts at a higher charge.

[Youngeyes]

1. Buy several loading manuals.

2. Pick a load.

3. Start at the low end.

4. Work your way up til you are happy. Don't exceed max.

5. Buy a chronograph,it'll be your best friend.

6. Welcome