Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

.223 to Chamfer and Deburr or not!?


cworks

Recommended Posts

I notice a big difference in accuracy in a RRA LAR-15 Vatmint gun between chamfering or not. So I went the Giruad path.

What trimmer were/are you using?

I was using a LE Wilson hand trimmer. So, comparing flat cut with trimmer to trimmer plus VLD chamfer by hand. I was getting a lot of bullet shavings without the chamfer.

So, I went with the Giruad and use it for 223, 308, 6.5 Creedmoor, etc..

Edited by cwall64
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Maybe my chamber is too tight, but if I don't chamfer and debut loaded rounds will get stuck in my chamber due to the edge on the case mouth. Seems no one else has this problem so I must be special

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm still using the Rockchucker press I bought in 1973 without any regrets.

I use a VLD deburring tool on all my reloads and even for my two AR15 rifles for a very good reason. It aids in seating the bullet and reduces bullet runout and uniformity.

If you are lazy and don't deburr you can use a Lyman type "M" expander die and just bump the second step of the expander to flare the case mouth. This will require to bump the case mouth with a taper crimp die for reliable feeding,

Various3_zpsi85oz4p6.png

Below on the right is a new unfired case that has not been trimmed and on the left is a trimmed case after wet tumbling with stainless steel media.

brasspins002_zpsa284f342.jpg

Bottom line if you do not like deburring the case mouth then find another hobby.


Yep its a labor of love!

Sent from my minnie using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎6‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 7:23 PM, RiggerJJ said:

Bull. Use the above expander die or the Dillon swage hold down die to bell the case mouth, (removes the need to chamfer) and also use a taper crimp die to remove the bell. (Also removes the need to deburr).

Thousands upon thousands of 223 and 308 rounds have been done this way. No need to chamfer or deburr!

jj

Eta; Using the Dillon trimmer and dies explained above allows for no individual handling of cases, while using the pencil sharpener type trimmer require it. Doing it on a progressive is worth much more than a comparison in price, and gets the job done in a fraction of the time. Ill take the progressive thank you...

I don't care to be called a liar, just posting my results.  I don't have a Lyman M Die, I was trying to use a RCBS full length size die and just back the die body off a bit, so I was just using the expander ball to help with deburring the inside of the case mouth and open up the ridiculously tight case mouth after the Dillon trim die, but it was not working enough and I was shaving the bases of the bullets upon seating.  Soooo I went back to deburring and chamfering the mouths, the loads worked great when I did this.  I spent about $800 to streamline this process on my 650 and was hopefull, but it didn't work out as well as I had hoped.  I still like the 650 and running the ammo through the progressive, it saves a tone of time and is producing good ammo, but I have not been able to eliminate my case handling.  I probably never will because I still uniform my flash hole and primer pockets after eliminating the crimps from the miliarty brass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve had basically the same experience as JJ. I process all my .223 brass for 3gun using 55 Hornady FMJBTs and 69 Nosler HPBTs on my 1050. I first deprime on my 650 and cleaning wet/SS. On the 1050, I use a full length Dillon sizing die, RT1200B trimmer, Lyman “M” die in my set-up followed by a dry tumble in corncob with a little Nu-Finish. I load on my 650, using a slight Dillon taper crimp to finish them off. I get well 1 MOA for my loads using mixed brass and if I sort well within MOA. I process my precision bolt gun .223 and .308 Lapua brass the same way removing the M die and chamfering slightly by hand for initial firing, after which I neck size only.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/23/2011 at 9:19 PM, Chills1994 said:

major thread drift ahead....

take a look at this screenshot I took from Natchez Shooter's Supplies's website:

NatchezLoaded223Ammo.jpg

that is one thousand rounds of PMC bronze LOADED .223 ammo for 31 cents a round, delivered.

Okay? for this next screenshot from the handloading calculator at Handloads.com, I went with 8 pounds of Varget at $137.99, each round takes 27.5 grains of Varget, Winchester Small Rifle Primers at $28.49 per one thousand, Scharch processed once fired brass of $113 per one thousand, and then Montana Gold 55 grain FMJBT's at $110 per one thousand.

The price per round comes out to 31.9 cents!

HandloadsCalc2.jpg

Are you sure you still want to reload?

I am assuming you're getting brass for free, right? I see you're in your Class A's/mess dress (whatever you Army folks call it???)

If you are getting your brass for free (military range scrounge'ings), then that knocks the price down to 20.6 cents each. But you will have to spend the money and time to get rid of the primer crimp.

And, of course, if you're in Alaska, that shipping from Natchez is gonna change drastically. In which case, all of the above is moot. sigh......

That stuff sucks in my accuracy tests anyway. (PMC Bronze) And up here we can ship in loaded ammo. So yes its worth it. Also if you take the brass cost out it significantly changes the price and most of us don't throw the brass away after one firing. In fact some of us get ample supplies of free brass from just picking it up off the ground. Also your bullet price is high. You can get Hornady FMJ's bulk for as little as 7.5 cents each when you get a case. Varget is a poor choice for light bullets H335 with 25 grains is a better choice or similar faster ball powders. This also drops the price. Its like you tried to make reloading look expensive in your example.  My .223 reloads are right at about  20 cents each for bulk mixed brass FMJ ammo.

Pat

Edited by Alaskapopo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I bought the Giarud tool that adapts to a drill.  I made a sleeve so it fits on a electric motor I had.   I made an adapter so it sits perpendicular in my vise.  IMO it works better for me. I wear a pair of rubber nibbed gloves and after a learning curve I can process shells with both hands. It works great and I would definitely recommend trimming  chamfering and deburring with the Giarud.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I used to hate trimming then chamfer and deburing cases, to a point were I didn't reload any rifle for about 6-8 months. I then purchased a Giraud case trimmer and I can't say I love trimming cases now but it sure does make things a lot quicker. I was able to trim, chafer and deburr about 2k cases in about 6 hours over a 2 day period. Saved a ton of time and didn't kill my fingers as bad as the old way on the RCBS case prep center.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...