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picture of tuned extractor for 38 supercomp


texarkana

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I am having empty casings dribble out of the gun. They are getting caught in the chamber area (facing different directions). And yes the shiney areas are wear from the casings as the slide goes forward. This extractor was "tuned" by a gunsmith. When the extractor was tuned it allowed the end of extractor to be further in(towards the left side of the gun). Did this cause the casings to hit the extractor before the angle starts and causing my problem? Thanks for any comments. Texarkana

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Edited by texarkana
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If the brass is dribbling out of the gun that has more to do with the Ejector prong which is part of the sear cage. If the extractor was failing due to insufficient depth you would have a situation where the spent case isn't being pulled out of the chamber post shot. Basically the extractor fingers slip past the rim of the case and leave the case in the chamber. If its extracting successfully but the brass isn't getting thrown properly that is an ejector prong issue. Take a picture of the ejector prong so we can see how that looks. Some times people cut back the length of the ejector prong so the brass isn't launched into the next berm when you shoot. If its cut back too far then the brass will dribble out of the gun like you described.

The EAA/Tanfo guns are well known for launching the brass way forward at a high velocity. Some people don't like that and start mucking with the ejector prong so it will eject the brass closer to where they are shooting.

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I didn't know that Tanfo extractors needed tuning, beyond replacing the extractor spring when they start failing to hold rounds. I guess it's time to learn something new.

What kind of tuning needs vs can be done to a Tanfo? Is this tuning for all calibers or only specific calibers?

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Skydiver> You can tune the depth of the extractor hook by taking material off of the nub just behind the hook. You basically want the extractor to hold the base of the brass by the spring tension of the extractor spring. Some times the "Nub" behind the extractor hook is too tall and it bottoms out against the slide before the brass is being pinched between the extractor hook and the side of the breach face. The easiest way to test if your extractor has the appropriate depth is to take a spent case and push it up under the extractor where it would be normally located when the round is chambered and fully locked up. The brass should be held in place by the spring tension of the extractor pushing it against the side of the breach face. You only need to reduce the height of the "Nub" until it starts holding it in place properly. You can go too far with this adjustment as well and it will cause failure to feed issues because the extractor is too deep into the breach face area and the rim of the case can't slip under the extractor finger easily. If the extractor depth isn't tuned properly you will get intermittent failure to eject jams that happen very infrequently.

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Mr. Cha-Lee, You mention in your post of 1:15 pm today that if the extractor is not tuned correctly it can cause infrequent jams. Look at the wear(picture) on my original post. Does that not indicate an extractor that is incorrectly tuned?

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I can not determine if your extractor is tuned properly by the picture you posted. I wouldn't rule out proper functionality of the extractor simply based upon the ware marks. Use the info that I gave you before about testing the extractor with a piece of brass to see if its set to the proper depth.

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CHA-LEE - The extractor will hold the casing. From the picture I posted it appears to me that the casing is hitting the extractor at the very top of the angle and sometimes beyond. You mention "failure to eject" does that mean that the casing remains in the chamber or the casing just dribbles out?

Edited by texarkana
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CHA-LEE - The extractor will hold the casing. From the picture I posted it appears to me that the casing is hitting the extractor at the very top of the angle and sometimes beyond. You mention "failure to eject" does that mean that the casing remains in the chamber or the casing just dribbles out?

if the brass is dribbling out then your extractor is functioning correctly. If the brass was being left in the chamber then you would have an extractor issue. As I said in my initial post, I think you have an ejector issue. The ejector prong is either damaged or too short. The only other possible cause to dribbling brass is some kind of physical obstruction. For example, the brass could be hitting the C-More mount or something like that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Problem solved---I ordered and replaced the extractor. I made sure the little "nub" that Henning says should be .045 was exactly that. A certain gunsmith that tuned mine had it at .036. Apparently that small difference can make cause problems. Some gunsmiths are just like some mechanics, they don't know __t. If you "tinker" with one of these race guns for a while you learn how to fix the problems. Thanks to all who commented.

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