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1050 and Autodrive help pls


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Proud new owner of a Autodrive - however ready to smash it lol

Running on a RL 1050 - Setup as per the instructions, just touching both stops but when running it appears as if the press is overcamming and the end of the stroke and the unit binds and slips or springs back over centre if you know what I mean.

With the standard handle on the machine, it runs from stop to stop without a hickup

The manual says to run in reverse on a RL which I presume is anti clockwise however in this direction the arm touches the main shaft and it stalls.

I have adjusted everything on the unit and I can get it to run smooth without the overcam as such if set to about 1/2" off bottom stop

Had a look at a few vids on youtube of them and most have a different stub between the arm and the press shaft - not sure if mine is new or old type but its a small straight one as opposed to a long bent

I'm in New Zealand and the time diff makes it hard to ring Poss Warren but I will try to do so over the next few days, in the mean time anyone here able to give me some setup tips?

Thanks

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Spanners,

The PW unit was designed to run with the Super 1050, not the RL. They decided, apparently, to retrofit it for the RL, and it doesn't work well in my experience.

I have broken two arms, right at the thread area, I have a friend that has broken at least one. They are happy to sell you new arms but don't know why it broke....

I know personally of 5 arms that have broken with RL 1050s.

The reason for this is that the stroke of the machine is 180 degrees, versus 166 or so for the other 1050 unit.

There is really no way to adjust it so it is super smooth. We have tried everything.

My machinist gave up on the PW unit and converted my RL unit to a rotary drive with a chain so it is now smooth.

Don't have fits of rage, anger and depression because you cannot adjust it so it works like it is supposed to.

DISCLAIMER. this is my experience and the experience of two other experienced loaders, yours may vary....

I like most of the the PW equipment, but this ain't one of them.....

DougC

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I'm correct in my hunch - rung PW and talked to them about it - The unti I have is for a Super 1050, and I have a RL machine :(

Stub arm diff and mounting of motor lower on mine.

FARK! :angry2:

Will get in contact wiht the fella about the rotary conversion again I think

Edited by Spanners
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I have one of the RL1050 auto-drives and it's verrrrry finicky. If everything is adjusted perfectly it does ok. I think the main culprit is the shellplate return is so late on the RL. I keep pondering making a new cam arm similar to the one on the Super 1050 to change the timing but haven't yet.

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If your goal is to get it setup to make 300blk brass, you are in for a beating. Assuming you get the Auto drive working, your OAL will be all over the place.

You need to go rotary with a modified gear, like an egg. So it speeds up and slows down on the same stroke. That way it can slow down at the bottom of the stroke, replicating doing it by hand to get that perfect cut.

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Trimming brass is not the goal for the 1050 - Use my 650 for it and can knock out ~20/min which is more than fast enough for what I'm doing.

The 1050 is no faster and its purpose is for loading bulk ammo - bullet feeders on the way.

With the RL drive unit being the wrong one, I played around with the setup and got it setup for the bottom of the stroke for processing brass - de primign and swaging - it however cant be used for full strokes as there is not enough stoke in it for reliable indexing and the motor position is too low resulting in a camover situation.

Out of interest I chucked the trimmer on it and ran a 20 or so cases - dont know about your setup, but my cases ALL were within 0.0005 - i had to manually index thoguh due to above issues.

I run a hornady 270 sizing die with 223 expander in it in position one for depriming (I like the long tapered expander and guides well into the mount and as it also irons out any dinged case mouths - I tried a universal decapping die but it has no taper in it and would catch everyso often on case mouth and wreck the case for 223 - ok to be trimmed to 300 though) and and a random seating die in position 5 and with the maching just touching the stop set these dies to just touch the shell plate - removes any movement and variences in length.

Do the same thing on 650 - works like a champ.

These is no need to go rotary to eliminate length issues - timing is easiy changed via stub arm lengths if required - but its not required.

If anything a rotary coonversion is going to have issues with length as there is no posistive stops anywhere - the drive style relies on camming over - as thats exactly what it is - eccentric cam

Rotary conversion is a permanent mod also - as you have to cut the frame to remove the stops for clearance - something that i'm not that interested in doing as there is no going back to manual etc.

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On my rotary conversion I have all the parts and can convert it back to manual should I choose. There is no problem processing .223 brass, or any brass, for that matter. Once you set up the trim die it is set.

Understand if you are going to use any set up that is automated for loading, the brass needs to be processed for best results. Resized and trimmed brass runs through the machines like butter.

I have been fighting this stuff for about 2 years, so take it for what it is worth.

DougC

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Who does one contact for the rotary conversion? I watched the vidio and feel this is the best way to go. Is there a website?

Thanks

I pinged the guy via YouTube and he said he was swamped doing other stuff but would look into selling the parts.

It's more than just cutting the stops off the big end of the crank and going to town.

He also said it was a part-swap to go back to normal, although there were some permanent frame alterations involved.

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As Roy stated, the conversion required the rear of the frame to be altered, meaning you have to ship the lower unit to the machinist for the conversion. He does alter the parts so it goes back together, and I have a box of parts to convert it back to stock machine if I want to.

He is taking orders right now, and is really busy.

Best thing to do is contact him directly and let him tell you his schedule is.

DougC

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How does one get in touch with the "machinist?" does he have an e-maiol address or phone number?

Thanks

As Roy stated, the conversion required the rear of the frame to be altered, meaning you have to ship the lower unit to the machinist for the conversion. He does alter the parts so it goes back together, and I have a box of parts to convert it back to stock machine if I want to.

He is taking orders right now, and is really busy.

Best thing to do is contact him directly and let him tell you his schedule is.

DougC

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Msg 'cforcht' on youtube

Its ~$80 in parts, 2 hours on lathe and the stops cut off the press- no rocket science involved.

I considered doing it to my RL but will sell the machine as I already have 4 other dillons in use and its realistically surplus as i have no needs for 2 driven presses.

I picked up a Super and fitted the drive I have - had it adjusted properly in about 5 minutes and it runs like clockwork

The only mod I'll make will be to remove the rose joint on the drive end of the rod and replace it with a solid bushed link to emilinate any possibility for lateral movement in the arm between the 2 rosejoints.

The only thing I could think of to make setup easier would be if the drive end adjustment was setup like an alternator on a car, however it'd only save a couple minutes work.

The rotary is a $500 fix for a problem in setup IMO, it also has an issue of dwell timing which may or may not pose an issue with loading cases like 223 with a full load of stick powder.

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