benos Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 Since this is a never ending issue, and I get this topic on the phone and in email all the time, I thought I'd pin this thread with some links. If anyone finds other links with informative info on this issue, please post the link(s) in this thread and I'll move them into this post. EGW U-Die: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65410 Glocked Brass: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131836 GrumpyOne's search post (with lots of links) in the above thread: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131836&view=findpost&p=1505456 Redding GRx Die http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81646 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 Redding GRx http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81646 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roostershooter Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Redding GRx http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81646 Looking through the posts I don't see mention of the Lee Bulge Buster. It does the same thing for a more economical price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Case-Pro, lot easier than the GR-X or Lee set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cundiff5535 Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 Case pro=$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryt Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I have a case pro for 9, 40 and 45. $20 per 1000 rounds and you pay shipping. Med. Flat rate box runs about $11 each way. Case pro=$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhyrlik Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 I have the GRX and its stupid easy. Better yet, it detects incipient casehead seperation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GM2B Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 Lee bulge buster works for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdogg Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Ahhh...thank you for this sticky. Great options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtuns Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Lee bulge buster works for me! Me to I pay My kid to run My brass through it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baer45 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I have a Case Pro but after getting a Lee die at my first station on the 550, I don't use it anymore for my 40 Glocked brass, but I still use the Case pro for 45acp on my 1050...probably should get amLee die in 45.... Seems to work fine.. Marine Corp Colonial Shooting Academy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naka16 Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 +1 on the bulge buster, but I use it on the completed rounds. Takes a little extra time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiddler Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 Lee's instruction sheet states "DO NOT use the Bulge Buster Kit to reload for the 40 S&W Glock or similar guns with chambers that do not fully support the cartridge due to the intrusion of the feed ramp." Just sayin'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAM40A1 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 That sounds like CYA lawyer talk to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAM40A1 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I've recently started loading .40 for a Glock 24 and haven't had an issue with chambering. I bought a couple thousand once fired cases from the classifieds here and they have the Glock bulge. I assume that if I size them and have no issues with chambering in my Glock, then I don't need to run them through the bulge buster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 True. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdinga Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 (edited) I must have missed an important chapter. Been Loading for Glock 9mm's for a long time. I just feed the brass to the Dillon and then feed it to the Glock. Never had a problem with dreaded bulged brass. My loads are mild 147 coated lead..and life is simple. Edited July 26, 2014 by rdinga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 I must have missed an important chapter. Been Loading for Glock 9mm's for a long time. I just feed the brass to the Dillon and then feed it to the Glock. Never had a problem with dreaded bulged brass. My loads are mild 147 coated lead..and life is simple. You aren't missing anything, that is because it isn't a 9mm issue (or a .380, or a .45 acp, or a 10mm, or a .357 or a 45 GAP issue). It only truly applies to .40 S&W and only certain generations of 40 S&W Glocks which had a poorly supported chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCDRJGB Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 I agree w/ @fiddler. 40 s&w brass is so cheap and easy to get that i have a hard time justifying the use of previously bulged brass in any of my guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaskillo Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Once you size your brass on a "push thru" sizer you will realize how smooth your reloading setup will run! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstagn Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 New to 40 reloading. Have some from a friend. Half of the rounds looked slight bulged near the bottom, should I just discard? Is this the infamous glock bulge? Can I remove the bulge at the first station (dillion 650) ? Hate to run thru the round again after its finished. I understand that removing the bulge shortens brass life, and how do you tell the end is near before reloading. Have not bought any 40 cal. dies yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Steele Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 This thread has the info you need. Get a Udie from EGW and put in station 1 of your 650 and you are done. As far as brass life, I reload till it splits at the case mouth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowfin Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 I agree w/ @fiddler. 40 s&w brass is so cheap and easy to get that i have a hard time justifying the use of previously bulged brass in any of my guns. 40 brass may be easy to get now, but in hard times last year it wasn't. If I hadn't had a Bulge Buster last year I wouldn't have had ammo to shoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grouptherapy Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 What I look for is a "smile". If it looks blistered in a bottom part of the 40 case I toss it. If it looks a little swelled at the bottom it gets the bulge buster. With that said I bust all of my 40 rounds clean and empty then load. No problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPostman Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Lee bulge buster! Nuff said! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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