Par timer End beep

[mcoliver]

Ok, totally noobie question.

When I set a par time in my timer for 0.8 sec, I know the start beep, well, sounds at the start of the clock, runs about so-so milliseconds, right? On the other hand, when does the end beep sound? When the clock reaches 0.8 or does it sound sooner and end at 0.8, taking into acount the time it was actually beeping?

Meaning, if I draw, I should be dropping the hammer before the sound of the end beep? Because I'm totally fooling myself believing I had a 0.8 draw even when the hammer drops before the end beep stops? That being the case, my actual draw may have been 0.8 plus the amount of time of the beep?

Dang! I feel like an idiot asking this...

[Nik Habicht]

MC,

The rule book tells us that we have to allow .3 seconds over par on fixed time stages, i.e. if it's a five second stage, a 5.30 shot is legal, a 5.31 shot is overtime. I'm guessing that it's based on the buzzer sounding from 0.00 to 0.30 for the start and from 5.00 to 5.30 for the stop beep on most timers....

[Skywalker]

Looks like someone is experimenting with SA dryfire book...

My guess is (according to my pact Club II timer):

Par time set to 1.2 sec.

t=0: beep start.

t=0 + 0.5: sec beep end.

t=1.2 sec: beep start.

t=1.7 sec. beep end.

So, to be inside the par time, you have to end your action before the beep starts.

Nik, in the IPSC rulebook 2004 the .3secs over par time is no more listed: after par time you're toasted...

[Steve Anderson]

Mcoliver,

Skywalker is correct, the beginning of the second tone is your time limit.

Be careful of rushing the action to beat the par, thus limiting visual input. That's very counter productive.

Good luck,

SA

[Flexmoney]

Steve,

Would it be better to ease up on the time...to make sure the action is performed correctly?

[mcoliver]

Thanks for the info guys.

Be careful of rushing the action to beat the par, thus limiting visual input. That's very counter productive.

Yeah, something just hit me while trying to reconcile dry fire draw times with live fire. It became apparent there's something wrong getting 0.6 (par time) draws in dry fire but for the life of me can't get it down to 0.7 without losing visual input in live fire. Turns out I'm dropping my hammer after the start of the end beep.

Looks like someone is experimenting with SA dryfire book...

Soon, I'll be getting this, too. If only I had known about it when I asked my sis-in-law to get me one of the 2003 Nats DVD. Just plain sucks to be so far away with no access to paypal.

[Duane Thomas]

Would it be better to ease up on the time...to make sure the action is performed correctly?

The idea behind descending par time dry fire (and I may well be repeating what everyone already knows) is to start with a time limit for a particular technique (say, two seconds for the draw) at which you can easily perform the technique with extreme attention to technical correctness. Do that for awhile, then begin dropping the time while maintaining technical correctness. You'll find, as you drop the time, you begin "rounding off the edges" but still performing the technique correctly.