Most desired S&W 66

[Ryan N]

I am interested in getting a 66 for IDPA. This will mainly be for SSR, but I want to be able to occationally shoot 357mag. What are the desired "dash numbers" for the 66? I am pretty new to revolvers and don't really know all of the terms(yoke retention system, floating hand, etc). Heres the info I have come accross:

66 (1970): Stamping of each model.

66-1 (1977): Changed the gas ring from the yoke to the cylinder.

66-2 (1982): Eliminated pinned and recessed, slightly lengthened cylinder.

66-3 (1986): New yoke retention system/radius stud package/hammer nose bushing/floating hand.

66-4 (1994): Change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, introduce Hogue grips, change extractor.

66-5 (1998): Change in frame design: eliminate cylinder stop stud/eliminate serrated tangs/change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin/change internal lockwork.

66-6 (2002): Introduced internal lock.

66-7 (?): Two piece barrel and internal lock,

Thanks for your input.

[cuzinvinny]

There are those people who will tell you the older versions are better, because they received more had fitting. Others will tell you the newer versions are better since each engineering change represents an improvement in the guns design. Only you can decide if one version is better than the other for your application. When I was in the market for a 66, I was hoping to get a 66-5, which I did. To my way of thinking, I wanted a version which did not have the recessed cylinder, since I did not want a round not dropping into the counter bore properly, thereby slowing down my already timed with an egg timer, reload. More importantly, I wanted the dash 5 because it comes with a black front sight blade (with the red insert), which is easier for my old eyes to see as opposed to the stainless front sight. I also chose the dash 5 because the front sight is pinned so that I can easily replace the current blade with a fibre optic version should I choose. The pin on the older versions is more difficult for the do it yourself gunsmith to remove. Lastly, I prefer Smith & Wesson revolvers without the internal lock, only because there is less of a market, for those guns with the internal lock, should I decide to sell the gun.

[71Commander]

66-6 (2002): Introduced internal lock.

It all makes sense now.

[MrBorland]

I'm with cuzinvinny - I'd prefer the newer ones for competition, The 66-5 is my preference (I have one). Frame-mounted firing pin, no lock, no recessed chambers. Among those 3, the lock is the least of my concerns (my primary SSR gun is lock-equipped), and I'd consider a 66-6 if I found a nice one. But I'm a fan of über-light hammers on a DAO revolver, and a pre-lock hammer can be lightened further (doesn't need to retain the locking flag), the nod goes to the 66-5.

Tom

[Ryan N]

Thanks guys. Thats a big help.

To my way of thinking, I wanted a version which did not have the recessed cylinder, since I did not want a round not dropping into the counter bore properly, thereby slowing down my already timed with an egg timer, reload.

What is the recessed cylinder?

[cuzinvinny]

The model 66 no dash and the 66-1 had cylinders where the chambers were counter bored so that the rim of the case is flush with the back of the cylinder. If you follow this link, the 5th thread down will have a picture of both the recessed and non-recessed cylinders.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/130651-recessed-non-recessed-cylinders.html

Edited July 10, 2011 by cuzinvinny

[Shooting4life]

-5 is the way to go. Plus the p&r usually run a premium with most s&w buyers.

[Ryan N]

The model 66 no dash and the 66-1 had cylinders where the chambers were counter bored so that the rim of the case is flush with the back of the cylinder. If you follow this link, the 5th thread down will have a picture of both the recessed and non-recessed cylinders.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/130651-recessed-non-recessed-cylinders.html

Now I see. Thanks a bunch.

[astephenson]

66-6 (2002): Introduced internal lock.

It all makes sense now.

HAHAHA. Nice catch.

[ChipperBoy]

I just bought a Smith & Weston 357 Magnum model 66-2   Trying to find out how old it is. Some letters on it are R5. 

34X28. And last AUS3709. Not sure which is serial number. 

[FWSixgunner]

For your purposes I’d go with the current 66-8 for a couple of reasons:

Easily replaceable front sight. Older guns have an integral front sight and that 1/8” ramp just about completely fills the notch. Later versions are pinned and can be replaced.

66-3 (integral)



66-6 pinned. Replaced with Protocall Design 1/10” fiber optic post. Far easier to pick up quickly, especially shooting an indoor IDPA match.



The second reason is your desire to shoot magnums.

The older K-frames had a cut at the bottom of the forcing cone and was notorious for splitting with prolonged use of magnum ammo.

Look at the flat spot at the bottom of the forcing cone from this 66-3:



Here’s a 66-7, where the 2-piece barrel was introduced (at least on the M-66). There’s no flat at the bottom.



I haven’t examined a 66-8 yet, but I think the forcing cone might be even thicker.

Yes, I know, both of these guns need to be cleaned.

I love M-66s and think they’re a better choice for IDPA than the 686.

[FWSixgunner]

I just bought a Smith & Weston 357 Magnum model 66-2   Trying to find out how old it is. Some letters on it are R5. 
34X28. And last AUS3709. Not sure which is serial number. 

The second number is the SN and the AUS prefix dates it probably about ‘84-‘86.

[eggman]

For IDPA revolver competition I favor about any 66 over the 686 and of the 66's I prefer the 66-5 mainly because it is still pre-lock and has a pinned front sight . I do have a 66-2 that saw a lot of use before I bought it that is really sweet after Joe at Mojo Custom did his magic and also converting it's orange insert  front sight to a pinned FS . It has the lightest trigger of all my 66's and is the only 66 I have that doesn't have the frame mounted firing pin. I had a 66 no-dash and didn't like the recessed cylinder.

[Gregg K]

I had always preferred the 66-5 to get the frame mounted firing pin and no lock. I found a great deal on a 66-7 and removed the lock and put in one of those plugs that a guy on the S&W forum was selling. The 66-7 turned out to be the most accurate of all my 66's and turned out to be my favorite. The old school S&W ladies hate the tension barrels and locks but it worked the best for me and that's all I care about for a competition gun.