Dan H. Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 Could someone explain the wooden block between the mags. What size? Are both mags the same hieght or do you stagger them? Looks like the spare mag is close to the ejection port. Will they still fit in a mag pouch? Pros, Cons etc. thanks Dan H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Run n Gun Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 Dan, I don’t know the answer to your question about how big to make the block of wood, however, many companies make “mag couplers” that do the same thing without the messy tape. Here's just one place to find them, I’ve even seen ones that couple THREE mags together! While if somebody had one I’d give it a try, I don’t think I’d like the extra weight and changing balance point enough to go out and buy one. Good luck. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benny hill Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 Been useing this for year's. 1"x1" by 2 1/2 long. Duct tape round & round then over & over. Light weight & slim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 How in the world do you keep the first round of the mag NOT in the mag well from working it's way partway out making the reload slow or impossible? I took my coupler apart after it did that a couple of time, at the most in-opportune moment... JJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Posted April 25, 2004 Share Posted April 25, 2004 I haven't used a block & tape, but the strap-on variety work just as well. The block & tape would work just as well, and cost less too. It would just be a little more messy if you try to remove it. One thing to make sure of is to check out the mags after clamping them together to be sure they still function. I imagine it's possible to squeeze them too much and make them unreliable. I stagger mine by about 1". You want to stagger them enough that the right mag won't interfer with your ejection port cover when the left mag in installed. See below. You generally want to start with the right mag in first. This way, when you change mags it's not in the way of the bolt-release button, as it is here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benny hill Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 The way you keep the top round on the x-tra mag from moveing forward is to take out the recoil by useing my comp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gun Geek Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 Well said, Benny! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 I also encountered the problem of the top round walking forward. What I did was change my reload procedure slightly. Instead of simply droppig the mag, shifting over and slamming it back straight up, I slightly rock it to cam the top round back. The front edge of the mag goes in first, at a slight angle. Then I raise/pivot the rear up and in line, then insert. Cams the top round back. If the top round hasn't shifted forward, it is still a good way to get the mag indexed before running it home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvc40jim Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 If you try a "wedge" shape instead of a block of wood the mags will offset at an angle and it makes reloads easier for me anyway. Don't use "duct" tape, that would be tacky. Instead I recommend "Hundred Mile an hour" tape. Available in a variety of colors, rumor has it the military used it to patch bullet holes in planes before the jet age. You can find it in the "duct tape" section of any hardware store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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