50cal Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 I got tired of those poor puny lock rings that come with dillons dies (sheesh). Rings with a set screws are only marginally better. Cross bolt lock rings are the only way to go for me. Hornady makes some and so does Forster. The Forster parts can be found at Grafs (part no. FR01132112 pack of 12 for $30). These are them. Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tightloop Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 Looking at your pic, there isn't much room between the locking nuts, is there? In fact looks like they are touching... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50cal Posted April 24, 2004 Author Share Posted April 24, 2004 Nope. Each and everyone are within tolerance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 The reason Dillon doesn't use a clamping die lock ring is that unless you tighten a die lock ring under a load( with a case up in the die), the die will tend to tip slightly in the threads, due to the tolerances between the male and female threads. I don't understand what a larger diameter die lock ring provides. Our one inch die lock ring provides more than sufficient surface to lock a die in position, yet provides more room to tighten/loosen a die should adjustment be necessary after the initial dies settings are made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50cal Posted April 24, 2004 Author Share Posted April 24, 2004 The cross bolt locking rings from Hornady are not as wide and they have flattened side for a wrench. They weren't available so I ordered Forsters I like them, they are aluminum and the width makes them easy to work with and tighten by hand. Incidently, not having to get a wrench in there is a Godsend and actually makes it easier to adjust which far outweighs the having more "room to work with" Dillon, your hardware is premium but those lock rings are pathetic. They do move and they do slip. This is likely due to the "tolerances between the threads" as you put it. I am sorry to disagree with you. The movement that the Dillon rings allow is noticeable when "belling" the case and when seating. The added movemnet of the powder measure adds to the problem. After thousands of rounds I still yet to need to adjust the Dies in the toolhead. With the Dillon provided rings this is simply NOT the case. Also, once the ring is clamped on the die I can remove the die (for cleaning or inspection - like your "New Style" dies but I can take it out of the toolhead, a bonus.) and replace it at the exact position. This is only my opinion. I love my press. There is no need to be defensive, I just found something that makes makes my press even more enjoyable. While your here, $30 for the Bullet tray is absurd and Akro bins are 0.99 ea. Also, the AL. roller handle is awsome and worth double AND, I don't care what anybody says, The Dillon crimp die is better than the Lee crimp by a long shot. Take care and thanks for the comments, Mike ps. I have no idea if those Forster rings will fit a 1050 or 650 press. Is the spacing between the holes the same in those two presses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 A locking bolt is not necessary if you plan on leaving the dies set up in the toolhead. I've read here and other places that it's not a bad idea to locktite (blue-removable) your dies into the toolhead. Otherwise they can loosen up after several thousand rounds. This is true with the Dillon lock nuts, or any other lock nut. The locking bolt won't effect this. That is there to keep the nut at the same location on your die (keep your die setting from changing) when you remove it from the toolhead/press. The calibers I load a lot get set up once in the toolhead and then the dies aren't ever removed. (the Dillon dies are great for cleaning, and keeping your settings) The powder and seating depth get adjusted, but the dies stay in. It's worth it to me to pay for another toolhead setup rather than change dies and settings all the time. The single-stage press is another matter. I use that for calibers I don't reload all that much. There it is essential to have some kind of locking ring on the die so your settings don't change. I was somewhat suprised after first looking at them, but the Lee nut stays put very well. It simply uses a rubber O-ring and is very effective. The RCBS is my least favorite. It threads a brass allen head bolt straight into the die threads. The brass allen socket tends to strip out, and it is sometimes difficult to screw it in tight enough to keep the nut in place on the die. I like Horniday's nut the best. It has a split nut with a cross bolt, much like the Forsters shown. But I like the flats that give the option to use a wrench on the Horniday's, which won't work on the Forsters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gun Geek Posted April 25, 2004 Share Posted April 25, 2004 Garrett: You didn't get the e-mail about the RCBS dies! Slice open a shotgun shell - 5, 6, or 7 shot. Take the brass screw out of the lock ring. Drop a piece of lead shot into the hole and replace the screw. Works very well. To me the Lee rings are OK, but not great. The little o-ring keeps the ring from turning but you can easily screw up the setting when loosening the ring. The ring wll turn with out turning the die, so the next time you put the die in, it is a little deeper. Also, on my 650 the Lee rings are thick enough that they won't allow the die to adjust down far enough. I hear of people putting the ring on the bottom of the tool head. I guess this works, but I just switch to the Dillon rings and no more problems. I don't use locktite (oops, must protect the trademark) thread locker because I load a couple of different bullet styles in most calibers. I did make a "proto-type" of each style I load regularly so that I adjusting the dies are easy. I used epoxy to cement the bullet in the case so that I don't accidentally seat the prototype deeper. I also have a couple of marks scribed on the side so that I can see if the bullet has moved (scribe at an angle so that you can see a discontinuity in the line). Geek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronson7 Posted April 28, 2004 Share Posted April 28, 2004 After fiddling with different syles of lockrings, your included, to me there has been absolutely nothing easier/better than Dillons one inch lockuts in conjunction with their one inch wrench. The angle and profile on the wrench is absolutely perfect. I really don't understand what you're accomplishing, but hey, if works for you. Bronson7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Kicking up this old thread as it seems to fit best here... I had a bit of an issue with an after market tool-head on my 650 and Lee dies. Basically, I need a skinnier locking ring if I have any hope of getting that tool head to work with my dies. Click to see other thread for details. I was wondering if folks might post pictures and/or measurements of the various locking rings from different makers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 The old thread you popped up is giving me fits can't reply on it. Here's numbers I got lock ring / height / diameter at biggest point Redding .310/1.270 (die lock ring) Redding .190/1.270 (powder meas ring, no set screw) Sinclair .315/1.375 Dillon .250/1.130 (1" wrench) Dillon .250/1.300 (1 1/8" wrench) Hornady .315/1.315 (new style with 2 wrench flats) Lee o-ring 3.15/1.280 (probably 20 years old) Also I have seen these in a store and my help solve your problem.I'm sure modification necessary but seem to be fairly small diameter from what I remember. http://www.hornady.c...hing-2-Per-Pkg/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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