sauza45 Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 I am switching to open and I load on a 650 now. I have read the 650 vs 1050 threads and was wondering if the 1050 spills powder when the shell plate rotates like you get with the 650. I have learned to put my finger on the case as it rotates to keep the spilling down. I will be loading N105 in 38sc and at about 10 gr the case is pretty full. I dont load alot, I only load 40 and 45 now but will soon be loading 38sc when my new open gun get built. Should I upgrade to the 1050 and sell the 650 or just load on the 650? I know keep both but I dont have a lot of romm so I cant have 2 reloaders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgary Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 I am switching to open and I load on a 650 now. I have read the 650 vs 1050 threads and was wondering if the 1050 spills powder when the shell plate rotates like you get with the 650. I have learned to put my finger on the case as it rotates to keep the spilling down. I will be loading N105 in 38sc and at about 10 gr the case is pretty full. I dont load alot, I only load 40 and 45 now but will soon be loading 38sc when my new open gun get built. Should I upgrade to the 1050 and sell the 650 or just load on the 650? I know keep both but I dont have a lot of romm so I cant have 2 reloaders It can, not as dramatically as the 650, but it can. One thing you learn with the 1050, though, is that it really likes a smooth, consistent stroke. That largely mitigates the propensity of the powder to jump out of the case, among other things. If you load several calibers, one thing to think about is that caliber conversion on the 1050 is more work. When I got mine, I kept a 650 too... I load 9mm (several different flavors: major, production, steel...) on the 1050, and everything else (40, 45, 223) gets a quick-change toolhead on the 650. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 If you do the 2 or 3 mods to the 650, it REALLY reduces the powder slop as well. Bending the loaded round ejector wire and cutting a coil off the the spring under the round indexing ball did wonders for my press. I just loaded 500 rounds of .40 using Clays (one of the worst for slopping out) and only had about 20 flakes total come out. It used to spill 5% or more making clean-up necessary every 50 rounds. One of those things that make you go "huh", why does it not just come that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 I have both a 1050 and a 650 I would never let go of my 650 = sell a gun OK sell the 650 Never I like the 1050 but when is acts like a Bitch some times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Also check the thread on the "fix for the snapping Shellplate on the 650." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emerson Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 (edited) I will be loading N105 in 38sc and at about 10 gr the case is pretty full. That load does fill the case almost up, but I have ran that same load on my 1050 with little powder spillage. However as has been mentioned, the 1050 needs a smooth consistent stroke. Edited May 21, 2011 by Emerson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noylj Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 I would say that any progressive with auto-index will throw some powder out occasionally. I get very little from my 1050s. Possibly because the only thing it is doing when the ram/dies go up is index. (Of course, if it half indexed up and half indexed down, there would be even propensity to throw out powder. With the 1050, station 5 is the powder dispensing station, station 6 is the powder check station, station 7 is bullet seating and station 8 is crimp. If is awkward to try to reach around the press to put your finger on the case mouth from station 5 to 6, so I make the upstroke smooth so there are no jolts. Personally, the only "problems" with caliber conversion are the cost and switching out the primer system from large to small (or vice versa). I went through all my calibers that I reload and determined which parts were duplicates and, where possible, just ordered the one or two parts I needed for a specific caliber (for instance, 9x19, 9x21, and .38 Super all use the exact same parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gohuskers Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 Hardly see any spillage of powder or "shell plate snap" on my 1050 so i don't think the two are all that comparable. And I agree with what's been said, when the 1050 acts up it's really frustrating. The 650 just seems to go go go. But I still love my 1050! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sauza45 Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 Thanks for all the help. I did the mods to the 650 for powder spillage and they did help. I also got into the habit of putting my finger on the case to slow the index down. If I sell the 650 any idea of shipping, pain in the butt or not to bad. I have all the acc. for it, so I will need others boxes to ship along with the factory box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjb45 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 I do caliber conversions on the 1050 all the time. It was a pain at first. Now I just take my time. I have a couple different tool heads etc. It is really a fairly straight forward process once you do it once or twice. And yes, my 1050 gets bitchy sometimes. I notice the differences in MagTech and Wolf primers but for the most part Federal and Winchester primers give me the least amount of problems. Buy a 1050! I will be converting mine over to 38SC as soon as I load another 4000 rounds of 40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sauza45 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 I do caliber conversions on the 1050 all the time. It was a pain at first. Now I just take my time. I have a couple different tool heads etc. It is really a fairly straight forward process once you do it once or twice. And yes, my 1050 gets bitchy sometimes. I notice the differences in MagTech and Wolf primers but for the most part Federal and Winchester primers give me the least amount of problems. Buy a 1050! I will be converting mine over to 38SC as soon as I load another 4000 rounds of 40. Thanks for you help I think I will sell the 650 and get a 1050. A couple of the people I shoot with have 1050 and they say upgrade to the 1050 and later you can get a bullet feeder for the 1050 and be set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sauza45 Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 I have orderd the Super 1050 from Brian. Great service, it will be here next week so I can get started. Now I have an itch for a bullet feeder, and it seems if I get one the best on eis the MR Bullet Feeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 I have learned to put my finger on the case as it rotates to keep the spilling down. It is far better, far more efficient, to cover the case with the bullet. I always meet the case with a new bullet between the powder stage and the seating die, about half-way, it goes naturally, saves time, and TOTALLY eliminates any spillage. As the case makes it to the seater position, it is already covered, so at this point I just push the bullet slightly to complete its pisitioning. Once you learn that motion it goes subconsciously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgary Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 I have learned to put my finger on the case as it rotates to keep the spilling down. It is far better, far more efficient, to cover the case with the bullet. I always meet the case with a new bullet between the powder stage and the seating die, about half-way, it goes naturally, saves time, and TOTALLY eliminates any spillage. As the case makes it to the seater position, it is already covered, so at this point I just push the bullet slightly to complete its pisitioning. Once you learn that motion it goes subconsciously. +1 ... with the added benefit that you are *far* less likely to squish a finger in the press if your timing is a little off (don't ask how I know that...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TruStreet Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Thanks for all the help. I did the mods to the 650 for powder spillage and they did help. I also got into the habit of putting my finger on the case to slow the index down. If I sell the 650 any idea of shipping, pain in the butt or not to bad. I have all the acc. for it, so I will need others boxes to ship along with the factory box. When I shipped my 650 to Dillon for Maint it cost me $24.00 but that was last years pricing. YMMV Manny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quigley Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 In addition to what's been already mentioned...try lubing the bottom of the shell plate with Slide Glide. It slows down the tail end of the index down just enough to stop it snapping in to place. I started doing this and have hardly spilled a drop since (in Major 9 no less) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 In addition to what's been already mentioned...try lubing the bottom of the shell plate with Slide Glide. It slows down the tail end of the index down just enough to stop it snapping in to place. I started doing this and have hardly spilled a drop since (in Major 9 no less) I was also a big fan of that move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quigley Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) Its' uses are seemingly endless In addition to what's been already mentioned...try lubing the bottom of the shell plate with Slide Glide. It slows down the tail end of the index down just enough to stop it snapping in to place. I started doing this and have hardly spilled a drop since (in Major 9 no less) I was also a big fan of that move. Edited July 6, 2011 by Quigley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanners Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I got a shellplate bearing kit and the advance is supersmooth - not spilling, clicking into place etc - super sweet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quigley Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Is this aftermarket? I got a shellplate bearing kit and the advance is supersmooth - not spilling, clicking into place etc - super sweet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanners Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Is this aftermarket? I got a shellplate bearing kit and the advance is supersmooth - not spilling, clicking into place etc - super sweet Yip. Hit Factor is the company - sell on eBay etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1911 Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Don't go to Ebay when you can go direct. I just ordered mine. hitfactorshooting Hit Factor Shooting Supply LLC 3687 Knox Street Saint Joseph, MI 49085-0974 (269) 208-8952 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MI_Packer Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) Don't go to Ebay when you can go direct. I just ordered mine. hitfactorshooting Hit Factor Shooting Supply LLC 3687 Knox Street Saint Joseph, MI 49085-0974 (269) 208-8952 Removed to avoid CoC issues. Edited July 9, 2011 by MI_Packer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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