Flash Pan Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Howdy to all, I am just starting out shooting a wheelgun and I have been reading past post on this forum and I have a question regarding cutting down Comp III speedloaders. Since I am a newbie I don’t think it will make a whole lot of difference in my overall performance if I cut them down, but since I already had a problem with them in practice I thought I’d ask. How far can I cut the Comp III down before I can no longer load them by pressing them against the palm of my hand? Thanks, Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Sahlberg Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Do not cut them down, just use shorter ammo as it will load in faster and eject faster! I use 38 Colt Shorts and have mastered the reloads as they drop right in! Starline Brass, 130 gr .356 Montana Gold RN, Federal 100 primer, 4.6 gr of Universal Clays, at 1.100" OAL with a tight crimp is 1100fps in a 5" bbl and very accurate. I can shoot 15 stages and not have to clean or brush my cylinder even once! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 I don't have a pic to show, but I cut mine down by about half. Not as aggressive as some I've seen. I load mine without loading blocks, but others can have trouble with it. Within a range, it's likely individual. Cut them down like Bubbers, and I think it's a given you'll be using a loading block. just use shorter ammo as it will load in faster and eject faster! I use 38 Colt Shorts and have mastered the reloads as they drop right in! If one is planning on shooting IDPA, be aware that cutting brass, or using .38SC or .38LC in a .38/.357mag isn't IDPA-legal. Cutting the speedloader helps the rounds clear the speedloader easier once they're released into the cylinder. I'm not clear how using short rounds does the same thing, since, when shorter rounds are released from a speedloader, the base of the round still has to clear just as much speedloader body as a standard round. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slflr Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 I don't have a pic to show, but I cut mine down by about half. Not as aggressive as some I've seen. I load mine without loading blocks, but others can have trouble with it. Within a range, it's likely individual. Cut them down like Bubbers, and I think it's a given you'll be using a loading block. just use shorter ammo as it will load in faster and eject faster! I use 38 Colt Shorts and have mastered the reloads as they drop right in! If one is planning on shooting IDPA, be aware that cutting brass, or using .38SC or .38LC in a .38/.357mag isn't IDPA-legal. Cutting the speedloader helps the rounds clear the speedloader easier once they're released into the cylinder. I'm not clear how using short rounds does the same thing, since, when shorter rounds are released from a speedloader, the base of the round still has to clear just as much speedloader body as a standard round. Tom This should be required reading Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 I don't have a pic to show, but I cut mine down by about half. Not as aggressive as some I've seen. I load mine without loading blocks, but others can have trouble with it. Within a range, it's likely individual. Cut them down like Bubbers, and I think it's a given you'll be using a loading block. just use shorter ammo as it will load in faster and eject faster! I use 38 Colt Shorts and have mastered the reloads as they drop right in! If one is planning on shooting IDPA, be aware that cutting brass, or using .38SC or .38LC in a .38/.357mag isn't IDPA-legal. Cutting the speedloader helps the rounds clear the speedloader easier once they're released into the cylinder. I'm not clear how using short rounds does the same thing, since, when shorter rounds are released from a speedloader, the base of the round still has to clear just as much speedloader body as a standard round. Tom This should be required reading +1..........both for the history and the insight into a great guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Pan Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 Thank you all for your responses. I should have mentioned that I intend to start out in IDPA so I will be using 38 special. I guess I will trim the loaders bit and see if the problem with the cartridges being pulled out persists. If it does I'll trim off a bit more. Thanks for the Roger Smith link. That is a lot of good information. I’ve saved the link, I’m sure I will be referring back to it in the future. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Nesbitt Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 I cut mine down about half way or a little more. I can still load them without a block, but it's a little tricky. Here's another link on how to cut them down. http://www.coolcerts.com/IDPA/Modifying_Comp_III_Speedloaders.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bones Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) I start to have issues with loading and retention when the base is shorter that 0.300"/7.5mm - about even with the starred end of the ejector rod when the mechanism is at rest. Craig Math corrected Edited April 21, 2011 by Bones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Thank you all for your responses. I should have mentioned that I intend to start out in IDPA so I will be using 38 special. I guess I will trim the loaders bit and see if the problem with the cartridges being pulled out persists. If it does I'll trim off a bit more. Thanks for the Roger Smith link. That is a lot of good information. I’ve saved the link, I’m sure I will be referring back to it in the future. Dan Bubber is calling himself Roger Smith now? I never believed Roger Davis anyway. It's a witness protection thing, I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Here are some of mine. As mentioned earlier, they're cut down about halfway, just past the plunger, and I can still load them by hand, as I show in . BTW, using the cylinder to load the speedloader helps speed up dry fire practice, but it's most definitely not the recommended procedure at a match Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldfrank Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 I have not had the nerve to cut my Comp III's or Jetloaders yet but I know it would help as they do sometimes not want to fall off the cylinder. As far as the loading the speedloaders by hand, I would be lost without my simple little speedloader box at a match or at the range practicing. I made a newer one using the safariland loading block, cut in two and a plain old pistol case for K frames but I never took a picture. This was made with a Walmart tackle box and L frame loading blocks from Pistoleer websight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Pan Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 Thank you all so much. This is very helpful. And I am sorry for my misprint in one of my previous post; I want to thank Mr. Roger Davis (not Smith) for his very informative article. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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