Newb with reloading question

[bamf_shadow]

First off, let me say hello. I am new to this forum and to USPSA (first match with be in 4 weeks, can't wait). Anyways, here is my first question: How cost efficient is reloading? Right now I buy 1000rds quality American 9mm 115gr for $275 delivered. Can I save atleast $90-$100 per case by reloading? I have a Lee 4-hole turret press, Lee Auto-Primer, Lyman case trimmer, Frankford scale & bullet puller. As you can see I will still need a few things such as dies and a powder dispensor which I don't mind shelling out for. But if I can't get my costs under say $190 per thousand than it just doesn't seem worth the extra time or headaches. FWIW, I plan on using my S&W M&P Pro 9mm. Thanks for the input!

[Hi-Power Jack]

Bamf, depends on how you purchase your materials,

since you already have most of the equipment.

If you buy 100 - 500 bullets and 1000 primers at a time at

your local shop, with new brass which you fire one time,

and buy a 1 lb can of powder - you probably won't save anything.

If you buy in quantity - buy 3750 bullets from MG, an

8 lb can of powder, 10,000 primers and buy once fired

or range brass for $35/1,000, you can save yourself

a bunch - might cost you $7 - 8/box or $140 - 150/1,000.

And, you can save even more if you are willing to accept

the disadvantages of shooting lead bullets.

Plus, you can tailor your load and make it easier for

you to shoot rapidly (use heavier bullets and the right

powder) and probably more accurate for your gun than

what you're currently loading.

Whether that's worth the time is up to you - if you're

really busy and have no time to reload - it may not be

worth it. But, if you can devote 1-2 hours/week reloading,

there's quite an advantage to it.

Good luck.

Jack

[stringcheese]

Here is a cost analysis I wrote up on another forum.

http://www.czforumsite.info/index.php?topic=39131.0

[Sarge]

Welcome to the forums!

You will save about half depending how much bulk you are willing to buy. You will probably just shoot more though.

I load 9mm with MG bullets, and N320 for about $130 per thousand.

Edited April 12, 2011 by Kevin Sanders

[stringcheese]

My above analysis can be greatly reduced with the use of free brass.

[HS101]

The best advice is to learn to pick up brass... You will have a virtually unlimited source of "free" brass. You can often trade or sell the brass in the calibers that you do not shoot, and put that money towards bullets, primers or powder....

[RussellJohnson]

I buy bulk bullets from Montana Gold (115 grain) and bulk powder and bulk primers from Cabela's and reusing my brass I get my cost down to 130-140 a hundred plus loading the bullets yourself you can load to the powerfactor you desire, Good Luck

[MemphisMechanic]

I load 9mm:

Estimated potion of a jug of Solo1000 powder: $10

Black bullet international 130gr: $65ish

Wolf primers: $28

Brass is free, scavenged from range.

That's roughly $100 per thousand. But I bought huge lots of all of the above, early last year. Might cost substantially more, now.

130gr molys and 3.8gr Solo loaded to 1.120" run through an M&P like buttah.

[Red Ryder]

1. 2-3 reloading manuals

2. A case or 2 of Montana Gold bullets of your choice, 4 lb jug of Titegroup, 5000 pistol primers.

3. Hornady Lock N Load AP, Dillon 650 . Research in that order. Buy the one that fits your budget!

4. Redding Pro Dies where the seating and Taper crimp are separate (for 5 station presses Hornady AP or dillon 650).

5. Powder check die or Dillon powder check system.

6. EGW U die. A resizing/decapping die available at EGW gun works. Google "EGW gun" for the web site.

5. Digital Calipers.

6. Digital powder scale from Brian Enos.com.

7. Case gauge for your caliber.

8. Case tumbler and walnut or corn cob media.

9 "Hornady One Shot" spray can of case lube.

10. Several one gallon ziplock bags to store the range brass you pick up.

11. An old coffee can to put the screw up rounds in.

12. Bullet puller to recover your screw up round components.

13. Dillon primer flip tray. It is the best.

14. CED 2 Chronograph (200$) or Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph 119$

15. A good notebook.

16. The correct shell plate if it doesn't come with your press.

17. Primer pick up tubes, 2 each size

18. Several plastic ammo boxes to store your loaded rounds.

19. A reloading bench in a quiet place to spend many many hours.

20. A second job to afford all the above.

You will recoup your costs in 2 shooting years, less time if you shoot more. Then expect to save 50%.

[Kevin G.]

My brother loaded for the better part of his first season on the Lee classic turret press and kept the dough he was saving set aside. Once he had enough, he invested in a Dillon 550. We both load on that now, and are considering upgrading to the 650. In other words, The more money you "save" the more money you will "invest" in shooting.

It helps to get a group of shooting buddies together and organize a group buy on components if you can't afford to buy bulk just yet. You can get bulk prices without having to shell out the cash all at once.

Good luck with getting started. I was right there in the same shoes about a year ago. Once you shoot that first match there is no stopping. I shoot a M&P 9 Pro too. Good luck and stay safe.

[motosapiens]

If you buy 100 - 500 bullets and 1000 primers at a time at

your local shop, with new brass which you fire one time,

and buy a 1 lb can of powder - you probably won't save anything.

Well, firing new brass 1 time is just silly, so let's ignore that. He's paying $275/1000 now. I just got going, but here are my (rounded up) costs per 10000

9mm berrys 124 grn RN $25/250 at cabelas

wsp primers $28/1000 at sportsmans warehouse

n320 powder(the expensive stuff) $29/lb, so a little under $20 for 1000 bullets worth

brass is free and if one has been buying cases of cheap ammo, one hopefully has plenty of brass laying around.

So my costs are at $148/1000, and i could bring them down another $15 or so by getting the same bullets in 1000's from tjconevara (which I'll probably do now that I know they work well for me), or zeros in 3000's from czcustom.com, and save more by using cheaper powder if I was really stingy.

Of course, the OP could also save money by buying wwb or federal 115 fmjs from walmart at around $220/1000 including tax

IMHO a more important side benefit is that you will likely improve your shooting by going with a heavier bullet and faster powder loaded to safely above the power floor (assuming you are shooting production or something with a 130pf). The difference between a round optimized for target shooting in your gun and a generic manufactured round that has to cycle everyone's action and chamber in every gun is significant.

[rfwobbly]

IMHO a more important side benefit is that you will likely improve your shooting by going with a heavier bullet and faster powder loaded to safely above the power floor (assuming you are shooting production or something with a 130pf). The difference between a round optimized for target shooting in your gun and a generic manufactured round that has to cycle everyone's action and chamber in every gun is significant.

Exactly. That's the part the spreadsheets can't capture.

Not only is the cost of your ammo cut in half, but the ammo you make is optimized for accuracy in your gun. In other words, you're getting the world's most accurate ammo for your gun at 1/2 the cost.

[whistlepig]

You already have some equipment so it appears you are familiar with reloading...... If you enjoy it, it will be the way to go for all the reasons listed already. If you hated it, ask yourself if the reasons listed already are enough to make you do something you detest. Most of my fellow shooter reload, but we have two who refuse. They hate it..... They shop for deals and buy like you described. I follow them around and pick up their brass.