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Glock 34 Trigger Issue - Help!


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OK so I shoot production USPSA and SSP in IDPA with a Glock 34. To improve the trigger I added 4lb striker spring and 6 lb trigger spring. Kept everything else stock including 4.5 connector. Have to say, with this setup Looove this gun. Love love love this gun. That said, decided to try and "improve" on perfection once again so I added a 3.5 connector from the Glock store. Took it to a steel match this weekend and the gun starts to have a mind of its own. One pull...three shots! I think OK maybe it's me, the way resetting the trigger, maybe the return of the muzzle is pulling the trigger because i'm working the reset right away. I'm very careful next stage. Happens again! What??? Now, keep in mind, this gun has been rock solid reliable up until now. What did I do wrong? What can I do aside from switching back to the stock 4.5 connector?

Looking forward to this esteemed groups advise. Any thoughts?

Hope this is the right section to post this.

Edited by speedseeker
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OK so I shoot production USPSA and SSP in IDPA with a Glock 34. To improve the trigger I added 4lb striker spring and 6 lb trigger spring. Kept everything else stock including 4.5 connector. Have to say, with this setup Looove this gun. Love love love this gun. That said, decided to try and "improve" on perfection once again so I added a 3.5 connector from the Glock store. Took it to a steel match this weekend and the gun starts to have a mind of its own. One pull...three shots! I think OK maybe it's me, the way resetting the trigger, maybe the return of the muzzle is pulling the trigger because i'm working the reset right away. I'm very careful next stage. Happens again! What??? Now, keep in mind, this gun has been rock solid reliable up until now. What did I do wrong? What can I do aside from switching back to the stock 4.5 connector?

Looking forward to this esteemed groups advise. Any thoughts?

Hope this is the right section to post this.

It was fine until you changed the connector. Without getting in to the brand specific debate, some companies are not known for the high quality of their connector. I would try a different brand of "-" connector. I personally use Ghost Ultimate connectors in my guns.

How many rounds do you have through the gun and have you changed and/or polished any other internals? You may want to clean out the striker channel and all those parts if you haven't. Something could be blocking the striker from returning fully and causing a slam fire (ie. a piece or metal shaving for instance).

It's likely an engagement (connector/trigger bar) issue. If a new, quality connector doesn't solve the problem, replace trigger with trigger bar.

Edited by dsmw5142
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OK so I shoot production USPSA and SSP in IDPA with a Glock 34. To improve the trigger I added 4lb striker spring and 6 lb trigger spring. Kept everything else stock including 4.5 connector. Have to say, with this setup Looove this gun. Love love love this gun. That said, decided to try and "improve" on perfection once again so I added a 3.5 connector from the Glock store. Took it to a steel match this weekend and the gun starts to have a mind of its own. One pull...three shots! I think OK maybe it's me, the way resetting the trigger, maybe the return of the muzzle is pulling the trigger because i'm working the reset right away. I'm very careful next stage. Happens again! What??? Now, keep in mind, this gun has been rock solid reliable up until now. What did I do wrong? What can I do aside from switching back to the stock 4.5 connector?

Looking forward to this esteemed groups advise. Any thoughts?

Hope this is the right section to post this.

It was fine until you changed the connector. Without getting in to the brand specific debate, some companies are not known for the high quality of their connector. I would try a different brand of "-" connector. I personally use Ghost Ultimate connectors in my guns.

How many rounds do you have through the gun and have you changed and/or polished any other internals? You may want to clean out the striker channel and all those parts if you haven't. Something could be blocking the striker from returning fully and causing a slam fire (ie. a piece or metal shaving for instance).

It's likely an engagement (connector/trigger bar) issue. If a new, quality connector doesn't solve the problem, replace trigger with trigger bar.

I have somewhere around 8,000 rounds through the gun and as mentioned the only changes made internally are the striker spring and trigger spring. No polishing to date. I'll try changing out the connector with a new Ghost. Thanks fr the tip. That said, you mentioned quality of manufacturer with regard to the connector, what exactly could they get wrong? I'm trying to envision what would be done wrong...I mean I'm not a metal smith but it seems to be a simple enough part to manufacture. Is it the angle? The material? Just curious what it might be.

Edited by speedseeker
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Evidently its harder than one migh imagine, some are vastly superior to others.

So this is a common problem experienced by others? And when they go with one of the quality brands the issue goes away? I hope I'm not beating this to death it's just I've never heard of this issue in a Glock before and am quite surprised.

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Well the obvious is the connector but I and many have had good luck with that connector. I also like the Scherer if you can find one.

Yes, I've heard great things about both Ghost and Scherer so I'll have to see what I can get as soon as possible. Classifier match coming up. Thing is I know its the connector because the gun has been so reliable. Is there any chance I did something during install? I recall having a hard time getting the trigger housing (specifically where the connector connects to it) back in the gun. It seemed as if it may have not been as flush sitting as the stock connector but I was able to get it in and the gun fired dry just fine so I went with it.

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I agree with your first response guy. Have you checked your striker to be sure it isn't binding or hung? It is a quick process to pull the slide off, hold it in your hand, depress the safety & shake the slide longways. If you don't hear the striker moving, you have a piece of trash or some other problem in the slide. If the striker is stuck in the out position when the slide shuts, it will fire & keep firing until whatever is binding it shakes loose.

MLM

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I agree with your first response guy. Have you checked your striker to be sure it isn't binding or hung? It is a quick process to pull the slide off, hold it in your hand, depress the safety & shake the slide longways. If you don't hear the striker moving, you have a piece of trash or some other problem in the slide. If the striker is stuck in the out position when the slide shuts, it will fire & keep firing until whatever is binding it shakes loose.

MLM

Wow. Great advice. I'll do this tonight and report back.

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OK so I took a look at things last night and the striker was moving back and forthe freely after depressing the plunger. Even still, I decided to detail strip the slide and take alook down in the firing pin chamber. I flashed a light down there and noticed there was some gunk down near the hole where the pin pokes out. I stuck a dry QTip in and swirled it around. I was amazed at what I found. Lots of flecks of brass. It took me maybe 6 QTips to get most of it out. Not sure if that would cause the auto fire that I experienced but I was amazed at how much was in there.

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Glad you cleaned it out. Be sure you do NOT oil that channel, at all, none, nada, DRY! If it is wet, it can make a hydraulic lock & won't allow the striker to hit the primers hard enough to set them off. It is possible that those pieces could have been causing the problem. Not likely but possible. It sure didn't hurt to clean that channel out, anyway.

I used to use Hoppes #9 to clean my glocks. That stuff will migrate into the channel & cause the aforementioned "lock", hahaha. That channel was so nasty when we went to take it apart, you almost couldn't get the striker out. It could very easily have caused multiple problems. Now it is Non chlorinated brake cleaner & then Light doses of remoil or slide glide, depending on which glock I'm cleaning.

MLM

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I hade the same problem with the same setup. The gun would double, you either have to remove the lonewolf connector or remove the 6# trigger spring.

For some reason the combo of both the 6# trigger spring and LW connector does this. Go back to factory trigger spring or factory connector. This would

only happen to me with the LW connector. I can run the 6# trigger spring and factory connector all day long with no issues.

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I hade the same problem with the same setup. The gun would double, you either have to remove the lonewolf connector or remove the 6# trigger spring.

For some reason the combo of both the 6# trigger spring and LW connector does this. Go back to factory trigger spring or factory connector. This would

only happen to me with the LW connector. I can run the 6# trigger spring and factory connector all day long with no issues.

Ya know what...that's exactly what I did. I quick swapped out the connector for the factory 4.5 connector and shot an IDPA match last night. NO issues at all. Rock solid reliable. Interesting that it is that precise combination. Either way, I think I'm going to try another brand 3.5 but have no qualms with keeping the 4.5 factory connector. Just swappign teh springs out makes a world of difference. Maybe I'll get a polish in one of these days and see if it smoothes things out some.

At the end of the day I'm finding I barely notice the difference. When I forst noticed the issue I was in the middle fo a falling steel match and had to swap out for a bone stock Glock 19 with the 5.5 connector and factory springs. When just playing with the trigger it feels so heavy but once i started shooting the steel, all of that went out the window. Ddidnt even feel it...not sure if it had an impact on my accuracy but it sure wasnt concious if it did.

Thanks to everyone for the help. A great group with loits of knowledge and I look forward to continuing my learning here.

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Glad you got it working. I would keep the factory connector. If you want to replace springs you can. I run a factory connector 15# recoil spring

6# trigger spring and wolff striker spring, runs perfect.

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