Pro-Pain Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Was debating trying to lighten my own striker. Anyone try this? Is it possible? Any do's/dont's? Anything you would recommend if you had to do it over again? (still debating whether to try or not, horror stories welcome) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calmwater Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Seems like there is some how to on this in Robin Taylor's book..... I will look when I find the book... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_Seehawer Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 If you have access to a mill, that would be much easier. Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro-Pain Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 Yeah, a lot of life's problems would be solved by precise, high powered machining tools. But I have a dremel, the gunsmith's best friend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredr Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 If you have access to a mill, that would be much easier. man, that's prime .sig line material right there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 It is much easier to do with a carbide bit and drill press. A Dremel is not the best tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob D Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 (edited) FWIW I've done two with a dremel. On one of them I removed way too much material near the foot of the striker and it broke after about 10k rounds. On the other, I removed much less metal, but I still get light strikes ocassionally with CCI primers. I think I'm going to order another one and try Joe's suggestion since we just got a new drill press at work. ETA: There's a thread around here somewhere with detailed pictures of the same cut I used. Just a big stripe down one side with the thick cutting wheel. It's ugly, but can work. Edited March 27, 2011 by Rob D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro-Pain Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 FWIW I've done two with a dremel. On one of them I removed way too much material near the foot of the striker and it broke after about 10k rounds. On the other, I removed much less metal, but I still get light strikes ocassionally with CCI primers. I think I'm going to order another one and try Joe's suggestion since we just got a new drill press at work. ETA: There's a thread around here somewhere with detailed pictures of the same cut I used. Just a big stripe down one side with the thick cutting wheel. It's ugly, but can work. Awesome, what I was looking for, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild Gene Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 If you take metal out of the wrong spot, couldn't you defeat the safety plunger? Be careful! WG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro-Pain Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 If you take metal out of the wrong spot, couldn't you defeat the safety plunger? Be careful! WG Off of the top, yes. Which is why I was looking for advice, and why I was only going to use this in a competition gun, not an everyday carry gun. Probably going to break down and just buy a new striker though, kind of thin on materials I could find on the subject. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 If you take metal out of the wrong spot, couldn't you defeat the safety plunger? Be careful! WG Probably going to break down and just buy a new striker though, kind of thin on materials I could find on the subject. Jager. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 I lighten all of mine w/a Dremel. Using a cut off blade make cuts along the length of the firing pin in the fat area. Cut off some of the material on the back of the FP (the sear area). W/the sear pointed up make a 45* cut on the left side of the sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 I lighten all of mine w/a Dremel. Using a cut off blade make cuts along the length of the firing pin in the fat area. Cut off some of the material on the back of the FP (the sear area). W/the sear pointed up make a 45* cut on the left side of the sear. I think looking at the firing pin from the back as if it was in the gun the 45* cut would be on the right side. Correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 My mistake(after doing a visual check), viewing from the rear the firing pin point away from you, the sear leg pointing UP the 45* cut is on the RIGHT SIDE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 My mistake(after doing a visual check), viewing from the rear the firing pin point away from you, the sear leg pointing UP the 45* cut is on the RIGHT SIDE. 10-4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biloxi23 Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 There hasn't been a precision firearm made that cannot be totally screwed up by non-judicious application of a Dremel tool. Ask me how I know this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild Gene Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 There hasn't been a precision firearm made that cannot be totally screwed up by non-judicious application of a Dremel tool. Ask me how I know this. Well???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro-Pain Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 There hasn't been a precision firearm made that cannot be totally screwed up by non-judicious application of a Dremel tool. Ask me how I know this. My mentor for USPSA, on doing a trigger job with a dremel, polishing the contact surfaces, told me that a Dremel is a gunsmith's best friend. I said, "Oh, because you can make all the parts fit and get them the exact size you want, right?" He told me, "No, because shooters hack their parts to pieces and bring them to a 'smith to fix. Dremel tools are job security for gunsmiths." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 My mentor for USPSA, on doing a trigger job with a dremel, polishing the contact surfaces, told me that a Dremel is a gunsmith's best friend. I said, "Oh, because you can make all the parts fit and get them the exact size you want, right?" He told me, "No, because shooters hack their parts to pieces and bring them to a 'smith to fix. Dremel tools are job security for gunsmiths." I have never seen the need for a Smith with a Glock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-Bros_JLR Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 There hasn't been a precision firearm made that cannot be totally screwed up by non-judicious application of a Dremel tool. Ask me how I know this. Not so sure the words precision firearm apply to a Glock..............so go for it with the Dremel! Just kidding folks I say go for it and post some results! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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