Drilling Slide Questions

[BoldasLions]

Is it safe to use a drill press to drill holes into a slide?

If so, what rpm and type of bit should be used?

Or is a milling machine the best option?

Thank You

[Loves2Shoot]

What kind of slide and holes? How good of a drill press do you have? What are you going to hold the slide with?

[Toolguy]

A mill is the best drill press there is. It is very rigid and you can easily put your holes exactly on location. You can drill holes in a slide with a drill press. You need a drill press vise to hold the slide. The best drills for this are solid carbide spade drills. You can get those in a wide range of sizes from use-enco.com, mscdirect.com, or mcmaster.com.

They will drill through any slide, hard or soft. They are not suitable for deep holes, but a slide is fairly thin in most places that extra holes are likely to be drilled.

[BoldasLions]

Going for two simply holes in the area that the rear cocking serrations would be. I would think I would need something that will go deep. Those holes go completely through the slide.

Edited March 7, 2011 by BoldasLions

[Toolguy]

For that you want 2 flute solid carbide bits. That operation would be best done on a mill to hold the slide solid because of the interrupted cut in the different areas. If you try to do that one with a drill press, you will bust up the carbide drills.

[Loves2Shoot]

Yes, those aren't drilled, they are milled. I'm sure someone could hack it out with a drill press and a pile of drill bits though if they were really determined.

[BoldasLions]

Thank You for the help!

[BoldasLions]

Any ideas of the bit sizes for these cuts?

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: Just by looking at the holes I would say they are 3/8" diameter. I also think that are drilled then reamed to size. You can use high speed steel drill bits since they will hold up better with the different steps that you will be drilling through. I would also drill a pilot hole first so the drill bit will not wonder as much. A 1/4" hole should help pilot the bigger drill bit and reamer. If you do it in a drill press make sure you clamp the vice very well to the drill press table. Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric

[Resjudicata]

Boldaslions,

I drilled my 6" STI slide with a drill press including the two holes you are looking to do in the back area of the slide. It took a long time. I used crappy bits. It took a long time. (Did I say it took a long time)? It also looks like hell compared to what a machinist can do.

One reason I did it myself is that I couldn't figure out where the weight needed to come off. There weren't a lot of people who could, or would, say where the weight should come off on a 6" slide. So, I took off some weight then shot it and then took off some more and kept going until I liked how it shot and tracked.

I really do not recommend doing your slide lightening this way. You can do it but it isn't the best idea in the world unless you have really good equipment and know how to use it.

That said, my gun shoots great. It tracks great for me and never chokes. So, if you are like me and don't care how the gun looks then go for it. As long as you are careful where you put the holes then even if it comes out looking like hell it doesn't mean that it won't work.

JMHO,

Chris

[Loves2Shoot]

You just need the proper sized bit and one plunge with the correct end mill. Here is one I did, note the holes are smaller because he is using an Aftec and the pad is longer than a conventional extractor and I didn't want it to show through the cuts. It is ubber cheap to cut the holes, so I would think it would cost more to hack at it yourself if you don't have the proper tools.

[Resjudicata]

You just need the proper sized bit and one plunge with the correct end mill. Here is one I did, note the holes are smaller because he is using an Aftec and the pad is longer than a conventional extractor and I didn't want it to show through the cuts. It is ubber cheap to cut the holes, so I would think it would cost more to hack at it yourself if you don't have the proper tools.

I agree. For simple cuts if he can get a gunsmith/machinist to do it the cost should be too low to make it worthwhile to do oneself. The cuts in front, I assume, are more expensive to do, right?

Chris

[Loves2Shoot]

The cuts in front, I assume, are more expensive to do, right?

Chris

Much, much more expensive, as they take a LOT more time to do.

The plunge cuts in the back is just measure where you want them, place it in the vise, chuck up the right end mill and dial the correct speed and punch a hole.

[Pat Miles]

You just need the proper sized bit and one plunge with the correct end mill. Here is one I did, note the holes are smaller because he is using an Aftec and the pad is longer than a conventional extractor and I didn't want it to show through the cuts. It is ubber cheap to cut the holes, so I would think it would cost more to hack at it yourself if you don't have the proper tools.

I agree. For simple cuts if he can get a gunsmith/machinist to do it the cost should be too low to make it worthwhile to do oneself. The cuts in front, I assume, are more expensive to do, right?

Chris

Poking the holes in the rear won't be "too low to make it worthwhile to do oneself". If it is done with any semblance of correctness it won't be a giveaway. Disassemble the gun,disassemble the slide, set the slide up in the vise, level the slide with an indicator, chuck up a center cutting end mill, determine where the holes are going, punch the holes, deburr the holes, clean out the swarf in the slide, reassemble the slide and then reassemble the gun.

Just a few steps for a machinist/gunsmith to do.

Pat