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How necessary is case lube when reloading 9mm?


JDucros

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Right now I'm still reloading only 9mm and it'll be that way for a while. After asking some friends they all said I don't need ti use any case lube or any kind of lube in my Dillon carbide dies. I want to be sure this is correct. So far I've loaded about 1000 rounds and I'm still getting a feel for reloading. I have a can of Hornady OneShot case lube on hand. It seems like it would add a lot of extra work to an already tedious process. I think once I get a routine down it will become more relaxing.

As for the press, I'm using a Dillon 550B with the Dillon 9mm conversion kit and Dillon carbide dies. Any thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?

Cheers,

-JD :cheers:

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Necessary? No. Does it make it easier? Yes. Tedious Process? Not really. When I start a reloading session, I dump about 200-300 cases in a cardboard box lid. I use my hands and make sure they’re all lying on their sides, not sticking up on end. This takes about 15 seconds. I then spray the case lube on them and set aside. I then load my primers in the primer tube. By the time I’m done, the lube is dry enough to pour the cases into the empty case bin. Start reloading. I don’t see it as tedious.

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I reloaded for almost a year before ever using case lube. Case lube is a must. They say you don't need it with carbide dies but you do. I couldn't believe the difference after using it the first time. I always felt like I was pulling teeth when sizing a case. The case lube takes away any resistance and makes reloading a much more enjoyable experience. It only takes about a minute to lube the cases. Before you dump your brass into the casefeeder or tube, just lay out a "dedicated" towel and put your brass on it, making sure they're on their side and not standing on end. A couple of sprays and some rolling around for about 10 seconds and you're good to go. I just roll the brass around by hand (hands will get a little funky) or just spray and then grab both ends of the towel (or pillowcase) and roll em around in the middle of the towel. It makes a huge difference with case lube. Hornady One Shot is good stuff too.

Edited by alpha-charlie
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Necessary? No. Does it make it easier? Yes. Tedious Process? Not really. When I start a reloading session, I dump about 200-300 cases in a cardboard box lid. I use my hands and make sure they’re all lying on their sides, not sticking up on end. This takes about 15 seconds. I then spray the case lube on them and set aside. I then load my primers in the primer tube. By the time I’m done, the lube is dry enough to pour the cases into the empty case bin. Start reloading. I don’t see it as tedious.

You make it sound much easier than the can of OneShot did. I might have to give your method a try. Can I ask what it is about the lube that makes it easier? Is there anything about using lube that can contribute to bullet accuracy or is it simply something that just makes it easier?

DO you have to tumble the completed rounds to clean the lube off?

Thanks for your input.

-JD

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I reloaded for almost a year before ever using case lube. Case lube is a must. They say you don't need it with carbide dies but you do. I couldn't believe the difference after using it the first time. I always felt like I was pulling teeth when sizing a case. The case lube takes away any resistance and makes reloading a much more enjoyable experience. It only takes about a minute to lube the cases. Before you dump your brass into the casefeeder or tube, just lay out a towel and put your brass on it. A couple of sprays and some rolling around for about 10 seconds and you're good to go. I just roll the brass around by hand (hands will get a little funky) or just spray and then grab both ends of the towel (or pillowcase) and roll em around in the middle of the towel. It makes a huge difference with case lube. Hornady One Shot is good stuff too.

Thanks! That answers my question about how it makes it easier. I'll be starting another batch next week and I'll be sure to use case lube this time and report my experience with it.

-JD

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Yep, just a good idea to spray on some lube. Lubed cases are easier on you, your dies, and probably make the brass last longer. Possibly, that extra resistance we feel with a dry case, is causing the case to elongate as it pulls out of the die. -Sam

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I went through a whole can of Hornady One-Shot today, prepping .223 brass, there it IS necessary.

I just don't see the benefit on straight walled short pistol cases. My brass lasts longer than I care to shoot it, I don't get stuck cases, my dies have not worn out. I've measured cases before and after sizing with and without lube and measure no difference. Not saying it hurts, sure it helps, but it is NOT necessary. I've not had a squib, but several of the guys that lube their pistol brass have had squibs or very low power rounds. I don't trim pistol brass either. :surprise:

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Needed? No. Useful and helpful? YES YES YES

Pick a lube that is inert, like Hornady One Shot and it will not affect the powder or primer. You do not need to clean it off after loading. Your ammo won't be clean and shinny but it will work just fine. I have not noticed any impact to function or accuracy by leaving it on.

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Not needed but does make it easier. My method for lube was to pick up a bottle of lanolin oil off the internet. Mix with denatured alcohol in a spray bottle. Spray into a plastic bag along with a bunch of cases. Shake and set off to the side. Load as usual. I generally do not lube most cases, just those with a noticeable bulge from factory rounds that are loaded hot and shot out of a loose chamber. I shoot a Glock 34 and 35 and most of my brass sizes easy, it is the factory stuff that usually bulges and it is not being shot out of a Glock either.

For necked down rifle I always have them standing up and spray so that some of the lube enters the neck. Drop into a bag spray again and shake. After sizing drop back into media and clean. Then prime and load as usual.

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I have the Dillon 550 and it works way smoother with lube than with out.

I use Dillon's case lube. I dump roughly about how many casings that I intend on reloading that day into a card board box, make sure all casing are laying down, spray a couple of pumps on them, shake the box and repeat the process one more time.

After reloading, I dump the completed rounds into a towel, spray them with rubbing alcohol and dry them with the towel. This takes the lube off so that it does not gum up your gun.

If this sound tedious, it is not and is well worth the small amount of time it takes.

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I haven't heard from anyone else who does it quite like this...but if you get a tube of Lansinoh lanolin, you can put just a tiny dab on your right hand, up high on the index finger or thumb. From there, using the opposite digit, get a tiny amount of that on the pad of that digit and rub the two together. Then as you're picking up brass from the brass bin and manipulating them into station one, they get auto-lubed. When you feel that the lube is losing effectiveness, replenish the lube on your thumb and index finger tips.

I've been doing this with 9mm and .45acp, and most of the time have not done anything to remove it. A couple times, realizing I was using too much, I did wipe off the finished cartridges.

With these calibers and carbide, you don't have to lube...but it runs so much smoother and easier, once you try it, you won't want to go back.

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i have not been loading that long but when i started i did'nt use case lube and a friend thats been loading for a while came by to see how i was doing and load a few rounds we started and he ask for some case lube i did'nt have any so he he ran home and brought some ,it is a noticeable difference i'm loading with a 650 and it is smoother with the case lube and you have a better feel when you seat the primer. Is it necessary no but it sure goes smoother, also i put the casings in a cardboard primer box lay flat 1 or 2 sprays close the lid and shake and thats it ,not that hard works great.

john

Edited by jsa
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Straightwall pistol cases do not need lubing IF you use carbide dies. Dillon pistol dies are carbide. Some folks lube anyway, I do not. Lubing pistol cases is a personal preference and it makes no difference to the quality of the end product whether you do so or not.

Bottleneck rifle cases (and the .357 SIG pistol case) require lubing with or without carbide dies.

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Necessary no but you'll find it's easier on the machine, won't come out of adjustment as easy. Dies last longer. Much easier on the operator. Lube is all positive.

I use a system like njl, small dab on the finger in a 18qt plastic dishpan with about 2,000 9mm cased. After lubing I'll pour them in a 5gal bucket and load from that bucket till it gets low. Then do the cleaning, inspection and lubing process on a bad weather day. The powder die will build up with lube if you use to much. A little goes a long way. If you want to remove the lube just put the loaded rounds back through the tumbler after loading.

I also load on a 550 and have two of them. Another trick is to use powdered graphite as a lube on the primer slide bar and powder measure bars.

If you don't have an air compressor a can of spray air will help clean the primer slide bar of trash.

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Take a 2qt. ziplock bag, put 3or4 hand fulls of brass in then spray with One-Shot. Close bag and shake brass around in the bag then dump in case feeder. Makes reloading 50% easier.

I don't recommend spraying it in AFTER the brass is already in the bag. It can get into the case mouth = not good. Spray some in the bag before you put the brass in, then spray some on a clean paper towel, place brass and paper towel in 1 gallon ziploc bac, close and shake for a few minutes.

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