Sixgun Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 My comp has come loose and in using the search function, I have come across 2 "threadlockers" that may work: Loctite 620 and Shoe-Goo. I know the 620 will work like gangbusters, but how well does Shoe-Goo hold up? How often do you have to reapply, or is it a once and you're done situation? Thanks, Ray C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tightloop Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 It won't work.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNsTeR Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Shoe-Goo barely clings to my shoes, I wouldn't even think of trying to do anything important with it. (seriously though, it is pretty good for shoe repair) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L9X25 Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Sixgun, Depending on the type of comp that you have (cone, bull or bushing) Shoe goo can range from the best to acceptable. My problem with Loctite is that the types that can be removed without risk of damaging the barrel or comp will usually come apart with the heat and shock that is a byproduct of firing the gun. There are some stronger "stud and bearing" loctite formulas that work well but they work too well and may require enough heat to remove that they damage (weaken) the barrel/comp metal. Shoe Goo is unaffected by the heat and shock created by shooting the gun. It maintains a "rubbery" state that keeps the parts from coming loose while still being removable without excess torque or any heat. I have been using it to attach my comps and scope screws for years with great success. Many of the folks in my area have converted to it with similar success. Most feel foolish telling others what they use but still use it themselves. I'm not ashamed to say that I was the first to use it over 10 years ago, when trying to keep my comp attached to a P-9 style gun. I spoke with all of the sponsored shooters and they had tried everything with little or no success and I told them about the Shoe Goo then. Most laughed but later tried it. If you are not familiar with P-9 style guns you had to remove the comp from the barrel before you could remove the barrel from the slide and clean the gun. Removing the comp was a regular occurrence. Shoe Goo is cheap and works for most situations. If it does not work for you it causes no harm and can easily be removed and replaced with the Loctite of your choice. You can then keep the tube to fix an old pair of tennis shoes. Good Luck, Leo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L9X25 Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Monster, Shoe Goo's ability to cling is hardly taxed when it is trapped between two threaded pieces of metal. What is important is that it expands slightly while curing and tightens the fit of the parts. All I can say to you or TL is not to knock it before you try it. And, for the record. it does stick to my old tennies ... you just have to clean the area before applying it. Leo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Heidkamp Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 That's interesting about using Shoe Goo on scope screws - I've always used blue loctite for those, with good success - just clean everything with 100% isopropyl first (or brake cleaner) and DON"T touch the threads after cleaning the screws. Carbon stops loctite from adhering from what I've seen. That being said, 620 is the ONLY thing to put on a comp (unless you have a P-9 and have to take it off all the time) because even the old standby red loctite will loosen eventually. Unless your thread clearance is really tight, then it might work. However, the first time you put alot of rounds through the gun and get it hot, you'll most likely look down at your gun and see your comp at 20 degrees off center. You don't want to be fretting about your equipment in a match. Also, be wary of using primer with the 620 - it hardened faster than I could screw the comp on the one time I tried it so I don't use primer anymore - still seems to harden just fine. Although 620 might cost more than Shoe Goo you can get it for about $15 a bottle (I think that's what I paid, maybe it was more) at your Loctite distributor, and one bottle should last you a long time! All of the gunsmiths - even the manufacturers such as STI use 620 as far as I know. I remember finding it from a post here by Benny Hill a while back, and it works really well (thanks Benny!). Hope this helps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reneet Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Loc-tite RC 620 or 680 is what we normally use for comp installation as well as our Mini-14 Gun Barrel Stabilizer installation. The 620 is preferable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L9X25 Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 I have no problem with Loctite products and feel that they do a good job. I personally don't want that permanent of an installation. I don't want to break out the torches each time I want to remove the comp. If you want the comp installation to be permanent (or semi permanent) Loctite or silver solder are good products for that purpose. If you want the ability to easily remove the comp, for cleaning, replacement or whatever, without heat or special tools, Shoe Goo works well for me. On the subject of Scope mount screws, I have not really had a problems with screws coming loose constantly. With Loctite I have, far more often, had the allen head sockets "round out" when attempting to remove them, requiring more drastic measures to remove the screw, often destroying it in the process. Leo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sixgun Posted March 4, 2004 Author Share Posted March 4, 2004 On the Shoe-Goo note... I work in the HVAC industry and we have a high temperature silicone (RTV). The specs say sustained temps of 500 deg F and sporadic temps up to 600 deg F. I'm going to try that and see how it works. Worst case is I'll have to buy a tube of 620 and reinstall the comp. Thank you everyone! Ray C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L9X25 Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Ray, If your goal is to "permanently" attach the comp, Loctite (or silver solder) will do a better job for you. If your goal is to keep the comp from moving, while preserving the ability to easily and safely remove the comp, try Shoe Goo or your commercial product. Good Luck, Leo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sixgun Posted March 7, 2004 Author Share Posted March 7, 2004 Well, I tried the RTV silicone, but the comp moved very easily after only 30 shots. I also installed the comp with the gun in full battery. I noticed that the back of the slide and the rear of the frame are not flush. The frame in approx 1/16" showing in the rear. Should I adjust my battery so that they are flush? I'm shooting an STI with a bull barrel. The gun functions fine like that, but looks kinda funny. Thanks, Ray C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 I have one of the aforementioned P9s and I have never removed my comp to clean the gun. It is easily cleaned as-is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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