Extra Length Firing Pin

[sensei]

Hi all,

I have a lot of problems to find the way, to order 4-5 pcs. of S&W "Extra Length Firing Pin", for my Revos (625 / Wolff Reduced-power spring).

Here in Italy, theese pins are Unknow, nobody know what they are ....

I tried to order from Cilynder&Slides and from Brownells, but the first said that now it is impossible ship guns-parts, the second don't ship ANYthing in Europe.

I really don't know what i have to do, to have theese little pcs. of steel !!!

Can somebody tell me if there is an On-Line shop that sell this article overseas ?

Thank you for any answer.

[DougCarden]

I, personally having two 8 shot revos with the frame mounted firing pin for several years( one gun over 12K), wouldnt put one of the CS extra length parts in. With the Wolfe or Miculek spring kit with fed primers your standard length firing pin is sufficient for a light pull. I know a couple of guys that used the extra long pin and broke them(both in matches ), the factory ones work fine for me.

Another concern is that with stout loads you would be more apt to pierce primers. As a long time Pin Shooter running 200+ Power factor loads I have pierced a few primers in my day with the standard length firing pin, so a longer one wouldnt be better.

I am sure that S&W would ship you some spares if you ask. If not PM me and I will send you what I have in the garage.

[bountyhunter]

I, personally having two 8 shot revos with the frame mounted firing pin for several years( one gun over 12K), wouldnt put one of the CS extra length parts in.

I bought them for my four SW guns and tend to agree with that opinion. I thought they would allow me to dial down the mainspring force more to get lighter pull ( and still have good ignition) , but I did not find it to be true. They are also poorly machined and all required fitting (they stick out too far and drag on the primers as made). On top of that, C+S says you can not dry fire without snap caps for what reason I don't know? Overall, I have found them to be a waste of money in that they did not do anything good for my guns.

I highly recommend the Wolff reduced power ribbed mainsprings. They are excellent and pull very smoothly.

[sensei]

DouqC - Bounty,

Thank you for your impression,

I started to have the first miss-fire, after the installation the Wolff Reduced Power ribbed mainspring, with the screw all-closed (and it was a really smooth trigger-pull).

I did NOT changed the rebound spring, because i was thinking that a very fast rebound of the trigger it is a good choice, to accelerate my split-time. .... but now i am thinking that the 15 lbs. rebound spring can be a "good" compromise, (the factory spring it is 18 lbs. ?).

Now, i am using a "Wilson Tune Custom" mainspring (i have a Wolff-standard too ...), and in about half-serrating screw i have a very good ignition, .... .... but the trigger-pull weigth it's a little bit heavy, than the Wolff Red. Pow.

I have NOT a really trigger-job, (this Revo it is "young", .... about 2.500 shot only), but my gun-smith had only polished (like mirror) the trigger, the hammer, and the rebound-train (!), to eliminate every frictions with the frame.

So, after this "report", i think i will NOT take the Extra-length Pin, maybe i will change the rebound spring with the 15 lbs. , but i'm still not sure to make a trigger-job.

What do you think about cutting the hammer-crest ? (bob-hammer) .... i was reading other old posts, and someone said that it will be more lighter and than more faster (more ignition ...) ..... impressions ???

Thank you again, .... expecially if are so patient .... to understand my English !!!

Luca

[sensei]

ooops !

I forgot to say that my 625 have an SDM front installed green fiber .250 high, and the rear original S&W, because after i have tried the Millet .360 i was shooting too much high, (for my shooting-style), because i usually "cover" the target (or the plate) with the front sight, and the shot MUST go in the point where i put the "dot" of the fiber optic, not high or down.

hi

[MoNsTeR]

I would definitely go to a lighter rebound spring. It improves the pull substantially, and I don't even notice the softer reset.

[bountyhunter]

What do you think about cutting the hammer-crest ? (bob-hammer) .... i was reading other old posts, and someone said that it will be more lighter and than more faster (more ignition ...) ..... impressions ???

I don't know if bobbing the hammer will increase firing pin striking force or not. That increases the speed of the hammer, but reduces it's mass. The hammer must accelerate the firing pin against it's return spring. It's an interesting physics problem, I am not sure whether bobbing is better or worse. I suspect it won't make much difference.

As for the hammer: are the sides polished very smooth? Also, don't use a heavy oil on the hammer where it goes on the pivot pin because it will drag. A very light oil like FP-10 is good. Look at the hammer closely and make sure it is not dragging or rubbing on anything as it falls (one of mine had that).

I have not had any light strikes using the Wolff ribbed spring. It could be your ammo has harder primers than I am used to. One solution is to use a shim under the end of the strain screw with the Wolf ribbed spring. Tighten all the way in and then back it out until you get a misfire, Turn back in a little and use blue loctite on the strain screw to make sure it stays put. That will assure you have enough hammer force for your ammo. I have found that the ribbed spring design allows me a DA pull of about a pound less for the same hammer force compared to a "flat" spring. The flat springs are OK, but you can not get the trigger pull as light with them.