Five of Clubs Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Update so made it to the range this morn and I am happy to report that moving that spring seems to fixed the auto problem. I did all I could to try and get it to go auto? double, triple taps nothing, so Im happy for sure! Thx for the all the insight on my problem everyone.... Do you have a 1st or 2nd generation Glock? I had the exact same situation occur when I installed a Vanek Classic on my 2nd gen G22. I installed the trigger in December but didn't shoot it until March or so. When I took it to the range, I kept thinking, "Did that just double?" A few rounds later there was no doubt as my G22 emptied the magazine (about 5 rounds) with a single trigger pull. That was weird. When I got home I sent Charlie an email. Within minutes he replied with a phone number. When we spoke, he immediately knew what the problem was and told me to move the trigger spring to the lower hole. (In retrospect, it is possible he told me that I might need to do this months prior when I bought the trigger). He said that moving it would give the sear more engagement and solve the problem. Charlie knows his stuff and of course he was right. 2,000 rounds later and it hasn't done it again. Anyway, that was a long story to tell you that you might be correct in thinking that you're fixed at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njl Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 That's a pretty obvious fix for insufficient engagement between the trigger bar and the striker. Moving the trigger spring hole up the trigger causes the pull of the trigger spring to change to more of a straight back pull, reducing trigger pull weight. There must be just enough play in some Glock trigger housings that doing this results in the trigger bar being pulled down enough to end up with insufficient engagement. Moving the trigger spring back down to a lower or the original hole will result in the trigger bar being pulled back and up, increasing engagement, but probably also adding a bit (few ounces?) to your trigger pull. If you have a digital trigger pull gauge, I bet you can measure the difference...but if the lighter trigger doubles or goes full auto, it's no good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffWard Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Possible Solution: 1) Box it up 2) Take it to the hood 3) Sell it for big bucks 4) Use proceeds to buy a new M&P NOTICE: The proceeding comments where made in a poor attempt at comedy. I do not endorse this course of action... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Five of Clubs Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 That's a pretty obvious fix for insufficient engagement between the trigger bar and the striker. Moving the trigger spring hole up the trigger causes the pull of the trigger spring to change to more of a straight back pull, reducing trigger pull weight. There must be just enough play in some Glock trigger housings that doing this results in the trigger bar being pulled down enough to end up with insufficient engagement. Moving the trigger spring back down to a lower or the original hole will result in the trigger bar being pulled back and up, increasing engagement, but probably also adding a bit (few ounces?) to your trigger pull. If you have a digital trigger pull gauge, I bet you can measure the difference...but if the lighter trigger doubles or goes full auto, it's no good. I'm trying to remember exactly what Charlie said. I think it was something like on older Glocks like mine (1996 2nd Gen) the slide actually rides a little higher off the frame than the lastest Glocks do. The trigger he supplied me had the option of a second lower hole for the trigger spring than can fix engagement problems if they occur in older Glocks. He was talking pretty far over my head for a lot of the conversation, like when he mentioned the sear. (I was envisioning the sear in my 1911 versus the trigger bar and just got confused.) Anyway, I just stayed quiet until he was done and then said, "Yes sir". A few days later I sent him an email that said his suggestion worked. I did not measure the trigger pull weight, but you are correct that it did slightly increase after I moved the spring. Regarding the full-auto aspect, my buddies all want me to change the spring location back and let them shoot the gun. I doubt I would have much of a defense if I did that knowingly! I'll pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 Buy an M & what.... LoL Mine is 3rd gene and the place that did the trigger also suggested putting that spring back in the bottom hole along with another top glock trigger builder that also suggested the same thing and both felt very confident that will fix the issue. Seems to have solved it, will have a better idea after I shoot a steel match tonight and gonna run it at another match this sunday? I did everything I could to get it to go auto yesterday and nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdcr Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 They drilled the hole too high. Been there, done that. Throw it away and start with another cheap $14 trigger bar. You don;t have to heat it to remove the temper just use a good fixture and a 2 flute carbide bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted September 17, 2010 Author Share Posted September 17, 2010 Went through the steel outing with out issue last night. So far so good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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