stinsonbeach Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 PS: you have been given those exact specs. over the last year or so with those you shoot with! I don't have any friends!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimberacp Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 In Patricks Sweeny's book about the 45acp, he states "remember this number .468". for crimping a 230 FMJ bullet. thats what I use with a 1.250 OAL. really as long as the round will fall in and fall out of the barrel chamber, you will be fine. also, check that the round does not extend pass the barrel hood. but always chrono your load because crimping and OAL will affect your velocity and the amount of powder you will need to make major. years ago at the Golden Eagle match in Indiana, I over heard Les Baer before he worked at SA talking with Rick Castlow about the crimping and Rick told Les, he crimps heavy, since the 45acp is a low pressure round. for what it worth... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 In Patricks Sweeny's book about the 45acp, he states "remember this number .468". for crimping a 230 FMJ bullet. thats what I use with a 1.250 OAL. really as long as the round will fall in and fall out of the barrel chamber, you will be fine. also, check that the round does not extend pass the barrel hood. but always chrono your load because crimping and OAL will affect your velocity and the amount of powder you will need to make major. years ago at the Golden Eagle match in Indiana, I over heard Les Baer before he worked at SA talking with Rick Castlow about the crimping and Rick told Les, he crimps heavy, since the 45acp is a low pressure round. for what it worth... Some of my friends say crimp - some say just a gentle taper. I will tell you this - I put a heavy crimp & had trouble. I'm experimenting now...I'll let you know. Thank you - it's worth a lot... -jb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bompa Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 With all these answers about crimp diameter it seems to me that you have forgotten that crimp is not the proper term for what you are trying to achieve..The object is to remove the bell that you applied to be able to seat the bullet in a straight manner..Just enough to not have a lip on the mouth of the case..If your bullets are not extremely over sized this should not be a problem.. In over 50 years of reloading I have never measured the so called crimp and never had any problems once the OAL was established,to long,to short then you might have problems.. Sorry for the long post,just had to throw my two cents worth into the ring.. Henry T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattog22 Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 The problem is that I removed the bell and had it within spec per Hornady's reloading manual. Then due to chamber tolerances and bullet profile, not OAL, caused some feeding problems. The discussion here is finding out what works for different bullets and guns. I never had problems either until I started loading lead and it became a learning experience that taught me to pay more attention to detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted August 5, 2010 Author Share Posted August 5, 2010 (edited) With all these answers about crimp diameter it seems to me that you have forgotten that crimp is not the proper term for what you are trying to achieve..The object is to remove the bell that you applied to be able to seat the bullet in a straight manner..Just enough to not have a lip on the mouth of the case..If your bullets are not extremely over sized this should not be a problem.. In over 50 years of reloading I have never measured the so called crimp and never had any problems once the OAL was established,to long,to short then you might have problems.. Sorry for the long post,just had to throw my two cents worth into the ring.. Henry T Hell no . . . that is just the "stuff" I need. Thank you - & I'm sure that goes for those who read this. -jb "Posted Today, 02:06 PM The problem is that I removed the bell and had it within spec per Hornady's reloading manual. Then due to chamber tolerances and bullet profile, not OAL, caused some feeding problems. The discussion here is finding out what works for different bullets and guns. I never had problems either until I started loading lead and it became a learning experience that taught me to pay more attention to detail." Matt I've got to tell you, I started having problems when I got too specific w/ my re-loads...but I shoot w/ some truly knowledgeable people who told me this & that. My guess is I didn't listen closely enough because that's when my problems began. Now I have to sort it all out...probably best to start over w/o any pre-conceptions. -jb Edited August 5, 2010 by stinsonbeach Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattog22 Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 With all these answers about crimp diameter it seems to me that you have forgotten that crimp is not the proper term for what you are trying to achieve..The object is to remove the bell that you applied to be able to seat the bullet in a straight manner..Just enough to not have a lip on the mouth of the case..If your bullets are not extremely over sized this should not be a problem.. In over 50 years of reloading I have never measured the so called crimp and never had any problems once the OAL was established,to long,to short then you might have problems.. Sorry for the long post,just had to throw my two cents worth into the ring.. Henry T Hell no . . . that is just the "stuff" I need. Thank you - & I'm sure that goes for those who read this. -jb "Posted Today, 02:06 PM The problem is that I removed the bell and had it within spec per Hornady's reloading manual. Then due to chamber tolerances and bullet profile, not OAL, caused some feeding problems. The discussion here is finding out what works for different bullets and guns. I never had problems either until I started loading lead and it became a learning experience that taught me to pay more attention to detail." Matt I've got to tell you, I started having problems when I got too specific w/ my re-loads...but I shoot w/ some truly knowledgeable people who told me this & that. My guess is I didn't listen closely enough because that's when my problems began. Now I have to sort it all out...probably best to start over w/o any pre-conceptions. -jb That's a good way to go about it, it's what I try to do. Load it, if it works good, don't get too crazy, don't fix what's not broken. When a problem arises address that problem, not everything else you don't think is just perfect. Just like I said, I had everything running good, tried to load 230 gr LRN the same way I load 230 gr FMJ (except for adjusting powder charge) and it turns out taking the bell off the LRN takes more crimp than FMJ. These are the type of lessons that probably teach you the most because you don't forget those mistakes. Sometimes you forget what someone just mentions or suggests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noylj Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 .45ACP is a taper crimp. You only need to eliminate the belling. Look at the case against a well-lit white background. Can you detect any remnent of the belling? If so, increase crimp. Have attached cartridge drawing. The case at the mouth should be .470-.473" if you are into measuring and trying to be scientifical. For decades, I have used a factory round to set the taper crimp die. If factory rounds feed without a problem, then they must have the right crimp—right? Take out your barrel and use it to establish your crimp and COL (the cartridge should drop in the chamber with a nice CLUNK and the case head should be flush or slightly below the barrel hood). Your barrel is your friend, use it. Load a couple of dummy rounds (no powder and no primer) so you can function test (fit magazine, feeds, and chambers). Label these with bullet and dimension information. Load 10 rounds. Go to the range and ensure that they work in your gun. Load more and enjoy. Make a record of what you do and what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinsonbeach Posted August 8, 2010 Author Share Posted August 8, 2010 .45ACP is a taper crimp. You only need to eliminate the belling. Look at the case against a well-lit white background. Can you detect any remnent of the belling? If so, increase crimp. Have attached cartridge drawing. The case at the mouth should be .470-.473" if you are into measuring and trying to be scientifical. For decades, I have used a factory round to set the taper crimp die. If factory rounds feed without a problem, then they must have the right crimp—right? Take out your barrel and use it to establish your crimp and COL (the cartridge should drop in the chamber with a nice CLUNK and the case head should be flush or slightly below the barrel hood). Your barrel is your friend, use it. Load a couple of dummy rounds (no powder and no primer) so you can function test (fit magazine, feeds, and chambers). Label these with bullet and dimension information. Load 10 rounds. Go to the range and ensure that they work in your gun. Load more and enjoy. Make a record of what you do and what happens. Thank you. You seem knowledgeable so I'll ask you: what is the COL of a HP? -jb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisman17 Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Gotta say I've been reloading 45 for the past 16 yrs and have never measured crimp, like others say I just eve ball the finished rd against a straight edge and make sure the bell is removed. Hmmm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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