EricW Posted January 31, 2004 Share Posted January 31, 2004 Before I go out and buy a new sizing die from EGW to reload 40, I figured I might see what happened if I gave my old Dillon 40 die the ol' grind o'matic & polish treatment. Here's my first cut at it: This will actually fix a bit of the problem I think. I've always had trouble getting the dies down far enough. I figure I can just keep taking it down until I get any Glock bulges out. If it works, I've saved $20. If not, EGW will be getting an order. Anybody else tried this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterj Posted January 31, 2004 Share Posted January 31, 2004 Yep, did the resizing die on my 550 but havent gotten to the 650 yet. I purposely resized some "beer-belly" Glock brass to see if it did any good. Works like a charm. Gonna try to "fix" my 38super die next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turtle Posted January 31, 2004 Share Posted January 31, 2004 Eric, I've been telling people about doing that for years and they look at me like.... It really does do the trick though! Regards, Todd See Skipper, I'm not crazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted January 31, 2004 Share Posted January 31, 2004 I thought there was a scare that the carbide sizing ring would fall out. Any special technique need to prevent that? I think somebody also post that Dillon can/will mill the cut-outs in the shell plate a bit deeper so that yo9u can crank the die down further. Anybody tried that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted January 31, 2004 Author Share Posted January 31, 2004 I thought there was a scare that the carbide sizing ring would fall out. Any special technique need to prevent that? It certainly *might*, but I doubt that a reasonable amount of grinding (.020-.040") is going to cause the ring to fall out. I'm assuming that the rings are heat shrink fit or press-fit into the dies - there's no apparrent locking mechanism at the mouth. If the sizer ring was going to fall out, it would fall out regardless of doing the mod. Personally, I think the Dillon is vastly less susceptible to the sizing ring falling out than the Lee/EGW - since Dillon's ring is at least half again as long (more friction). I've never heard of a Dillon die failing anyway so I think it's a non-issue. (Heard about all kinds of Lee stuff going south though. And, unfortunately, the EGW die has every weakness of a Lee die, since it is a Lee die. ) The one thing this mod does do is make it so one can break the sizing ring. Dillon recesses their sizing ring in the die a bit to prevent this - which is why it's so tough to get a full-length resize using a Dillon die, but the die will last forever. So, it's up the user of this mod make sure they aren't bashing the sizing ring onto the shellplate. My real point with this thread is this: Damn near everybody here that shoots Limited probably has a .40 Dillon die either in use or lying around. If 7.3 minutes with bench grinder and/or a belt sander can make the die usable (to fix bulged brass), why the heck not? It's a zero-loss proposition. I have a similar issue with Dillon's .223 sizing die, so guess what's going on the grinder next? As far as milling the shellplate - if I had a mill or a drill press, it would be done already. But, I can almost guarantee it's cheaper to buy the EGW die than to have the shellplate milled at Dillon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted February 1, 2004 Share Posted February 1, 2004 My Dad has a drill / mill, and I have done the shellplate trick. I works on most cases, but you must be real carefull to make sure that all the milled areas are done to the exact same depth. Going to far will lead to the case slot strength being reduced and some shellplates may start to bend a little. Use of lubricated cases is a must. Cartridges that require a fair amount of force to remove them from the dies will not be able to have the shellplate skimmed down to the minimum. Just be careful and be prepared to replace the odd shellplate. I have not attacked the dies as I am of the opinion that they work fine the only problem I see is getting far enough down the case on some calibres. I am sure that if you did both then you will have the best of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickpony Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 You guys ever use the Case Pro or the Magma Engineering Case Size Master Jr.? I've had great luck with the Case Size Master from Magma Engineering, it takes some time but works great. I now use a modified dillon size die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted February 3, 2004 Share Posted February 3, 2004 Magma Eng. Case Size Master, Jr. = bucks Case Pro = big bucks EricW's grind = no bucks, and no big deal for a die that he doesn't mind losing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3GunF1Guy Posted February 3, 2004 Share Posted February 3, 2004 I don't think that grinding a 223 die will work. will it? It is a bottlneck die, If you shorten the die then the sholder will be lower. I always adjust my rifle dies to push the sholder back just enough to chamber in my gun. Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted February 3, 2004 Author Share Posted February 3, 2004 I don't think that grinding a 223 die will work. will it? It is a bottlneck die, If you shorten the die then the sholder will be lower. I always adjust my rifle dies to push the sholder back just enough to chamber in my gun. That is exactly what I want to accomplish - to push the shoulder back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustJohn Posted February 3, 2004 Share Posted February 3, 2004 Just an idea toss the barrel buy a bar sto barrel with a supported chamber and get to things at once no bulge and a lot better accuracy.I think that even with the bulge pressed back the case is still week in that area and could blow if it were to line up in the same place time after time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45junkie Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 I like the idea of replacing the Glock barrel. It may be overkill but I feel safer with the high pressure 40 loads. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 EricW, The Dillon carbide rings are held in by three separate ways: Carbide rings are a press fit into the die body, they are also loc-tited in place, and the bottom of the die body is swaged over the bottom of the ring to retain it. this also, as you discerned, prevents the carbide from directly impacting the top of the shellplate so it doesn't crack. there is easily room to remove .010"-.020" from the bottom swaged portion without doing any damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted July 23, 2007 Author Share Posted July 23, 2007 FWIW, I probably have 20 to 30K loaded using the ground down die with no feeding issues. I also retain the benefits of having the large, tapered entrance to the die. Win-win if you ask me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveZ Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 Win-win if you ask me. and me! I modified my die after reading Eric's post. While I haven't loaded near the number that Eric has (I'm trying to catch up as fast as I can)....I also haven't had a single problem with it.....I also haven't had a single case not feed because it wasn't sized properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 Win-win if you ask me. and me! I modified my die after reading Eric's post. While I haven't loaded near the number that Eric has (I'm trying to catch up as fast as I can)....I also haven't had a single problem with it.....I also haven't had a single case not feed because it wasn't sized properly. Hi all, I am looking at doing the mod on my Dillon .40 die. I am a little concerned with keeping the base of the die concentric if I just hold it by hand on a grinding wheel. How did you do it? How much did you take off? It appears that the only material removed is just below the threads and the die was not shortened any, just made "skinnier" at the base. Thx Mike BTW I have also just ordered the EGW die, just in case Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 Does anyone have a stock Dillon 40 die that you could post a pic of? be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted August 21, 2007 Author Share Posted August 21, 2007 Win-win if you ask me. and me! I modified my die after reading Eric's post. While I haven't loaded near the number that Eric has (I'm trying to catch up as fast as I can)....I also haven't had a single problem with it.....I also haven't had a single case not feed because it wasn't sized properly. Hi all, I am looking at doing the mod on my Dillon .40 die. I am a little concerned with keeping the base of the die concentric if I just hold it by hand on a grinding wheel. How did you do it? How much did you take off? It appears that the only material removed is just below the threads and the die was not shortened any, just made "skinnier" at the base. Thx Mike BTW I have also just ordered the EGW die, just in case If it looks good it is good. The pic I posted is totally hand done. You can't make the die non-concentric where you're grinding, so don't fret. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveZ Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 In my case...I looked at Eric's picture and then took mine to the beltsander until mine looked like Eric's. I think it took about 5 seconds total time on the sander....then a few minutes on a wire wheel brush...and a bunch of minutes on the buffing wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 I'm still not clear on how to do the grinding. Do you just hold the die against the grinding wheel and kinda let it turn some? I guess I should measure the OD first. What grade of wheel? Obviously, if I have to buy another wheel any savings vs. the EGW die is lost. The other side of my grinder has a wire wheel on it. I think I have the polishing wheel somewhere Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveZ Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 I'm still not clear on how to do the grinding. Mike...the idea behind the grinding is to remove part of the bottom of the die so the carbide sizer can size further down the case. All I did was take the die perpendicular to a belt sander and take a bit off the bottom...but don't go too far....thats it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Ahhh, make it shorter not skinnier! Obviously remove the de-capping pin first. Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 I got the EGW die today. I also got their "chamber checker". I checked a few before re-sizing and my loads would fully seat in their gauge but not in the Frankford gauge that Dillon sells. The EGW ID is .424 and the Dillon is .421. After re-sizing with the EGW in my single stage press they slide into the Dillon gauge fine. And, they look better too. After I resize all my loaded brass I'm gonna put the EGW in my 550 and try the mod on the Dillon die that is in there. Thanx to all. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 I would opt for a Barsto or other manufacturers barrel in 40 S&W and not worry about bulged cases or using lead bullets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob DuBois Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 While this is a good trick, did it wit a Lyman die in 45acp a long time ago, I would go ahead and purchase the U die if you have a tight chambered pistol, S_I aftermarket barrel etc as the whole case will be sized a little smaller. The U die will solve most feeding issues in tight chambered 1911, 2011 pistols. If your shooting a stock barrel, Glock, Sig etc trimming away part of the die will work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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