Field Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 (BTW Shooting Wire is one of a set of emails that list different headlines and press releases in the shooting industry every week.... definately worth the FREE cost sign up today...) thanks. i will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&Pman Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 I just got the apex sear and plungers, spring kit about 3 months ago do to alot of time on the road haven't been able to get new parts installed. Is this installation process able to be done fairly easily or am I better getting it to my gun smith? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philo_Beddoe Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 I just got the apex sear and plungers, spring kit about 3 months ago do to alot of time on the road haven't been able to get new parts installed. Is this installation process able to be done fairly easily or am I better getting it to my gun smith? I am a gun tinkering novice and I did it. I would not attempt anything though until you have plenty of time. Just go slow and follow the directions in Randy's video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlee14 Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 Is the "Kit" worth the extra money over just buying the Apex Sear? I looked at pricing and the sear by itself is $40; but the kit is $95. So the plunger and springs are doubling the cost. Being the cheap guy that I am, can I get the same results by polishing the plunger and tweaking the OEM springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 No. The spring rates are much better. If you want the cheap option, tune the factory sear and just buy the $25 spring kit. Polish the FBS yourself too. I tried the Apex sear, didn't like it. Pulled it back out. I did everything to it that I did the factory sear anyway. Only difference was that it was hardened which made it initially more difficult to work on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotigers Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 (edited) How much lower will the pull weight be with the apex comp kit installed compared to a stock M&P pro? How does this affect warranty? On the APEX site i left a message, but never got an answer. Anyone have a better way of contacting APEX? Edited September 10, 2010 by gotigers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Anyone have a better way of contacting APEX? A little thing I like to call the telephone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotigers Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Anyone have a better way of contacting APEX? A little thing I like to call the telephone. Thanks, everyone loves a smart arse. I dont have that option during work hours. Emails or other online communications works for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cy Soto Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 How much lower will the pull weight be with the apex comp kit installed compared to a stock M&P pro? How does this affect warranty? On the APEX site i left a message, but never got an answer. Anyone have a better way of contacting APEX? The trigger pull will vary slightly from one pistol to the next but, in general, it would be safe to say that if you install all parts of their "competition" kit, you can expect your trigger pull to be just under 3 lbs. You certainly want to keep your OEM parts handy in case you ever have to send your M&P back for repairs. I don't believe that having a competition kit/trigger will void the warranty but, if you send it back to S&W for any reason, there is a good chance that they will replace these parts with their OEM parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flork Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Anyone have a better way of contacting APEX? A little thing I like to call the telephone. Thanks, everyone loves a smart arse. I dont have that option during work hours. Emails or other online communications works for me. guns@apextactical.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RH45 Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 How much lower will the pull weight be with the apex comp kit installed compared to a stock M&P pro? How does this affect warranty? On the APEX site i left a message, but never got an answer. Anyone have a better way of contacting APEX? On my Pro, it was 4#, and after putting in the kit, it came down to 36oz. I think I've put about 100 round trhough it since then, and the trigger is feeling a little better. I plan to shoot a USPSA, and an IDPA match with it this weekend, which should be about another 300 rounds. I'll try to remember to re-measure the trigger pull next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philo_Beddoe Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Adding this kit and dawson precision sight cut my group sizes down signficantly. The trigger is much lighter and easier to shoot accurately. I would highly recommend it. I shoot my pro as good as my CZ 75 now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPCHead Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 I got an M&P 9 recently (not the Pro or long slide) and immediately ordered the Comp. AEK from Apex. I chronicled the installation process here: Apex Comp. AEK installation I can't blame Apex for all my trouble since Randy clearly warned me about the small parts. Anyway, I did get through it successfully eventually. Like others have said, slow and steady while watching the videos is the best way. That and having a clean, brightly lit work area! The resulting trigger is dramatically different in ways that should result in big improvements for me. The take-up is still really long but after that things are pretty amazing. Haven't measured the pull yet but it is almost certainly under 3 lbs. It is very smooth and the break couldn't be better really. The real challenge for me is gauging the point of reset. I also put Dawson sights (DP black serrated rear and f/o front) on it along with the action kit Friday night then shot a practice session Saturday and a match Sunday. I should have waited on the match since this setup is just so different than what I have been shooting. I was all over the place with shots but the match was designed in large part for 3-gun so shots tended to be on the long-ish side. Chalk one up to impatience. I am certain that once I get my muscle memory dialed in on this system I will be performing better than ever. William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rckymtnshooter Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 I put the spring kit in a 9Pro. It took the pull down to 3.5 lbs but the reset was to light for my liking. With the return spring removed the pull went up to 4 lbs. I'm happy with the feel and will leave it there. The factory weithgt was 5.25 lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 I installed the Competition AEK on my M&P 9 Pro, the trigger pull was much improved. The installation was pain free, just don't lose the small parts (Putting the sear housing in a gallon plastic bag and gently clamping it down in a small vise proved to be a smart move) After taking the gun out and shooting it from rest, I found that the sear/striker engagement was still too stiff for my taste as it had a very sharp transition when the sear started moving. After cutting three coils from the Apex striker spring, the pull is much smoother. I ordered a couple spare Apex springs from SSS to experiment with and see just where the sweet spot is, but I'm pretty happy with where it is right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flork Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 After taking the gun out and shooting it from rest, I found that the sear/striker engagement was still too stiff for my taste as it had a very sharp transition when the sear started moving. You might consider carefully polishing your Striker engagement surface. If it got a little divot in it from the original Sear, that could produce the heavier transition you're describing. Is there any chance you reinstalled the factory Sear Spring? The Comp Sear Spring is lighter than the factory Sear Spring. If you're able to measure your trigger pull weight, I'd be interested to see what it breaks at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 Unfortunately I don't have a gauge for it, I'll ask my gunsmith if he can check it next time I stop by. I very gently polished the striker back when I had the original parts in, I might make another light pass though. I don't think I would've mixed the parts up as I took my time and did one thing at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flork Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 Got cha. If you don't mind, please PM me the results of the weight test. Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Using a high-tech finely tuned precision trigger pull gauge made with a coat hanger, a plastic bag, some bullets, and an electronic kitchen scale this afternoon the pull came to a consistent 2lb 1oz, give or take 124gr I got the spare springs from SSS today, so in a few weeks I hope to play a bit with them and see what happens to trigger pull when you start cutting coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flork Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Well, you certainly have the right spring set in your gun. Thanks for the update. I was concerned that you may have received the incorrect Sear Spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffWard Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 I sent mine to Dan Burwell before Apex even came on the market. I've shot BOTH... My gun with a Burwell modded trigger, and the Apex. The Apex is much nice than stock, but not NEAR Dan's work. The big difference is Dan did an overtravel stop in mine, so the trigger stops immediately after sear release, with NO increase in pre-travel. If you haven't felt the difference, you wouldn't understand. "Tactile reset" is a silly concept to me... Tactile FEEL and a solid CLICK to the reset is nice, when you're fondling a gun and checking the reset LENGTH. But with live ammo at SPEED, you don't feel a damn thing with any gun. You sure as hell aren't going to HEAR it. Example: Take a nice Glock with a really crisp reset, put on your ear-muffs... test it. The click is gone! Now add a gunshot... Reset distance is critical to speed shooting. Reset "feel" and "sound" are nice while gun-f-ing around the safe table, but mean NOTHING mid-stage.... Send it to Burwell, get it back, and smile... Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gng4life Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 I just installed the springs/sear so far and I went from 4.8 lbs to 2.7 lbs. I imagine when I put the striker spring and USB in, is should drop a little more. Wow! What a difference! I do wish the take up was shorter but it is a world of difference so far. I am having a tough time with that FRE!! I have broken two punches so far trying to get the roll pin out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flork Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 The FRE has proven to be a really tough one for most people. Try dripping some penetrating lube on to it like Kroil or even some gun oil. Use a short stubby punch like a nail set to get it started then use a longer one to punch it all the way out. I've had my best luck with a light Jeweler's hammer with quick,sharp taps on the punch. If you continue having trouble email me at scott@apextactical.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flork Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 (edited) Here's a shot of my punches and hammer I use to remove the extractors on the M&P Edited November 18, 2010 by Flork Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gng4life Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 The FRE has proven to be a really tough one for most people. Try dripping some penetrating lube on to it like Kroil or even some gun oil. Use a short stubby punch like a nail set to get it started then use a longer one to punch it all the way out. I've had my best luck with a light Jeweler's hammer with quick,sharp taps on the punch. If you continue having trouble email me at scott@apextactical.com Thanks Scott! You saved me a phone call to your office I did put some gun oil on it but still won't budge and broke two pin punches last night. I'll go out and get a nail set and get another punch. Thanks again and I'm loving the trigger already!! I'll be sending a revolver to you guys soon also... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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