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Lee Pro 1000 Tip & Tricks


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After several weeks I finally gave up on the priming system on the Lee 1000 Progressive. I used a Lyman Turret press in the 70s and 80s with little or no trouble. When I decided to get back into the hobby I talked myself into the Lee 1000, but boy I wish I had gone a different direction. I can't believe how cheap and poorly made this priming system is. Nothing but problems; no primer, primer in sideways, flipped primer, jammed up press due to floating primers. Enough is enough. I removed the primer seating rod and disabled it completely. I then purchased the Lee hand priming system. My new loading procedure is this for .44 SPL:

1. Using the Lee 1000 as a single stage I deprime and size the cases.

2. Cases are tumble cleaned.

3. Hand prime all the cases with the Lee Hand Priming tool.

4. Load cases into the case feeder on the Lee 1000 and remove the Sizer/decapper die.

5. Use the Lee 1000 as a progressive press for all other stages.

With the priming stage eliminated, the press works great. I'm pretty ticked off about the quality of that system but at least now I can work around it and still produce good ammo.

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After several weeks I finally gave up on the priming system on the Lee 1000 Progressive. I used a Lyman Turret press in the 70s and 80s with little or no trouble. When I decided to get back into the hobby I talked myself into the Lee 1000, but boy I wish I had gone a different direction. I can't believe how cheap and poorly made this priming system is. Nothing but problems; no primer, primer in sideways, flipped primer, jammed up press due to floating primers. Enough is enough. I removed the primer seating rod and disabled it completely. I then purchased the Lee hand priming system. My new loading procedure is this for .44 SPL:

1. Using the Lee 1000 as a single stage I deprime and size the cases.

2. Cases are tumble cleaned.

3. Hand prime all the cases with the Lee Hand Priming tool.

4. Load cases into the case feeder on the Lee 1000 and remove the Sizer/decapper die.

5. Use the Lee 1000 as a progressive press for all other stages.

With the priming stage eliminated, the press works great. I'm pretty ticked off about the quality of that system but at least now I can work around it and still produce good ammo.

On Tuesday, 8/23/11, I loaded 545 rounds of 40 S$W. Took me 2 hours and 45 minutes (that is taking my time). While running them through the case gauge, yesterday, I found one round without a primer. 544 out of 545. I'm just say'n ;)

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That's great but I've been all over the internet looking for a solution and found the same thing over and over. The priming system is buggy at best and unusable at the worst. I've tried a number of 'fixes' and nothing works. I'm sure there are some that do, but from what I've been able to find those are the exception, not the rule. Sorry to be so negative, but facts is facts. The other day I was on Lee's web site and checking their You Tube videos. After playing one of them on the priming system, another person's video came up in its place. He was trying to show how the 1000 worked and he ended up stopping twice to tear down and clean out the press due to priming problems. He was having the same problems I had and was just as happy about it.

Just saying.

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That's great but I've been all over the internet looking for a solution and found the same thing over and over. The priming system is buggy at best and unusable at the worst. I've tried a number of 'fixes' and nothing works. I'm sure there are some that do, but from what I've been able to find those are the exception, not the rule. Sorry to be so negative, but facts is facts. The other day I was on Lee's web site and checking their You Tube videos. After playing one of them on the priming system, another person's video came up in its place. He was trying to show how the 1000 worked and he ended up stopping twice to tear down and clean out the press due to priming problems. He was having the same problems I had and was just as happy about it.

Just saying.

I haven't a clue where you are located, Don. But, if you are within a reasonable traveling distance of Malta, Ohio I would be happy to help you make your Pro 1000 run.

The simplest of things are often the biggest problems.

Example #1: my son-in-law would put all the primers in the primer tray that he could fit. It kept jamming. Why? Too much weight! 100, or less, is a full load.

Example #2: the son-in-law again . . . who drove me nuts with this one. Thought I would never break him of this! He would notice brass / powder / bullets were low, so he would stop to refill. Problem was, he would not finish the cycle, seating that last primer. When he startd up again . . . well, you know the rest of that story.

I am happy to say the son-in-law is now a Pro 1000 pro! I modified his press to make it as simple as possible for him. I shortened the four case feeder tubes so that they hold the same munber of brass as the bullet feeder does bullets. Now when the bullet feeder grabs the last bullet he knows that he must refill both case feeder, bullet feeder and primer tray . . . AFTER COMPLETEING that cycle. He refills the primer tray only with the same number of primers as cases and bullets. So far he has not let the powder hopper run dry. Ha!

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Thanks for the offer, but I'm in Wisconsin. I have totally lost confidence in the priming system and just don't want to fight it anymore. I don't think it's really costing me much more time to hand prime and I'm more assured of the results so I will continue to do it this way. I've loaded 300 rounds this way so far without a single jam, double charge or no charge. I can live with that. For the record, I tried all of your suggestions before giving up. I'm pretty stubborn and don't give up easy. This thing has me befuddled.

Thanks again for your support.

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My Lee pro 1000 loads 9mm pretty good, only issue I am having is powder measurement. I am loading 9mm for major PF and so far .53 disk gives me 6.6gr of Autocomp and .57 disk gives me 7.2gr then the next step give like 7.6gr the steps are too big. I have a charge bar on the way hoping that will solve the problem but any info/advice would be helpful.

Thanks,

Darrell

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My Lee pro 1000 loads 9mm pretty good, only issue I am having is powder measurement. I am loading 9mm for major PF and so far .53 disk gives me 6.6gr of Autocomp and .57 disk gives me 7.2gr then the next step give like 7.6gr the steps are too big. I have a charge bar on the way hoping that will solve the problem but any info/advice would be helpful.

Thanks,

Darrell

Hey Darrell. I had the same problem when trying to throw 5.6 grains of Winchester Super Field. Came up .2 grains short. So, I took some emery cloth (do not recall what grit), rolled it up, inserted it into the disk hole and removed some material. Mind you, I had to reassemble / disassemble the powder system 4 or 5 times. Either I am good, or I just got lucky, as I did not exceed 5.6 grains.

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My Lee pro 1000 loads 9mm pretty good, only issue I am having is powder measurement. I am loading 9mm for major PF and so far .53 disk gives me 6.6gr of Autocomp and .57 disk gives me 7.2gr then the next step give like 7.6gr the steps are too big. I have a charge bar on the way hoping that will solve the problem but any info/advice would be helpful.

Thanks,

Darrell

Hey Darrell. I had the same problem when trying to throw 5.6 grains of Winchester Super Field. Came up .2 grains short. So, I took some emery cloth (do not recall what grit), rolled it up, inserted it into the disk hole and removed some material. Mind you, I had to reassemble / disassemble the powder system 4 or 5 times. Either I am good, or I just got lucky, as I did not exceed 5.6 grains.

I figured I would have to drill it out or open it up somehow. Just need to test the load and see where to go from here.

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I got the micro charge bar. So far it works good I set it to .55 and got 6.9ish gr we will see how consistant it is.

Excellent! Thanks for the feed back. I have one on the self, probably two years old, and still unopened.

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Some tips, not directed at anyone in particular.

The priming system works flawlessly for me now. Most problems can probably be cured with small zip ties on the right rear post to shake the tray, just like the little ribs that are cut into it. I had one carrier that wasn't rubbing against the post enough, and the primers would bridge in the tray. Be sure to use SMALL zip ties, as the large one's seem to be too much. Now both carriers feed fine, JUST HAVE TO KEEP THE TROUGH FULL.

The bullet feeder has been good to me too, as long as I don't overfill the tubes. I drew a line on the tubes at the highest I can fill them and still feed properly. I also did the mod so bullets don't drop if there is no case in that station. You can find that mod on youtube.

There is also a mod for the case collator, for 9mm and smaller cases. Just a square in the middle, also on youtube. I think it was mentioned here, but might not be that clear to someone just starting out on this press.

I keep a can of compressed air nearby (like the cans for blowing out keyboards), and blow out the press every so often. I also do this to the primer trough, anytime it is empty.

I will post up as I think of more tips. The press works, just takes a little fiddling. If you can understand how each component works, you should be able to keep the press running smoothly. I wanted to go "Office Space" on the press the first couple times I tried to use it, just walk away and try again later.

Oh, and you should be alright with the charge bar, but anything under 5 or 6 grains, it doesn't seem to measure consistently.

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Some tips, not directed at anyone in particular.

The priming system works flawlessly for me now. Most problems can probably be cured with small zip ties on the right rear post to shake the tray, just like the little ribs that are cut into it. I had one carrier that wasn't rubbing against the post enough, and the primers would bridge in the tray. Be sure to use SMALL zip ties, as the large one's seem to be too much. Now both carriers feed fine, JUST HAVE TO KEEP THE TROUGH FULL.

The bullet feeder has been good to me too, as long as I don't overfill the tubes. I drew a line on the tubes at the highest I can fill them and still feed properly. I also did the mod so bullets don't drop if there is no case in that station. You can find that mod on youtube.

There is also a mod for the case collator, for 9mm and smaller cases. Just a square in the middle, also on youtube. I think it was mentioned here, but might not be that clear to someone just starting out on this press.

I keep a can of compressed air nearby (like the cans for blowing out keyboards), and blow out the press every so often. I also do this to the primer trough, anytime it is empty.

I will post up as I think of more tips. The press works, just takes a little fiddling. If you can understand how each component works, you should be able to keep the press running smoothly. I wanted to go "Office Space" on the press the first couple times I tried to use it, just walk away and try again later.

Oh, and you should be alright with the charge bar, but anything under 5 or 6 grains, it doesn't seem to measure consistently.

Good stuff, Bill! Thank you for sharing :cheers:

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Has anyone weighed a almost all the powder throws. I had a squib the other night most likely no powder and my fault, but I also seemed to have some under powered loads. So I put the .57 disk in and found this thing throws from 6.9 to 7.38, I am not sure if maybe this powder is just too sticky or what. It's Winchester autocomp kinda flat little flakes. All this pistol reload stuff is weird to me still.

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I've been using the spherical powders, HS-6, which yield better results. Just bought some Titegroup to try.

I think static is the worst part with using flakes. When using clays (flakes), I had decent results wiping the hopper and the drop tube with dryer sheets, that definitely helped. I noticed, before using dryer sheets, the drop tube walls would be lined with powder. Just take the drop tube out, and twist a dryer sheet and feed it through a couple times.

I've also added a baffle to the hopper. This is more for consistency of charges, irregardless of how much the hopper is filled.

In general, I weigh the first few charges till I get a consistent sampling, then check every 20 or 50 rounds, depending on how consistent the charges are. With the spherical powder and baffle, most charges are within one tenth of the target charge, with a few two tenths from the target.

Edited by Potato Chips
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  • 1 month later...

I've been using the spherical powders, HS-6, which yield better results. Just bought some Titegroup to try.

I think static is the worst part with using flakes. When using clays (flakes), I had decent results wiping the hopper and the drop tube with dryer sheets, that definitely helped. I noticed, before using dryer sheets, the drop tube walls would be lined with powder. Just take the drop tube out, and twist a dryer sheet and feed it through a couple times.

I've also added a baffle to the hopper. This is more for consistency of charges, irregardless of how much the hopper is filled.

In general, I weigh the first few charges till I get a consistent sampling, then check every 20 or 50 rounds, depending on how consistent the charges are. With the spherical powder and baffle, most charges are within one tenth of the target charge, with a few two tenths from the target.

Titegroup has been metering well for me @ 3.4 for my 180gn 40s&w and 4.6 for my 155's

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for some reason my bullet feeder took a nose dive on Sunday. had to remove it due to it droping bullets from the finger before the brass could grab it. not sure what the sudden change in function is. im using bayou bullets and guess that the coating is so slick that it is allowing it to slide through. may try to ad some texture to it.

what were yalls fixes for the bullet feeder?

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for some reason my bullet feeder took a nose dive on Sunday. had to remove it due to it droping bullets from the finger before the brass could grab it. not sure what the sudden change in function is. im using bayou bullets and guess that the coating is so slick that it is allowing it to slide through. may try to ad some texture to it.

what were yalls fixes for the bullet feeder?

One thing that can cause the fingers to spread is leaving the fingers retracted. You see, at that position the bullet feeder spreads the fingers to accept the next bullet. Once the fingers "learn" this position they will stay too far apart. When the press is not in use raise the ram to the point where the fingers are directly under the seating die. Leave it it that position.

If my memory is correct, Lee recommends removing the fingers and placing them in a container of hot water for a few minutes. Supposedly they will return to the proper width.

I hope this will fix your problem.

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for some reason my bullet feeder took a nose dive on Sunday. had to remove it due to it droping bullets from the finger before the brass could grab it. not sure what the sudden change in function is. im using bayou bullets and guess that the coating is so slick that it is allowing it to slide through. may try to ad some texture to it.

what were yalls fixes for the bullet feeder?

One thing that can cause the fingers to spread is leaving the fingers retracted. You see, at that position the bullet feeder spreads the fingers to accept the next bullet. Once the fingers "learn" this position they will stay too far apart. When the press is not in use raise the ram to the point where the fingers are directly under the seating die. Leave it it that position.

If my memory is correct, Lee recommends removing the fingers and placing them in a container of hot water for a few minutes. Supposedly they will return to the proper width.

I hope this will fix your problem.

the feeder was only installed for 12 hours before i had a problem. luckily i was able to load quite a bit before it messed up. i will try the hot water trick but not really seeing how it will work. The hot water should make the finger loosen not snap back i thought. i will give it a shot though bc i like the little device.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have had my Pro 1k for several years now. It came setup for 9mm. I have since added .40 and .38 special to the list. I have a couple questions:

1. For .40 S&W, Lee calls out that the 9mm shellplate is also good for .40. BUT when I load the .40's I get a pronounced bulge in one side of the case. After looking everything over it looks like the 9mm shell plate doesn't line up with the centers of the dies when setup for .40. Does anyone know if the 10mm shellplate will fix this? I am still loading the rounds this way because the loaded rounds still chamber check fine.

2. When loading 38 special, the flaring sleeve in the powder measure doesn't allow for enought flare even when dropped to the max. Is this recurring with everyone or was there just a mistake in my dies?

Thanks.

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I have had my Pro 1k for several years now. It came setup for 9mm. I have since added .40 and .38 special to the list. I have a couple questions:

1. For .40 S&W, Lee calls out that the 9mm shellplate is also good for .40. BUT when I load the .40's I get a pronounced bulge in one side of the case. After looking everything over it looks like the 9mm shell plate doesn't line up with the centers of the dies when setup for .40. Does anyone know if the 10mm shellplate will fix this? I am still loading the rounds this way because the loaded rounds still chamber check fine.

2. When loading 38 special, the flaring sleeve in the powder measure doesn't allow for enought flare even when dropped to the max. Is this recurring with everyone or was there just a mistake in my dies?

Thanks.

I had the opposite problem. My LP1K came setup with .40 and 9mm wouldn't quite line up on the decapping/sizing die. A couple of emails to Lee and they suggested just rotating the die carrier one position and re-setting all the dies. Lo and behold it worked and everything lines up perfectly now. Not sure what is causing the bulge for you though.

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