StealthyBlagga Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 I just tried using a Dillon Powder Check Die for loading .223 on my Dillon XL-650, but the small powder sensing rod hangs up on the case mouth almost every time... I have to jiggle it by hand to get it inside the case and on top of the powder. I like this accessory on my pistol ammo loading setups, and would like to have it with my rifle setup too. How can I fix this problem ? Should I try thinning down the brass tip, increase the bevel, or maybe just chop off the brass tip entirely and go with the steel rod body itself ? Has anyone encountered and overcome this issue ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick t Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 I do and I did have the same problem! First I mounted the die like a sizing die to center it, polished the brass tip just rounding the corners on a buffing wheel. Worked for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 Thanks for the tip. I think I have the problem fixed... 1) I checked straightness on the three small tips I have in my parts bin (one comes with each Powder Check kit). I chucked them up in my drill press and picked out the one with the least runout. 2) While spinning the rod in the drill press, I used progressively finer grades of abrasive paper to reshape the tip into a bullet-like profile (see photo below). I finished with very fine wet-and-dry paper wetted with oil, so as to get a smooth, snag-free finish. The photo below shows a before-and-after comparison. The sensor seems to work OK now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DyNo! Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 (edited) No - part of my case inspection is shaking every round to check for squibs (And double charges but not really). You'd have to be Mr. Magoo to double charge most .223 loads. 10+ grains of powder will spill onto your shellplate. Edited May 18, 2010 by DyNo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 No - part of my case inspection is shaking every round to check for squibs (And double charges but not really). You'd have to be Mr. Magoo to double charge most .223 loads. 10+ grains of powder will spill onto your shellplate. Yeah, squibs are my concern. Not sure about the "shaking the case" thing . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 (edited) Shaking the case wouldnt work for me as my favorite loads are slightly compressed. Being that full of powder also makes it unnecessary to use a powder check die as you can easily use the old Mark I eyeball to check the level. I do like the PC die for the small charges of fast pistol powders though. Edited May 19, 2010 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3gunnah Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 I have found mine to be great for loading .223 never had any hang ups. But I have noticed that it helps with powder loss due to case shaking as the shellplate moves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 But I have noticed that it helps with powder loss due to case shaking as the shellplate moves. In what way? The check plunger is only on top of the powder during the bottom of the down stroke and the shell plate moves at the top of the up stroke. It seems if the plunger is tamping the powder down enough to make a difference it would give irregular readings as mine are pretty picky about over/under charges. What powder do you use for .223? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anm2_man Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the tip. I think I have the problem fixed... 1) I checked straightness on the three small tips I have in my parts bin (one comes with each Powder Check kit). I chucked them up in my drill press and picked out the one with the least runout. 2) While spinning the rod in the drill press, I used progressively finer grades of abrasive paper to reshape the tip into a bullet-like profile (see photo below). I finished with very fine wet-and-dry paper wetted with oil, so as to get a smooth, snag-free finish. The photo below shows a before-and-after comparison. The sensor seems to work OK now StealthyBagga - Seen your other posts and this is again real good. I've been reloading for over 20 years, and still learn something every day. I just started using the Dillon Powder Check system. Had a major catastrophe recently and blew up a gun due to an over charged load. It has cost me alot of money to get it fixed, but since I have started using the PwdCHk (only on 30-06) It really tells you what the powder charge is doing. After loading 3.5k of 30-06, I had a bunch of false alarms using this tool (all due to the brass moving). I envision the same problem (but only worse) for .223. I'll be fixing my rods up soon. Again Thanks Edited May 19, 2010 by anm2_man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3gunnah Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 But I have noticed that it helps with powder loss due to case shaking as the shellplate moves. In what way? The check plunger is only on top of the powder during the bottom of the down stroke and the shell plate moves at the top of the up stroke. It seems if the plunger is tamping the powder down enough to make a difference it would give irregular readings as mine are pretty picky about over/under charges. What powder do you use for .223? I use BL-C2. What I see is that it knocks the powder off the mouth of the case and it does seem to "push" the powder down a little. I have loaded several thousand rounds with my 650 using the checker. I only use it for rifle rounds. most of my buddys who have a 650 Hate the powder checker, they say it beeps at them all the time. I think with good adjustements it works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SixBarSpur Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 I would be cautious about using a bullet shaped tip for the powder check. The standard tips have a flat end for a reason; to give more consistent readings when dropping onto loose powder. I'd be concerned about a bullet tip being more erratic when plunging into a powder. My 2 cents. That said, I've loaded a few thousand .223s since getting my 650 and have never had a problem with the power check plunger dropping into the casemouth. Is the locknut on the plunger tight and the rod straight? As you stated, you did find runout in some rods...this would be a problem; even if locked down. One of my observation rituals during loading is to see, either directly or peripherally (but always consciously), that the powercheck plunger actually rises up and activates the alarm body. Even if I get a 'chirp', I know there is a charge of powder in the case. I'm loading for 3-Gun, not bullseye after all. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted May 22, 2010 Author Share Posted May 22, 2010 UPDATE: I've loaded several hundred rounds of .223 using the new bullet-tip sensor rod, and it works well. It seems to be very consistent and seldom gives a false alarm. Even if it is digging into the powder a bit (which I doubt given how densely AA2230 sits and the narrowness of the case), it seems to be doing so consistently. I like knowing that the powder check die is confirming the presence of powder at about the right level... as mentioned above, I'm shooting 3-gun, not high-power, so I mainly need to know I don't have a squib. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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