cletus9mm Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 if i were to change my cmore serendipity sight to a railway or slide ride and get a new one sided mount, is there a way to fill in the holes left on the ejection side of the gun? has anybody done this with enough success to make it look like holes were never drilled in the frame? the gun is currently blued and ideally i would like to end up cold blueing whatever fills in the holes. i know its asking a lot, but i'm hoping someone here as had this "problem" and fixed it with good/great results. thank you all for your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 I'm not gun smith but I think you really only have 2 options, welding or screws. I just got a old 38 super factory comp springfield and it had a serendipity on it and I'm wanting to do the same to the extra holes as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trini Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 I have a Springfield SS frame that was used as a pin gun and had the 10 holes (5 each side) welded up and it is very hard to see any of the work done. The guy who did this said he wasn't sure if he would do it again cause it was a lot of work. I'm glad he did mine. It can be done but you'll have to find a smith willing to do it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus9mm Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 yeah, i'm certainly no smith either but those two ideas came to me too. not sure if welding will disturb the tempering of the steel or not. silver solder came to mind, but that's not going to take cold blue. and i can't think of any screw that will wind up flush with the gun unless the holes are counter sunk. i could live with screws close to flush though, and i think that might be the cheapest most elegant solution. i suppose i'll start the hunt for screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 yeah, i'm certainly no smith either but those two ideas came to me too. not sure if welding will disturb the tempering of the steel or not. silver solder came to mind, but that's not going to take cold blue. and i can't think of any screw that will wind up flush with the gun unless the holes are counter sunk. i could live with screws close to flush though, and i think that might be the cheapest most elegant solution. i suppose i'll start the hunt for screws. When I was thinking screws I was thinking ones with out heads and the grinding them flush and rebluing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussB Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Button head screws would look OK, but welding up the holes would be the best way to cover them up http://www.mcmaster.com/ has them...I'll ASSume they're 6-40 threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgunz11 Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 (edited) Or locktite in a threaded rod and dremel flush, for those that want to DIY and can't weld it. http://www.mcmaster....d-studs/=6umjwp Edited April 28, 2010 by kgunz11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus9mm Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 5-40 i believe. the screw idea with some green loctite is getting pretty appealing. its certainly in the budget and easily reversible. there are some 5-40 set screws that i found that steel1212 mentioned and i'm thinking that has potential to look decent too. i will grind those flush with the inside of the dust cover and leave the outside alone in case i ever think of spending the dime to get it welded up. how much did the welding set you back if i can ask? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockcomma Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 I plugged the holes on the right side of my hard chromed gun with 5-40 stainless set screws installed from the inside you can put the allen wrench through the holes on the left side and screw them in until they are flush. I ground the tip flat, bead blasted them and installed them with Loctite 271 they blend in well I think the same set screw in carbon steel and blued would be even less noticeable. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus9mm Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 That sounds like the best idea yet glockcomma. Thanks a bunch for the input. How did you get the ends of the screws ground perfectly flat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockcomma Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 I put an allen wrench in the set screw and taped the set screw to the wrench and touched it to a disc sander. If you have a piece of hard steel that you can tap 5-40 you can run the screw above the surface and file off the tip that should keep it flat. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 Hello: Or you could mill slots where the holes are to make a nice design. I believe someone is doing that now and it looks good. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grayguns Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 (edited) We solve this problem by using a copper rod as a backstop and heat sink, and weld these holes with a compatible filler rod before dressing them. It IS a fair amount of work, but it's a good way to do it if appearance is important. I will say that you will likely not be pleased with the cold blue touch up, no matter what method you employ. If you get stuck, let me know and I'll do this as a favour for you for the cost of the UPS to shlep the thing here to the GGI Secret Volcano Base and back. -Bruce / Grayguns Inc. / grayguns.com Edited May 6, 2010 by grayguns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus9mm Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 Bruce, Wow man. That's extremely kind of you to offer your time like that. I'm gonna try the set screw method first because the gun is by no means a showpiece. Its my "work" open gun. If however I hate the way it looks I may take you up on your offer. I don't expect you to donate your time for free though. If work gets sent your way ill make sure you're compensated somehow. Thank you again for the kind gesture, and Thanks for being a part of what makes this forum so great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bret Heidkamp Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 I've had holes in the frame filled by Mike Johnson - Shooting Specialties up in Havre, Mt. He uses a technique that I have not seen anyone else do. It is some sort of a pressed in metal fill. It looks completely smooth and level with the frame. I have a few on an old frame that were then keyholed with a fresh drilled and threaded hole, and the fill doesn't pull out. That was about 10 years ago, and those fills are still perfectly flush and tight. It is kind of like a blind rivet that is perfectly flush inside and out. Works awesome, not sure how it is done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m134b Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 First post, and something I know a little about The "how it's done" is the easy part! the hard part is doin' it right! First, get some screws of the appropriate length. Heat them up to anneal them and make them soft enough to "peen". Then Countersink the offending holes until you have a chamfer that removes ONLY the thread that is closest to the surface, amy more and you have a LOT of peening to fill it, any less and it won't fill properly. Grind the ends off the screws you're going to use, reasonably true is good enough... screw them into the holes, about .075 to .100 over the surface you're blending to, using some ultra heavy duty stupid strong loc-tite as you go. Support the frame from inside the dust cover to keep from crushing it... This is IMPORTANT! Use a small ball peen hammer to pound the screw until it expands to fill the chamfer you cut. File flush, and finish. Done right you will not be able to see the repair. Done wrong.... well, that's expensive! Hope this helps, perform at your own risk! Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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