hjustein Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 (edited) Is there a button on the lifter or does it just go up? Did it ever catch your thumb? Any issues with light loads, you mentioned high brass being ok. Sorry for all the questions, this is the first thread I've found that isn't 3+ years old. There is no button on the lifter. It does not catch my thumb, but YMMV on that. It does have a bolt hold open/bolt release button on the starboard side. You only use the bolt release button if you run the gun dry. In that case, the fastest way to get the gun back into action is to drop a shell into the ejection port and hit the bolt release. Any other time you just load through the loading gate as normal. I havent found any loads that won't cycle the gun yet, but I havent tried any reduced recoil birdshot yet. I might try some this evening as I just picked some up. I have tried reduced recoil 7/8 oz, 1300 fps slugs and they run great. They work much better than high brass slugs which cycle the gun way too hard and cause feed issues. IMO the gas system on this gun is not appropriate for magnum slugs, not that there is any good reason to use this gun with them anyway. Edited March 27, 2011 by hjustein Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjustein Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 (edited) AAARRRGGHH! My ffl wasn't home when UPS stopped by. The gun showed up a day early but pointlessly. I could have had it totally dialed by match time Saturday morning. I'm going to pick it up at lunch time tomorrow, run it out to the range with some slugs, sight them in, put on the mag tube Friday night, and hope for the best. I have the nordic tube for the remington. Totally forgot reading that Nordic is making CZ specific tubes now and didn't call them direct. I have some headset spacers from my stash of bike parts that should keep me from having to cut down the tube on the gun. We'll see. I promise I'll do my best to try to get some pics on here ASAP. HJUSTEIN, I'll be contacting you in a few days in regard to the trigger job you did. You should post some pics to this forum to get some people jazzed up on it. On the trigger job, there isn't much to it really, the gun has a pretty standard hammer/trigger/disconnector group. All I did was remove some material from the sear engagement area to shorten/lighten the pull and polish up all the parts that make sliding contact. The FCG pops out easily with one pin, it is a really simple gun to work on. Here is a pic I found of the FCG: In the pic you can see the engagement surfaces that need attention. You can play with the engagement lengths and angles a decent amount as they are pretty generous from the factory. If you have never messed with a FCG like this, I would very much suggest you practice first on a few AR-15 triggers as they work the same and are cheap to replace if you screw them up. Make sure you leave enough material on the engagement areas that the sear and dico will always do their job, otherwise you will get hammer follow which can possibly result in uncontrolled followup shots at the cyclic rate of the gun. The ammo management and legal issues that arise in such a situation make it in your best interest to work slowly and check function often when doing any trigger work. It is a lot easier to take metal off than it is to put it back on. Also, just as an FYI, doing trigger work like this will reduce the wear life of the trigger components as you are removing material from the wear surfaces of the parts. Whether or not it will be enough to matter is a call you will have to make on a case by case basis, but if you are a competitive shooter it never hurts to have a spare hammer, trigger, and disconnector on hand anyway. I have put thousands upon thousands of rounds through my worked triggers without any issues, but it is something to consider. Edited March 27, 2011 by hjustein Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjustein Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Probably a sharp edge on the chamber that got flaked off by the brass of a shell. It was shaped like that. I shot it today in my first full-on 3-gun match. I still haven't figured out all the intricacies of how to load it and work the lifter. My first stage with it the RO said, "You figure that thing out and you'll be a good shotgunner. That gun is FAST." I had one shell get flipped in the chamber during ejection....I was able to just turn the gun and dump it out. I also had a couple rounds not go into battery all the way. They could have been rounds I picked up off the ground. I shot mix of crap I had sitting around. Some high brass stuff I used worked awesome! I can't believe how many rounds of live ammo I picked up. I'll order the benelli nova nut this week. It cycled everything in the tube. I didn't notice any hang ups. I'm going to add a butt pad to it and go ahead and mount the Williams Universal sights and see how I like them. It was a great match today despite some high winds and dust. Lots of first time 3-gunners with borrowed equipment. We all had a blast and I'm stoked that my shotgun worked ok. I can't wait to get it dialed in and really learn how to shoot it REALLY fast. I would be willing to bet that shooting a few hundred more rounds through the gun and giving it a thorough cleaning will prevent the sluggish ejection and bolt failing to close. Mine did that a few times at first, but after breaking in it has been flawless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastmtnbiker33w Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Good to know that the Nova barrel nut fits correctly. I apologize to the guys who bought the Remington nut based upon my post, I kinda figured the Remington nut might have been a slightly different thread pitch since it got so tight, but it worked and that is all that mattered to me. If I had my head on straight last week I would have called Nordic before I placed my order with Midway. It's definitely a different pitch. I put a spacer in so I wouldn't have to completely trash the remington nut but it's marred up pretty bad on the outside. Should still work great on a remington hopefully so I can sell it to someone. Midway doesn't have the Nova nut in stock. I'm also looking for a larger bolt handle and bolt release button. I figure I can install an Arredondo mag release button pretty easily myself. The bolt handle will be tough for me to make if nobody makes one for it. My school has a metal shop and kids are always looking for projects so I may have to go with that if nobody knows where to get a bolt handle. Any clues? I also think the lifter could be a bit longer. Maybe 6 or 7 mm. I'll have to do some searching to see if that's something that gets added or just make a new lifter. Here's some pics of the gun sans nordic tube. I took it off today and put the Williams sights on. I think I'll like those as it was hard to get down on the rib to sight stuff. The Williams are in the right spot. I'll be getting a Pachmeyer or Hogue for a permanent recoil pad. That slip on is too soft and only adds a half inch or so on the LOP. I'm 6'5" and could use another 1" or so on the buttstock even though it's advertised as 14". I'm pretty stoked to get into an auto shotgun out of the box for under $400. After the butt pad and correct tube nut I'll still be under $500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastmtnbiker33w Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 On the trigger job, there isn't much to it really, the gun has a pretty standard hammer/trigger/disconnector group. All I did was remove some material from the sear engagement area to shorten/lighten the pull and polish up all the parts that make sliding contact. The FCG pops out easily with one pin, it is a really simple gun to work on. Here is a pic I found of the FCG: In the pic you can see the engagement surfaces that need attention. You can play with the engagement lengths and angles a decent amount as they are pretty generous from the factory. If you have never messed with a FCG like this, I would very much suggest you practice first on a few AR-15 triggers as they work the same and are cheap to replace if you screw them up. Make sure you leave enough material on the engagement areas that the sear and dico will always do their job, otherwise you will get hammer follow which can possibly result in uncontrolled followup shots at the cyclic rate of the gun. The ammo management and legal issues that arise in such a situation make it in your best interest to work slowly and check function often when doing any trigger work. It is a lot easier to take metal off than it is to put it back on. Also, just as an FYI, doing trigger work like this will reduce the wear life of the trigger components as you are removing material from the wear surfaces of the parts. Whether or not it will be enough to matter is a call you will have to make on a case by case basis, but if you are a competitive shooter it never hurts to have a spare hammer, trigger, and disconnector on hand anyway. I have put thousands upon thousands of rounds through my worked triggers without any issues, but it is something to consider. I took the trigger group out today when I worked on the loading port. Do you think the sear and disconnector are chrome plated? Or is it just really shiny metal?....maybe stainless? I didn't have many complaints with the trigger. It's a shotgun. Precision isn't really necessary. Although I did have some serious anticipation on the last slug rounds of the day. Nothing like throwing dollar bills downrange at a steel plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastmtnbiker33w Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 (edited) Finally able to get the gun out to the range today to sight in the Williams Sights. I went through way too many slugs to get that thing zeroed at 50 yards. Ouch. Next time I buy slugs they'll be managed recoil or low recoil. Luckily our local matches only require a couple slug rounds every match. I know some people think the shorter barrel vs. longer mag tube looks funny, but I can't tell when I'm shooting it. Did I mention how much I love shooting this thing? It is fast. Guy sharing the range with me had a brand new Benelli and I let him shoot a few rounds through my gun. He was impressed. I let him know he could have 3 CZ's for the price of his Benelli. His gun was definitely prettier though. It was good to actually be able to check out the patterns with some repeated firings. To start off I put on the full choke to make sure the pattern was even close to my POA. Then I went through 8 slugs with the modified choke and finally got the sights adjusted correctly. Then I ripped 9 rounds straight as fast as possible. I'll never own a pump again. I like this gun a lot and I'm glad I didn't spend the next couple of months saving more money for something different. I've been practicing loading....strong hand I can do without catching my thumb on the lifter. I've got some of my students in the metal shop at the school where I teach working on a bolt handle. I kind of botched the butt pad, but once again, I can't tell while I'm shooting. It shoulders quickly and the LOP is perfect now. The pad helps a bit with those slugs. Now I'll save a few coins for a side saddle and it will be ready to roll. Edited April 17, 2011 by fastmtnbiker33w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkoenig Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 Very cool, I'm glad to see another affordable autoloader that works for 3 gun. That should help bring more people into the sport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastmtnbiker33w Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 (edited) Shot 2 rounds of 5-Stand yesterday....I sucked and only hit 6 birds each round. Need more practice on that for sure. Today had a tactical match and it kicked ass until I borrowed 3 rounds of remington low recoil buck for a stage. It did NOT like it. Would cycle it through and eject the empty. It did clean a 6 plate rack with 4 shots! Edited April 24, 2011 by fastmtnbiker33w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksmirk Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 So how's the CZ running for you today? I have one we have been working with and I'm just wondering how your reliablity has been, anything broke on you or any negatives I should watch for? I have mine running the 2 3/4 dram loads now but it took a little work to get there as I haven't found a light recoil spring yet but I got around that :-) anyway just checking if you have done anymore modifications you would like to share. Later, Kirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastmtnbiker33w Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 (edited) I'm down to shooting it only one match a month with one practice day before each match, but no problems. I'm running 3 1/4 dram game loads and hunting slugs. Only once did it fail to eject and that was before summer. I haven't cleaned it in over 6 months and it ran better than I did at last month's match. I'll wait for some Christmas money before I send the lifter off to get it extended. If they were available, I'd buy an extended nordic style charging handle now. It's the only thing I wished it had. Edited October 9, 2011 by fastmtnbiker33w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suesstech Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 (edited) On the bolt handle you can mate up a Benelli BFB to the stock CZ bolt handle. Both have a flat surface that is perfect to weld the two together. I'm having that done as we speak. I'll post pics when it's complete. CZ USA sells spare stock bolt handles. The stock one was cheese grading my index finger during matches. http://shop.nordiccomp.com/NC-BFB-Big-Fat-Benelli-M1-M2-Bolt-Operating-Handle-BOH-BFB-12-00.htm Edited October 9, 2011 by suesstech Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksmirk Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 Yes the bolt handle kinda sucks but I found that if you can count correctly you don't need that handle but 2 times a stage LOL good to hear it's still running good. Ryan post a pic when you get a chance I'd like to see your work and keep me posted on the mods. Later, Kirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kampr Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 "I'm having that done as we speak." Check that,.....decided to go a different route. I'll get yours to you later this week. In the mean time, here's a sneak peek......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suesstech Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Thanks Dale, lookin good...and yes as Dale says, we are going a different route. Can't wait to get mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksmirk Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Interesting bolt handle! is it solid or does it rotate? let us know how it works. Later, Kirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschultz Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Dale what kind of bolt release did you use. Schultz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschultz Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Kampr What kind of bolt release button is that. Schultz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 (edited) Kampr What kind of bolt release button is that. Schultz Arredondo Edited October 13, 2011 by StealthyBlagga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kampr Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Stealthy has is right. Before mounting, pay attention to the original bolt releases' position with the bolt closed and open. You want to drill & tap at a slight angle so the forward part of the Arredondo releases the bolt and the rear will activate the shell stop. Makes unloading the tube, a breeze. If I get a chance this weekend, I’ll post some pic’s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kampr Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Interesting bolt handle! is it solid or does it rotate? let us know how it works. Later, Kirk It is solid, does not rotate. Weighs about the same as a "BFB", but the majority of the mass is closer to the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschultz Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Kampr thanks I have been looking at the Berreta bolt release and they look like they are the same as the CZ. Another question does the heiver bolt handle affect operation of the gun. Schultz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burningsquirrels Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 subscribed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kampr Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 I have been looking at the Berreta bolt release and they look like they are the same as the CZ.Schultz Couldn’t tell you, all my spaghetti auto’s are of the other persuasion. (and at $60,I doubt I’d be looking anytime soon,….especially on a $400 shotgun.) Another question does the heiver bolt handle affect operation of the gun.Schultz Um,…no I haven’t seen it,... but mounting a Hurst handle on it might make it miss a shift! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbon9 Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 (edited) Stealthy has is right. Before mounting, pay attention to the original bolt releases' position with the bolt closed and open. You want to drill & tap at a slight angle so the forward part of the Arredondo releases the bolt and the rear will activate the shell stop. Makes unloading the tube, a breeze. If I get a chance this weekend, I’ll post some pic’s. That sounds ingenious!!! I would really like to see pics. ....and if you made any extra bolt handles, I would love to buy one from you. PM me if you want to sell one. Edited October 14, 2011 by carbon9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksmirk Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 I just wonder how many folks own these cheap ass shotguns besides me? makes ya wonder about making parts unless there is a site or two that offer extra goodies that the 3-gun budget minded crowd can afford. From all the playing around with mine most of the Benelli stuff will screw right in or mate up. Kampr, sschultz what choke tube are you guys using if you don't mind me asking? I'm guessing an M1? I have been thinking about an extended tube just to get it square or closer to the end of the extension tube. Later, Kirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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