Jman Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 (edited) It works. Pain in the ass, but works just fine. Bit of technique involved. Use One-Shot. Start the mouth of the case in the die, not on the push pin. A small tap with the push pin to get things going before the final push. Sort of like starting a finish nail. The plastic case catcher is in the $h!t can. Though things did appeared kind of weird and redish when you looked through it. Handles a small operation like mine(~300 rounds a week). Not to interested in doing any more with it. Brass runs through the Dillon sizer/de-primer beautifully. Gauges perfect. Jim Edited March 9, 2010 by Jman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 (edited) Jim, What die are you pushing he cases through? Tony Edited March 13, 2010 by TonyT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 Jim, What die are you pushing he cases through? Tony The .40 S&W Lee Factory Crimp Die with the adjustment screw and crimp sleeve removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 More on the Bulge Buster http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/1855.pdf Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 I'm lost ............... what are you doing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share Posted March 14, 2010 I'm lost ............... what are you doing? It's just a way of removing the bulge on Glocked brass. Similar to the Redding GRX Push Thru Base Sizing Die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaGunner Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 A homemade way to fix glock bulged brass. Cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezco Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 Works for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earlbob Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 so which one is the best way to go the Redding GRX or the Lee? earl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share Posted March 14, 2010 Flip of the coin IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 I'm lost ............... Again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 Why not just put the cap back on the LEE FCD and use it like it was designed. I put one in my 650 in the very last station and it's been working fine for me for the last few years. I think it was $12 from Midway or something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share Posted March 14, 2010 Why not just put the cap back on the LEE FCD and use it like it was designed. I put one in my 650 in the very last station and it's been working fine for me for the last few years. I think it was $12 from Midway or something like that. Lee Precision came up with an additional, clever use for the FCD body only. Not being used as a crimp die at all. Sort of a poor mans Case Pro. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 In close to 15 years of loading glocked .40 brass I haven't found one case that couldn't be resized down properly with my standard Lee 40/10mm sizing die. With the standard $16 die screwed down all the way to the shellplate and a quarter turn extra it will resize the worst cases so I can put them in a case gauge both front and backwards. Just something cheaper to try.... DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share Posted March 14, 2010 (edited) My experience is than same Doug, and then some. Recently went to a fully progressive press and found that my Lee re-sizer/decappers were not very compatible. Last December I had a case head separation in my G35. No likely. Since then have re-doubled my case inspection efforts. While doing so I run my cases through the new Lee kit before they make it to the case feeder. Makes for a very smooth loading process. I'm all about smooth. Anyway #27,683 in ways to skin a cat. Jim Edited March 14, 2010 by Jman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobfromME Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 (edited) Good morning, guys, I've been loading Glock-shot 40 S&W on a Dillon using RCBS dies for sizing and bullet seating but I've used the Lee Factory Crimp die at the last station. Roughly 20% won't drop into a Wilson case gage reliably. However, they drop into a Lone Wolf barrel fine. They shoot fine in the Glock barrel (no surprise there), but I haven't shot the Lone Wolf barrel yet, so take what I've said with a grain of salt. As soon as the range opens back up (too much snow on the road), I'll give a bit better feedback. All my best, Rob Edited March 19, 2010 by RobfromME Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninefan Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 My setup: Station 1 - Hornady resize die Station 2 - EGW U-die Station 5 - Hornady taper crimp die This fixes nearly all brass (say 1% won't won't chamber check due to burrs on extractor rim), as long as there isn't any "junk brass" in there. Some headstamps (S&B, GFL, A-MERC, nny and others) just want to give problems. Sometimes 30-50% of those won't chamber check in the 2011 no matter what I do. If I know there is a large quantity of those headstamps in a lot I am using I will sort them out by hand. It doesn't seem to matter if the "good" headstamps were shot through a Glock or not, they all chamber check fine after running em through the press. I'm almost positive that that all of the rounds I set aside would shoot through a Glock chamber (and some will shoot through the 2011, but others will stop it up). Unfortunately they are loaded too long for a .40 S&W Glock (1.190"). Seating them back to 1.135" would put them well over max pressure for 40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKMAN Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 More on the Bulge Buster http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/1855.pdf Jim Yeah, but that says: Do not use the Bulge Buster Kit to reload for the 40 S&W Glock or similar guns with chambers that do not fully support the cartridge due to the intrusion of the feed ramp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidnal Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 For .40 I use a Dillon to resize/deprime in stage 1 and then the U-Die in stage 2. After the "double punch" the Glock brass isn't a problem...even in my SGI's tight chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbxdm9 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Sure wish one was available for 9mm. I have to pitch 80% of the brass I collect at my club as it bulges when I resize. I guess the 9mm cartridge might be too tapered for a solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidnal Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Sure wish one was available for 9mm. I have to pitch 80% of the brass I collect at my club as it bulges when I resize. I guess the 9mm cartridge might be too tapered for a solution. The Lee Undersize die gets rid of the bulge on the 9mm completely but it makes the press "stick" a little on the upward pull of the handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 More on the Bulge Buster http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/1855.pdf Jim Yeah, but that says: Do not use the Bulge Buster Kit to reload for the 40 S&W Glock or similar guns with chambers that do not fully support the cartridge due to the intrusion of the feed ramp. Most (if not all) gun makers warn against the use of reloads. Lee is being prudent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WatchmanUSA Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 (edited) More on the Bulge Buster http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/1855.pdf Jim Yeah, but that says: Do not use the Bulge Buster Kit to reload for the 40 S&W Glock or similar guns with chambers that do not fully support the cartridge due to the intrusion of the feed ramp. Most (if not all) gun makers warn against the use of reloads. Lee is being prudent. OK, I couldn't let this one pass. I understand that a gun manufacturer would warn against using reloads in their firearms. Obviously, they don't want to be held responsible for someone else's stupidity. However, don't you find it odd that a manufacturer of reloading equipment would recommend that you don't reload? I'm just askin'... Edited March 20, 2010 by WatchmanUSA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 More on the Bulge Buster http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/1855.pdf Jim Yeah, but that says: Do not use the Bulge Buster Kit to reload for the 40 S&W Glock or similar guns with chambers that do not fully support the cartridge due to the intrusion of the feed ramp. Most (if not all) gun makers warn against the use of reloads. Lee is being prudent. OK, I couldn't let this one pass. I understand that a gun manufacturer would warn against using reloads in their firearms. Obviously, they don't want to be held responsible for someone else's stupidity. However, don't you find it odd that a manufacturer of reloading equipment would recommend that you don't reload? I'm just askin'... Can't remember who or where but I've seen other reloading sources specifically recommend against reloading for Glock .40's. Maybe my Lyman manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 don't you find it odd that a manufacturer of reloading equipment would recommend that you don't reload? I'm just askin' Definitely a strange disclaimer. Sign of the times I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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