Dan-O-Mite Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 (edited) Well I had it all worked out with my gun dealer. He was going to bring in 2 Limited Custom II, black with the slide cut outs and aluminum grips, and he was going to let me see both of them so I could pick the one I wanted. I wanted this gun because I wanted the slide lightened, and I didn't want wood grips. Well now he tells me he can only get one black one, however,... the second gun he is bringing in, is the silver finish with slide lightening and aluminum grips!!! Damn, I didn't even know it was offered!!! I assumed the black one had a blued finish, but what is the silver finish, hard chrome, nickel??? I would apprieciate any information on the two finishes that are available. I am really leaning towards the silver finish, what are the good and bad points to consider. They should be here next week so I have a little time to do my research. Edited January 27, 2010 by Dan-O-Mite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
askomiko Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 My black one is looking a lot more beat up than my shiny one. So my vote goes for the shiny one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan-O-Mite Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 I was thinking that the shiny one might stand up a little better to wear and tear. Do you know what the finish is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BundyBear Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 It's a hard chrome finish. It's held up well on my Limited Custom HC. 6 1/2 years with lots of use and it still looks good. I've stuck with the hard chrome finish on my other Tanfoglios. I think it handles wear and tear better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan-O-Mite Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 Thanks for the replies so far. I like to hear that it's hard chromed. Anyone know what the GK finish is?? I thought it was blued, but I heard it's something else. Any more info on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liontribe Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 i like the look the darker finish on the EAA pistols. but i do think the hard chrome is the one to beat. it is very durable. liontribe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 For looks, I like a chrome frame with a black slide and bits. As to what holds up the best, chrome or something like IONBOND. JT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 Guys, it's not a hard chrome finish that is applied externally to the frame and slide; it's a chrome alloy steel. Think "stainless" finish and you will have the correct impression. Go with the chrome; the black scratches off too easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 Rob is spot on with that,...the GK scratches off WAY to easily. Just noticed mine all chipped around the bottom of the magwell. Dissapointed with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan-O-Mite Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 Thanks for the reply guys, I was leaning towards the chromed finish anyways, you just made me feel better about it. Never had one of those really shiney guns before, looking forward to it. Should be in my hands on Sunday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 (edited) The only issue I have had with the chrome finish on my pistol is that I have had my eyes blasted by sun reflecting off of the slide during reloads while shooting a stage. Spotty vision due to sun glare isn't fun to deal with in the middle of a stage run. To overcome this I think I am going to get my next gun IonBonded. Edited February 12, 2010 by CHA-LEE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan-O-Mite Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Hey I got my new Limited Custom with the chrome finish, . It is very nice. Well I did have two issues. First one, the slide stop keeps locking the slide back while I'm shooting. I don't think it is me causing it, but it doesn't really matter. I already have a Henning slide pin in the mail, so that won't be an issue once it gets here. The second issue was feeding problems. I believe it was related to the mags, thanks to some good info I got from this forum. I narrowed the feed lips a little bit, and my last 50 rounds went off no problem. I was able to press on the outside of the mag to make them a little narrower, how does everybody else do it? One of the posts I found here said to use needlenose pliers, but that makes me a little nervous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Hey I got my new Limited Custom with the chrome finish, . It is very nice. Well I did have two issues. First one, the slide stop keeps locking the slide back while I'm shooting. I don't think it is me causing it, but it doesn't really matter. I already have a Henning slide pin in the mail, so that won't be an issue once it gets here. The second issue was feeding problems. I believe it was related to the mags, thanks to some good info I got from this forum. I narrowed the feed lips a little bit, and my last 50 rounds went off no problem. I was able to press on the outside of the mag to make them a little narrower, how does everybody else do it? One of the posts I found here said to use needlenose pliers, but that makes me a little nervous. Needle nose pliers is how I do it. Just be careful, work from the front of the mag, inserting the pliers longitudinally and just "roll" the lips in a bit until parallel and properly gaped. Note that if you grind off the slide stop node it won't get bumped by the rounds cycling up through the mag, so you can keep it in your bag as a back-up. Also, I bought a box of hardened steel dowels in the correct diameter and length, and all I have to do is grind a little notch in them at the end to capture on the spring. I now have enough pins to last me about twenty lifetimes, since I have only ever broken one of the stock cast pieces! Cost only pennies a piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liontribe Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 does anyone know how deep the factory chrome finish is? i was thinking about what Cha-Lee said about sun glare. if the finish is sufficiently deep, one could scotch brite the chrome finish and give it a subdued appearance. think ruger stainless. just trying to think of a cheap way to fix any glare issues. thoughts? liontribe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 does anyone know how deep the factory chrome finish is? i was thinking about what Cha-Lee said about sun glare. if the finish is sufficiently deep, one could scotch brite the chrome finish and give it a subdued appearance. think ruger stainless. just trying to think of a cheap way to fix any glare issues. thoughts? liontribe It's not a surface treatment. Just polished or blasted metal. You could bead blast it if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liontribe Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 does anyone know how deep the factory chrome finish is? i was thinking about what Cha-Lee said about sun glare. if the finish is sufficiently deep, one could scotch brite the chrome finish and give it a subdued appearance. think ruger stainless. just trying to think of a cheap way to fix any glare issues. thoughts? liontribe It's not a surface treatment. Just polished or blasted metal. You could bead blast it if you want. [/quote I gotcha. i went back and re-read your earlier post. i am at work, so i am not paying close attention to much of anything right now. except the clock. thanks. liontribe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeoHallak Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 It seems like these are pretty extreme steps to make a gun flash less in the sun.. Seems to me I remember a lot of top shooters at the last 2 Nationals who had chrome guns and not a lot of problems with this issue. Leo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 just keep in mind that if you blast your gun you'll void your factory warranty... i've ionbond'ed all my guns and love the finish. But I had to do something to my finish because I had modified my gun frame and slides (A LOT). And I'm not worrying about factory warranty issues... I shot the chrome guns for years and though never been a big fan of chrome guns, lots of guys pay to have their guns finished in chrome.. doubt there's a lot of shooters complaining about reflection, but who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan-O-Mite Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 The one I have is only polished on the sides of the frame and slide. The top and bottom and back end of the gun are a non-shiney finish, almost like a 2500 grit sand paper. I don't plan on seeing much of the sides of my gun while shooting. I'll see how it goes once I get back to shooting outdoors. For the next 3 months at least, it's indoor only here in "Winter"peg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 The one I have is only polished on the sides of the frame and slide. The top and bottom and back end of the gun are a non-shiney finish, almost like a 2500 grit sand paper. I don't plan on seeing much of the sides of my gun while shooting. I'll see how it goes once I get back to shooting outdoors. For the next 3 months at least, it's indoor only here in "Winter"peg. brother I know how you feel. It is shitty being up this far north,..I can't wait to shoot outdoors again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan-O-Mite Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 (edited) Thought I should add a couple pics of my new gun. Already got my new Henning slide pin installed. I'll wait a bit before installing the new Henning trigger. I want to get the feeding issue dealt with first. I think my next step is to try loading longer. I have been trying to shoot my old CZ rounds, but they are only 1.160". I've gotten my mag lips to the recommended size of .385", so OAL is the next thing on my list to try. Edited February 19, 2010 by Dan-O-Mite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
askomiko Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Oo, a new shiny limited custom is just soooooo pretty. <3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 brother I know how you feel. It is shitty being up this far north,..I can't wait to shoot outdoors again! Outdoors. I've heard of that. Crap, I hate winter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan-O-Mite Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 Hey it worked. I increased my OAL to 1.20" and no more feeding problems. So last night I was restless, and decided to get my new trigger installed. I did have a bit of trouble getting the trigger to fully reset sometimes. It seems to me that where the trigger bar meets the plunger in the mag release was very rough. The trigger bar was quite scored up. I did alot of sanding with some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper to smooth most of it out. There are still lines visible, but it feels much more slippery now. It does seem to be resetting better, so I'm off to the range to try it out. I guess I'll see how good my "limited" gunsmithing skills are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan-O-Mite Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 Well it's better but still needs some work. I'll try a little more work in the same area, but I will also look at polishing the whole trigger bar as it looks to be rubbing slightly against the frame. I'll also polish the frame in that area. Otherwise it is great. I definately like the straight trigger more. The pre and over travel adjustments are also an improvement. Now that I have had the trigger apart, I can see how that old spring system would be a real pain in the a** to deal with. It seems the old spring system made the trigger pull a little heavier, probably that's why I didn't have resetting issues before. By the way, the trigger slipped right in without any problems. I definately like how there is no more side to side movement. The old trigger was angled to one side, almost to the outside of the trigger guard, . Great design Henning, I'm looking forward to your new hammer and sear. Any word when those might be available? How do you expect them to differ/improve over the factory stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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