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Found 6 results

  1. I have an AR-15 running the following setup: 12.5" Midlength gas Triarc TRACK barrel Silencerco Omega (dedicated suppressed) RCA low mass BCG SLR Sentry 7 adjustable gas block A5 buffer tube A5 buffer (reduced weight using KAK aluminum weights) Tubbs flatwire spring Function is consistent and 100% reliable with any one single type of ammunition, BUT I am having issues with ammo sensitivity when changing from different loads. In previous builds using similar components (but 16" mid and non-suppressed) I have had a wide band of reliabilty. Once gas is properly set the rifle runs to BHO with everything from weak steel cased 223 to full house 77gr 5.56 ammo. When gas is tuned for the 12.5" rifle listed above I get flawless performance (4 o'clock ejection and BHO) from roughly 50% of the different ammo types I shoot. The other 50% ejects at 2:00 to 2:30 and makes the gun vibrate harshly when shooting. Function is 100% consistent when running a single type of ammo. If I decrease gas by one click I lose BHO on the softer ammo, and the more violent cycling ammo will then cycle smoothly. To clarify, some low pressure 223 cycles violently and some cycles properly. (I.E.5.56 55gr XM193 cycles violently, but 5.56 77gr MK262 Mod1 cycles smooth.) What gives?! Any suggestions to remedy the problem? EDIT: OPTION #1 Would anyone recommend replacing the low mass BCG with the Bootleg adjustable BCG? https://www.weaponoutfitters.com/bootleg-adjustable-carrier.html PROS- On the fly fine tuning between gas settings. CONS- Added mass, possibly added maintenance, cost. OPTION #2 Should I skip all this head-scratching and just shoot ammo that functions properly in my rifle? Or is it wrong to run my rifle in such a narrow window of operation?
  2. I'm running a JP adjustable gas block and Im getting some black residue on my support hand (just surface residue not hot gasses). Mapped it with white paper around the hand guard and it appears to be coming equally from each side of the gas tube pin. It seems to me it would be hard to seal the pin area completely. I will double check to ensure the pins is installed properly. Just curious if this is normal. thanks
  3. For those who are interested, I just posted the follow up to my JP build with pics over here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=213358 I was able to get the gas system tuned up nicely, and have the operating window functioning flawlessly with three different factory loads in 55 gr. Oddly, when I tighten the set screw to lock in the valve screw, the bolt fails to lock on an empty mag. When I back the set screw out a half turn, it goes back to perfect function. According to a phone call I made to JP during my build process, the carbon buildup locks the valve screw in place on the JP adjustable gas block, and that JP only recently added the set screw in response to the onslaught of questions they received about the design. Supposedly, they had adjustable blocks without the set screw for years that functioned well. I plan to give them a call Monday to ask about the set screw, but currently I am just curious if anyone has seen similar issues? I am perfectly content to run the rifle in its current setting and let the carbon lock the valve screw in, keeping the set screw backed off slightly, but I am definitely curious about it. Thanks, Al
  4. I have a Delton/spikes 16" flat top AR. I need to replace the front gas block and was wondering which one is the best choice. I'm thinking of the Yankee Hill which is a gas block with a built in flip front sight and bottom sling attachment and bayo. attachment around $90.00 or a bolt on railed gas block and then add a detachable front flip down sight. I would imagine it would be around the same price point. I'm not looking for a high end setup since my rear sight isn't the best. I'd just like to have the ability to use iron sights or take them off if i want to use a scope.
  5. I have been reading quite a bit on adjustable gas systems and light weight bolts, buffers etc. The most common method of adjusting the gas block is to turn it up in small increments until the bolt holds open on the last round, then add anywhere from 1/4 to half a turn for reliability. Last night i was reading an article by a 3 gunner on the pro series and he mentioned that he would like to tune the gas system without the comp installed, then install the comp and tune it. What is the reason for this? What would you look for in tuning the gas system without the comp installed?
  6. I just finished putting together a new build using the following: Nordic 18" rifle length gas barrel JP low mass bolt carrier + mil spec bolt JP low mass buffer rifle JP tuned buffer spring rifle JP adjustable gas block ARFX Rifle length stock Noveske striped upper AP customs handguard Miculek comp Rainier lower, JP trigger, a2 stock I went to the range with a couple of boxes of different ammo (ultramax reman 55 grain FMJ, federal premium 69g match king, tulammo 55g FMJ) to adjust the gas system and sight in the scope. Followed instructions to adjust the gas block from JP, using Ultramax ammo, and was not able to make the bolt stay open with the mag catch even after opening the gas all the way (6 full turns). Repeated the process with the federal premium and different magazines with the same results. I borrowed my brother's PWI BCG and was able to get the gas adjusted in a couple of shots, keeping the JP Spring and buffer. My brother's PWI rifle will work perfectly with the JP BCG, spring and buffer (16" barrel with mid length, non adjustable block). My conclusion was that the combined mass of the JP BCG and buffer using JP's spring is to low, and can't create enough momentum to overcome the spring force. Ok, here are my questions 1. Does that make sense? 2. Does not make sense to me that JP's components are not playing well together. Is anyone running a similar setup? Have you experienced this problem? 3. Is the rifle length gas system underpowered to cycle the JP system? 4. Does Carbon Arms Nordic Barrel with the adjusted gas port cause this issue? 5. Any recommendations on how to make my setup run? 6. Will drilling the gas port in the barrel do anything to fix this? There is limited I can do to swap parts due to the current industry crisis, so I NEED to make my setup work. Thanks in advance.
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