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Hello all, I started loading some 9mm for a customer this morning and got about 300rds out when my Mr. Bulletfeeder quit working. It stopped dead in its tracks without any warning. Where I have my loading bench setup happens to be next to where i store my cameras and tools so i decided to do a "How to" I don't intend to be showing the correct practices, or proper usage of tools or even a camera, so please hold criticism on that front. What I do intend to do is show how to take some readings with a simple Volt and Ohm meter. (Mine isn't simple but the same test can be done w/ a cheap radio shak model). While you can take the measurements of the circuit in any order you want, I will be describing the measurements in the same order as the video i took and edited. The diagnostic process could have easily taken just a few steps, and have been performed w/ all of the parts installed on the Bulletfeeder assembly. I removed everything and took extra steps to assist in helping you understand the "How" and "Why." I hope this post and video (9 minutes long) will help someone that doesn't understand electrical testing, get a handle on verifying which part of their device is causing them an issue. The practices of Ohm testing and Voltage Drop measurements can be applied to just about any simple circuit. As long as there are no Data or Logic circuits involved, testing a system in the same manner as I have tested the Bulletfeeder Motor circuit should work out great for you. I'll do my best to keep the pictures in testing order. If you have a look at the Schematic I drew of the circuit you will see it is very simple. Power comes in from the plug to the Positive side of the motor. The ground side of the motor is then attached to the coil of wire that runs to the switch mounted on the bullet tube. The switch acts as the control device and opens the contacts when a bullet is present and holding the lever out. Once there is no bullet pushing on the lever, the switch closes and allows the Ground side of the motor to be connected to the Ground side of the power supply, completing the circuit and causing the motor to rotate. 1st. I set the meter to Volts and check the Power Supply for voltage. You can do this at the barrel plug or at the terminals inside the housing as I have done in the Video. 2nd. I check for supply voltage through the switch assembly. This effectively checks for voltage though everything BUT the motor. 3rd. I plug in the motor and do a Voltage Drop across the motor with the circuit under load. Since the only load in the circuit is the motor, we should see ALL of the source voltage being dropped across the motor. If we see a reading of significantly less than source voltage (more than a .5volt difference) then we have another load (source of resistance) in our circuit. 4th. Given our reading I opt to replace the motor with another load in order to do a Voltage Drop across a known good part. It is common when testing automotive circuits to add a test light into the circuit and wire it so that the Light is connected to the battery on one side of the circuit, and to the entire expanse of the opposite side of the circuit that a fault is believed to be in. After checking each side, Power and Ground, of a suspect circuit in that manner, you can then condemn the Part that the circuit controls or continue component testing if need be. 5th. In the video I use the variable output of the motor controller to simulate a bad reading during a voltage drop test. We see 10.66 volts on a circuit that should be 12.28 volts. If you see a reading like this you know that somewhere else in the circuit you have resistance that is consuming that lost voltage. 6th I demonstrate the proper way to perform a voltage drop on the remaining portions of the circuit. Finally we do a little Ohm testing of some parts and circuits. An Ohm meter reading can be very valuable, but don't allow it to confuse you. Just because a circuit has an Ohm reading that is acceptable, doesn't mean it is capable of carrying a load. If a wire were cut, pinched, or damaged in some way yet a single strand was left connected it would likely pass an Ohms test. If you take that same wire and load it in a circuit, it will quickly fail a Voltage Drop test and consume part of your Voltage that you intend for your load (motor in our case) The Video: I hope this helps someone understand the circuit and how to test it if you have an issue. Feel free to PM if you have any questions or advice how to make this "How To" better for future readers. Thank You, Matt R.
About eight months ago I bought a square deal B in 9mm from my local gun shop. When I got it home, it was apparent that they'd ordered in a .40 S&W kit, ripped that calibre out then installed a 9mm set into it. They ordered and supplied me another primer housing & shield (#20900) because the black tube had some surface rust "from shipping". I didn't think it was much of a deal until I got it home and tried to use it, but couldn't get the primers to feed more than 1/20th of the time without ... random luck it seemed. Everything else worked fine, but without primers I wasn't going to get far. I thought it was me being new to the process, not understanding how to set it up, so I spent ages reading up on it on your forums and wherever else I could find, checking it to ensure the primer cup wasn't fouling on the shell plate (never did), but I never got it right in a few weeks of trying when I had time. I got sick, couldn't look at it for a few months, so tonight I sit down and give it another go. I get ONE round to go together after checking the powder throw and that primers weren't falling out and then the handle sticks for a second while resizing the next case... and then I can't get any primers to feed. I pulled it apart, undoing the three black bolts on the front and removing the primer feed from the machine, and I find this. http://imgur.com/aTXBUtR The roller bolt (#13809) had snapped, and the roller was just sitting on the main part of the housing. So, I pulled things apart - I had a spare primer feed slider so I moved the primer cup over to that, checked the height and everything looked ok. I made sure the clearances looked ok, and no burrs on anything like I'd read on the net, and went to load ONE round. The shell plate/carrier assembly stuck up, and I pulled slowly and gently down thinking it was the shell too far onto the resizing die... and crunch. ANOTHER roller bolt snapped. I'm in Australia and can't call international and it's a public holiday tomorrow so my LGS is shut. Any ideas?
Anyone ever have a shot timer repaired by CED somehow the screen cracked on one I borrowed from a buddy. So now I gotta make it right. Anyone with experience with their repair department in regards to cost and turnaround time. If it's not worth it I have the money to get him a new one just curious to see if it's worth the repair. The lesson here is STOP BEING A CHEAP BASTARD AND BUY YOUR OWN DAMN TIMER... LOL.