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Found 7 results

  1. Hello I am new owner of BUL SAS II Open pistol that was purchased without predrilled holes for the scope mount on dust cover. I am looking for the information/advice what are the typical dimensions / location of the holes that are drilled and tapped in the frame/dustcover. I've found some info in one of the threads and would like to verify if this is correct as I can drill the holes only once ;-) I am looking for 5 holes pattern with distance between them 0.375 inch ( there will be optics mount + thumb rest on side of mount) The distance from center of the slide stop hole to center of first hole for optics mount : 0.5 inch Distance of the holes from top of frame/dust cover edge 0.135 inch All distances above assume that I will use 5-40 screws. The issue is that I am in a "metric" country and the closest metric screwes are M3 (which have slightly smaller diameter than 5-40) so I could use M4 but those are roughly 0,1575 in diameter and seem to me too thick to make holse so close to dust cover edge (dust cover is stainelss steel) Now the questions are: 1. If the dictances I provided above seem to be ok ? 2. If the M3 screws are not to weak (assuming I will be using 5 holes mount) ? Should I consider M4 screws? If that will influence/increase the required distance from dust cover edge ? 3. What should be the minimal clearance between the bottom of the mount shelf and the slide ? I am awaiting for the mount at the moment that will be used with micro red dot / RTS2 size. My concern are potential extraction/jams. I would appreciate advice. K
  2. I am new-ish to the tanfo platform and I am having great success with it. Shot with a Shadow 2 most of this season and I am currently shooting the Tanfo. I was able to put 600 rounds in 3 range visit and I am blown away by the difference in between the two platforms, very happy with the Stock 2. I have purchased a few shock buffers for this pistol, and I tried it with and with out and I could not notice any difference in felt recoil, however, the action becomes stiffer when the buffer is in, like if there was less wiggle room between the barrel and the slide when out of battery and it takes more effort to rack the slide. The gun was used for about 200 rounds with a buffer with no ill effects, however, when operated by hand I can feel it is tighter. Wondering if any of you has any first hand experience with these buffers. I am thinking that they might be a gimmick and might as well keep them out.
  3. I bought this on BE to use for a limited build (earlier this year). After further inspection, I found what I think is a manufacturing flaw. Since it is a new frame I requested an exchange from the manufacturer. While I’m waiting to hear back, I wanted to see what other’s think. Seems to me any reputable manufacturer would exchange it. Thoughts? Just cosmetic or not? Would you use it for a build? Thanks
  4. Hey all, I recently picked up a used STI Apeiro as a back up to my SV limited gun. I already have SV magazines, but I am not confident they will work well in my Apeiro as it stands. If I drive the mags home, they get stuck and have to be pulled out the bottom of the magwell. Definitely not dropping free. I have done a good amount of research and have found the difference has to do with the wider taper at the top of SV magazines and the way that the underside of the frame (magwell area) is clearanced for the magazine. What I want to know is precisely what surfaces/edges (photos with arrows or circles would be great) need to be modified and how much. Either a specific dimension, or a guideline such as keep going slowly until X happens. What is actually supposed to constrain the upward movement of a magazine when inserting it? Is it this frame surface I need to modify or is it something else? I am comfortable with most gunsmithing practices, but do not have access to a mill or anything. Could this be done with files/sandpaper/a dremel (very carefully)??? Also, should STI magazines still be compatible with the gun after making these modifications? Thanks in advance, Eli
  5. Last week I got a brand new STI Trojan in 9mm for an ESP IDPA gun. I took it to the range Monday and put 50 rounds through it. On Tuesday I took it apart to clean it and noticed something right away. There is some kind of blemish in the frame next to the barrel lug channel. It actually bleeds slightly into the groove. I've owned over a dozen 1911s of various makes and models and have never seen this before. My main concern is this is a high friction area with moving parts that need to function flawlessly for the pistol to work. I would hate for it to cause an issue later down the road and render the frame useless. Are things like this very common with STI frames, or is this just overlooked bad quality control? I've sent STI an email regarding my concerns, still waiting to hear back from them.
  6. Dear folks, I own a 9mm M&P Pro 5" and wish to ask if a .40S&W barrel and slide combination would run smoothly and reliably on it for competition use (given such variables as the extractor). Any inputs would be welcome - thanks.
  7. Building another 2011 in 9mm and am torn between an SDC or an SWDC frame. Are there any benefits to either type, other than maybe the small amount of weight addition on the SWDC?
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