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Found 11 results

  1. I have a 6moa aluminum railway on my PCC. I went to practice yesterday (Live in Florida) at my outdoor range. I turn on my C-more and the dot is very dull (Almost non existent) I know the Florida sun is bright, so I installed my Guga Ribas cover and Arrendondo Dot module Hood Cover. No Change! I couldn't see the dot. I installed 2 new Energizer 357 batteries and the dot is still dull. I did start to notice the dot issue at my last USPSA match. Depending on the bay position and the Florida sun the dot is brighter or duller depending on the previous mentioned factors. Anyone have any ideas. I ended up shooting 10 rounds with the rifle before putting it away. I spent the ammo practicing with my M&P with Vortex Venom installed. I had no problems seeing the 6moa dot on my venom.
  2. EEH

    Mount screws

    What size are the screws that hold scope to mount..(slide ride) type
  3. I have a C-more Slideride on a CZ Czechmate. Today the dot started to shut off and fade in and out. This particularly occurred after a shot had been fired, the slide racked or sometimes if the gun was tapped or bumped. When the dot had shut off or was faint I noticed that if I applied some pressure to the on/off twist switch, pushing the switch forward slightly, the dot would come back on or brighten. The on/off twist switch is the non-click type. Is this likely to be a simple fix by replacing the diode or more likely the C-more has some other problem and I need a new one? I tried replacing the battery and used contact cleaner and compressed air to clean the diode and around the switch without success.
  4. Hey everyone, I was wondering what battery life you are getting out of your c-more. Mine is a 6 moa, less than a year old and what I've found is that I cannot leave it on full brightness between stages with a fresh battery. It has an advertised life of 300 hours, which I know is not at full brightness. I was able to regain some brightness by turning it off between stages. I contacted c-more about this and asked if this was normal. I didn't get a good answer, they just said to turn off the dot when not using it. I get that these dots are not as efficient as an aimpoint and whatnot, but it seems to me like a fresh battery should be able to last a day at a match on full brightness. Talking to a guy at the match, he mentioned that 8 moa dots are a little more efficient with their battery, but I haven't tried one so I can't say if that's true or not. Is this a normal experience for c-more users here? Is there a solid alternative to the slide-ride for a 2011? Thanks for your help
  5. I wanted to share a difference I found with the full size C-more plastic and aluminum bodies. I have used Plastic C-mores for years with zero issues. When I bought my Tanfoglio Gold Team I heeded some advice from a fellow open shooter to put an aluminum C- more on it as the plastic bodies have been known to crack after repeated battering from open guns. When I got the aluminum one I put it on a double sided mount (7 screws to attach) with a forward cant and proceeded to sight it in. During my sight in session I eventually bottomed out on elevation adjustment and the pistol was still hitting 4-5" low at 15 and 20 yards. So I mounted up one of my plastic bodied units I bought 5-6 years ago (and known to work) to determine if I had a sight or mount/gun issue. The plastic body unit zeroed no problem with a lot of elevation adjustment to spare. Called C-more and ended up sending the Aluminum one back for an exchange. I got the new one and tried it and this time was able to zero it but there is not a lot of elevation left to play with. When zeroed the gap in the upper and lower body of the lens housing is spread open considerably on the aluminum one whereas on the plastic unit the two halves are almost parallel when zeroed on this gun. I have determined there is some geometry difference between the two bodies, they can not be built the same at all. I think the lens housing affixes the glass at a different angle between the two. I spoke to C-more about this and they said it is possible the aluminum housing with the need of a machining operation to create the lens seat may be different versus the plastic unit where the lens seat is at set dimension right out of the mold. I asked C-more if the lens angle design changed at all across the board as my plastic one is 6ish years old and he said no. He went on to tell me the only change made to the plastic bodies since 6 years ago was to add material near the windage adjustment screw area to cure the cracks that were common there. Have any of you ever experienced this same situation? I am curious to know, chime in if you have a similar case or explanation.
  6. Long story short recently my C-More pulled the screws out of my Cheely 90deg mount. I Called Cheely for a replacement but he makes them in batches and doesn't have any right now but will send one out when he does. I want to make it clear that I don't think Cheely sold me a bad product I just think this particular one failed not due to anything Cheely could control. My problem is the Area 1 match is at the end of June so I came up with a fix for the short maybe long term. I through bolted it but didn't want nuts on the other side so here is what I did First I milled an old indexable tool holder to a small bar Next I milled a slot in the back of my Cheely mount .050 inches deep and same width (.497) as my bar I drilled and tapped the bar for the new longer Cmore screws Then screwed the Cmore down to the mount using the bar as the nuts. I like the bar because it should help with any pitching of the red dot on the mount. It also props my gun up better for unloaded table starts. My bar is .300inches thick but this can be reduced and eventually will.
  7. Hi I'm looking for an 90 degree C-MORE scope mount with SVI bolt pattern (AND SVI screw dimensions), they are using 6-40 and all mounts I seen using 5-40. Mount and screws needed. Anyone know where to find a mount? regards Anders
  8. I have recently become the owner of an awesome gun set up for 9 major. It runs greats but there is only one exception. Every 20 or so rounds, a spent case gets stuck between the slide and sight mount. It's almost like the sight doesn't allow enough space for a case to eject. I even see a common cut in the sight mount. I'm on the verge of buying a 90 degree or cutting off one side of the mount. Looking for any advice.
  9. Maybe time to retire the Aimpoint and go with a a C-More. Just would prefer not to add any more holes to the frame. Any suggestions of a compatible mount?
  10. Hello everyone. So I have searched and read and searched some more. I am wondering about installing the SJC mount. I have read the instructions on the SJC site, read impressions here, and checked glocktalk, but am still not sure what to do. What does everyone think as far as installing the mount? I have a dremel, and a drill press, and consider myself decently crafty enough to get by most of the time. Is it worth having SJC do, and if so how much does it cost by the time its all said and done (shipping, install, additional charges, etc)? Is it easy, just a little scary? What about a local smith? Anyone who has installed one, please post any pictures you may have of the process and if you have video that would be amazing as well. Thank you in advance!
  11. Here is a picture from a match in Eskilstuna, Sweden (Level II). There where a guy who had made hos own mount in an pretty unusual way. I know him and he says it works quite OK. Just liked to share... //Freddie the Swede
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