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Found 5 results

  1. I have an STI TruBor that I shoot in Open... I have gone through many jamming problems, including sending my gun back to STI for a replacement barrel and slide... After getting it back from STI, I added an Aftec extractor... My jamming problems are greatly improved, yet I still do get an occasional jam where multiple bullets collide in the chamber. I have noticed that the flat area on the front of my barrel ramp has what looks like marks from the front of a bullet. I'm wondering if this could be causing my jamming problem? I've never seen this kind of problem in either my Limited or Single Stack guns, so I'm posting this in the Open forum... Does anyone know what causes these marks?
  2. I have been reloading for a G34 for years and it has been very forgiving to my terrible reloading skills. I have been reloading for a Tanfoglio Stock 2 about a year now and still have not settled on a reliable load. It has made me question a lot about my current thoughts on reloading. To the Enos hive mind I go for answers. Current load is 1.135 OAL, 4.8 gr HS-6, Federal primers, 147 gr Blue Bullet, and it comes in at a 130 PF. Questions: 1: In precision rifle shooting, you almost always get better accuracy by loading the OAL to be .010 - .015 off the lands of the rifling. For a pistol, does it really matter that much? In uspsa, the targets are so close (30 yards and in). I worry that loading with a longer OAL than 1.100 it will cause reliability issues with feeding and ejecting. 2: By loading with a longer OAL, do I have to use more powder to achieve a specific power factor? 3: I currently use HS-6. I have been told I should use a faster powder like Tight Group. Is a faster burning powder really going to generate less recoil and burn cleaner than HS-6? 4: I use a factory crimp die. How do I know if I am crimping too much? How do I know if I am not crimping enough? 5: I am having regular Stove pipes, 1 out of every 100 rounds. Aside from shooter error or gun issues, is their anything that could cause this that is only related to the ammo? I realize I have a lot of questions and I am sorry for posting so many all in one post. Problem is I have a lot of questions. Thanks in advance for the help.
  3. Hello all, I started loading some 9mm for a customer this morning and got about 300rds out when my Mr. Bulletfeeder quit working. It stopped dead in its tracks without any warning. Where I have my loading bench setup happens to be next to where i store my cameras and tools so i decided to do a "How to" I don't intend to be showing the correct practices, or proper usage of tools or even a camera, so please hold criticism on that front. What I do intend to do is show how to take some readings with a simple Volt and Ohm meter. (Mine isn't simple but the same test can be done w/ a cheap radio shak model). While you can take the measurements of the circuit in any order you want, I will be describing the measurements in the same order as the video i took and edited. The diagnostic process could have easily taken just a few steps, and have been performed w/ all of the parts installed on the Bulletfeeder assembly. I removed everything and took extra steps to assist in helping you understand the "How" and "Why." I hope this post and video (9 minutes long) will help someone that doesn't understand electrical testing, get a handle on verifying which part of their device is causing them an issue. The practices of Ohm testing and Voltage Drop measurements can be applied to just about any simple circuit. As long as there are no Data or Logic circuits involved, testing a system in the same manner as I have tested the Bulletfeeder Motor circuit should work out great for you. I'll do my best to keep the pictures in testing order. If you have a look at the Schematic I drew of the circuit you will see it is very simple. Power comes in from the plug to the Positive side of the motor. The ground side of the motor is then attached to the coil of wire that runs to the switch mounted on the bullet tube. The switch acts as the control device and opens the contacts when a bullet is present and holding the lever out. Once there is no bullet pushing on the lever, the switch closes and allows the Ground side of the motor to be connected to the Ground side of the power supply, completing the circuit and causing the motor to rotate. 1st. I set the meter to Volts and check the Power Supply for voltage. You can do this at the barrel plug or at the terminals inside the housing as I have done in the Video. 2nd. I check for supply voltage through the switch assembly. This effectively checks for voltage though everything BUT the motor. 3rd. I plug in the motor and do a Voltage Drop across the motor with the circuit under load. Since the only load in the circuit is the motor, we should see ALL of the source voltage being dropped across the motor. If we see a reading of significantly less than source voltage (more than a .5volt difference) then we have another load (source of resistance) in our circuit. 4th. Given our reading I opt to replace the motor with another load in order to do a Voltage Drop across a known good part. It is common when testing automotive circuits to add a test light into the circuit and wire it so that the Light is connected to the battery on one side of the circuit, and to the entire expanse of the opposite side of the circuit that a fault is believed to be in. After checking each side, Power and Ground, of a suspect circuit in that manner, you can then condemn the Part that the circuit controls or continue component testing if need be. 5th. In the video I use the variable output of the motor controller to simulate a bad reading during a voltage drop test. We see 10.66 volts on a circuit that should be 12.28 volts. If you see a reading like this you know that somewhere else in the circuit you have resistance that is consuming that lost voltage. 6th I demonstrate the proper way to perform a voltage drop on the remaining portions of the circuit. Finally we do a little Ohm testing of some parts and circuits. An Ohm meter reading can be very valuable, but don't allow it to confuse you. Just because a circuit has an Ohm reading that is acceptable, doesn't mean it is capable of carrying a load. If a wire were cut, pinched, or damaged in some way yet a single strand was left connected it would likely pass an Ohms test. If you take that same wire and load it in a circuit, it will quickly fail a Voltage Drop test and consume part of your Voltage that you intend for your load (motor in our case) The Video: I hope this helps someone understand the circuit and how to test it if you have an issue. Feel free to PM if you have any questions or advice how to make this "How To" better for future readers. Thank You, Matt R.
  4. Hey guys, So I had my SVI re-barreled last winter and I upgraded my 5" sight tracker gun with a 5.4" sight tracker barrel. Slide is still 5", frame is still a butler cut for the 5" slide. I had just kept using my 180 gr bayou load after the change and it has worked out pretty well for me, but I am wondering if a lighter bullet would benefit me at all. I know a lot of people that go up to a 6" barrel tend to choose a load with a 165gr bullet, but what do you do with a 5.4? And does it make a difference that mine is a 5" slide and a hybrid (bull) barrel, as opposed to most 6" guns that have bushing barrels? Thanks for your thoughts, Eli
  5. I whipped up a casting machine over the weekend to make it easier and faster to cast bullets. I already had a Lee bottom-pour pot and an RCBS mould, so I built the machine around those two components. I watched several videos of the Magma Engineering Master Caster and felt that the design was simple enough to duplicate. I bought the shaft, shaft collars, mounted bearings and some steel and had the rest lying around. Short video of the machine in action: Finished bullets drop into a 50-cal ammo can and the sprues are dropped into a 30-cal can. Overall, I am happy with the results but I need to add a squirrel cage blower to speed up the cooling process and increase the output. The 20lb pot is probably going to end up being too small and I predict (with the blower), I will be able to outrun the smelting capability of the pot. The real Magma has a larger pot, pours both cavities at once, and is a one-handed operation, but my version cost me a lot less and I can use off-the-shelf RCBS moulds.
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