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Found 18 results

  1. Hi all, I have been working up a load for a new trubor in 38 super. The gun is stock standard. When pjtting rounds over the chrony i had an interesting stoppage. The slide locked half open, at first i thought the next round being fed into the chamber had caught on the feed ramp and jammed it open but after dropping the mag the slide stayed open. I pulled back on the slide and it has no tension from the recoil spring. I could push and pull the slide and it just stops where ever its sitting when i let go. Somethings binding the spring possibly, when i move the slide i can feel what i think is the guide rod head? grinding against the barrel, well something is binding up but im not sure quite what. When i pull the slide to the rear, insert the paperclip into the guide rod hole and push the slide foward the jam goes away, the spring unbinds and its like its never happened. On another occasion i disregarded the paper clip and just pulled the slide stop out and took the slide off, in the hope of trying to see what the hell was happening but.... when the slide comes off everything is as it should be! Almost like there was nothing wrong to begin with :/ When this malfunction happens i notice that the hole that you put the paper clip into has rotated, when everything is running correctly the hole sits at the 12 and 6 oclock position. When it binds up the hole is at the 1 and 7 oclock position. The guide rod is turning, i suspect the guide rod head is jamming itself against the barrel and dust cover somehow, there by siezing it in place while its compressed. Does this sound logical? If so what could be causing it? I will point out that i suspect the end of the guide rod is just contacting the comp when the slide is pulled right back, there is no daylight visible between the two and there is a very slight wear mark on the rod but not alot of wear on the comp. I guess these two parts are not meant to be getting that cozy? This malfunction happened to me 5 times today during a 100 round break in on the gun shooting bill drills. Everything ran fine for the first 47 rounds and then it all went pear shaped. Long winded but i tried to explain it as best i can. Any ideas?
  2. I am out of VV320 but have plenty of Power Pistol... Anyone got a Bianchi load with Power a Pistol, 115gr HAP, 38 Super. Was thinking of starting at 5.5 grains and working up. I would like around 1120 fps and good accuracy.
  3. Built in 1993, sat in a friends safe for years in the back, as he got it on a trade for a racing bike plus cash. Would this be considered anything special to anyone, just putting out feelers. I shoot 9mm open and dont feel the need to load super Sorry for the attachment being needed to be opened up, B class shooter and D class on computers sti 38 sup.docx
  4. I recently purchased an open gun in .38 Super. Of course being Open I want to run Major PF. I can't seem to find any decent source for current "best practices" loads. I asked an Open shooter this weekend at a match, he said he was using VV 3N38, but the new hotness is CFE-P. I know that the equipment survey taken at Production Nationals had a 147gn pill over 3.2gns of TiteGroup for 41% of the competitors. Does anything like this comparison exist for Open shooters? If not, what's your favorite .38 Super Comp load?
  5. Finally got a chance to take out my DVC and find a good starting point as to were to do a real load development. I was using a Pro Chrono. Outside temp was about 52 degrees. I know 5 shot strings isn't a real development but I needed a good starting point since this was my first time making a load for an open gun. Now that I know what charge to start with, I will go further. Need your inputs on what you guys think about the velocities. Thinking sticking to the BE-86 but I definitely can push the CFE-P further. BE-86 seemed to work the comp better. Both powders were real soft with CFE-P being the softest but not by much. Numbers on red are above max recommended as per manufacture. Click on the picture for larger ones. This is the last 2 strings on CFE-P low to high (left to right) This is the BE-86 strings low to high (left to right)
  6. Are the specs for the 38 Supercomp the same as the 38 super listed here? http://www.saami.org/pubresources/cc_drawings/Pistol/38%20Super%20Auto%20+P%20-%2038%20Automatic.pdf Looking for chamber specs. Thanks for any help.
  7. Is anyone using CFE Pistol for 38 super major with 124gr projectiles? If so, how much and what OAL? Sorry if this is a repeat thread, but all my searches came up with loads for 9mm major. Thanks!
  8. For 38 Super I've got HS6, CFE Pistol, BE-86, SR 7625, and Universal on hand... Looking for a load that is in the 1250ish fps range in a commander with a 125gr SNS coated round nose. Will be loaded to 1.250" OAL. Anyone got a ballpark of where to start?
  9. What bullet do you use and why? I am newer to reloading for competition. I shoot 124g Xtreme plated at the moment. I used 124 lead before this and wasn't a big fan. So before i buy a bunch to try I would like to know what works for most. I know 124 or 115 montana gold is a big seller. Plated being a close second. I would like some advice form the collective knowledge of many people who have been down this road. I'm sure it will vary from personal taste and what gun and powder. Thank you in advance for the help. This will be shot out of a Tanfoglio with a V-6 ports and comp. 4.75in barrel plus comp.
  10. I've run my 9mm 170 mags for years now and I am switching to a 38 super gun. Do I need to do anything with my magazines?
  11. How many uses are you getting from your Starline 38 super comp brass? I'm relatively new to the caliber - for me, it seems to get "bulge-y" after 2 or 3 uses. Load: 124 MG JHP, 9gr HS6
  12. Just a comment - I've read on other threads here (BE) and on other forums to expect HS6 to be really dirty. After a detailed cleaning of the gun (including brass brush dremel cleaning of the comp) I shot a couple hundred rounds (maybe more) of 10gr VV 3n38 behind 124 MG JHP. Detailed cleaned again - including dremel brass brush cleaning the comp. Then shot a couple hundred more rounds of 9gr HS6 behind 124gr MG. I didn't have the foresight to take comparison pictures this time, but the HS6 was definitely cleaner than 3n38. HS6 left a lot less 'burn residue' on the comp in comparison to 3n38. I'll do this again in the coming weeks, and add pictures.
  13. I just recently started shooting Open, and man am I having trouble finding reloading components! I finally found brass, and luckily I have 2lbs of HS-6 lying around, but that'll be gone soon. Where are you guys finding stuff? I've heard that finding 3n38 this year will be harder than finding Jimmy Hoffa (sorry, couldn't resist) because of the Lapua acquisition. I can't even find HS-6 anymore. Thoughts?
  14. HS6 may not be the powder of choice of 38 super these days - but I've run out of 3n38. I've searched on the forum, but only found a couple of recipes 124 JHP. Looks like the correct formula is somewhere around 9grs. Thoughts? Thanks and sorry for the repeated thread.
  15. So after 15 years, I've been forced to change powder since VV N350 is no longer available. Seems 3N38 is the only other VV option still in stock. Does anyone have a proven load for 38 Super 5" (32 Twist) 3 port HybriComp barrel, and 115gr bullets? Or something that will get me started? Thanks, Dave Pruitt davidpruitt.com
  16. I am wanting to get a 627 or 327 or another s&w 8 shot revolver and I was wanting to use the same 38 super and 9mm loads I have worked up or at least the same brass and bullets and I have seen several topics on shooting 9mm and 38 super but it looks like people are using .357-.358 bullets. So my question is, can I shoot 355 bullets out of a 357 barrel or would I pretty much have to get it rebarreled for the different diameter? If that's the case who/where would I be able to have this work done? I haven't seen any place that advertises this practice (probably because most people don't want the hassle/cost) Also, if 38 super cases will work would 38 super comp work as well with the moon clips? I don't need that, but I already have the brass so it'd be nice to consolidate. I have no desire to buy another complete set up just for this gun (brass bullets dies especially since I have lots of 9mm/38super stuff already) plus I like the the idea of being able to buy bulk 9mm from the store and going to a match, unlikely to find the same for 38/357 in the quantity need for a 2 day match.
  17. Hello All, I’m new to the sport of USPSA and having a lot of fun. Also, this is my first post. I just picked up an Open Class Gun. This is what it has - Caspian HybriComp 38Super top end on Tripp Research 2011 frame. Hard Chromed frame and slide. Second complete top end Nowlin comped barrel in 38Super setup for shooting steel minor. Optima Dot sight mounted to slide, SV modular trigger. Custom grip with Dawson Magwell. Arredondo thumb rest, "PowerPack" sight mount and mag followers. 3X 140mm and 1X 170mm mags. Email me and at djc02848@yahoo.com and I can send a video of the gun. With all that said I need a little advice on changing it over to a 9 – Why you ask? Ammo / brass. I also have about 8k round of 9 brass. I will be shooting USPSA and anything else I have time for. After reading so much about different barrels and there is so many choices and models to choose. It makes your head go in circles. I do under stand that the most important factor is fitting of the barrel, bushing, slide and the frame. If you owned this gun what would you do to it? What do I need? I do re-load so that won't be a problem. I think I will be ok with my mag’s if I load 147g at .1190.
  18. Well after my first I realized that I had posted in the wrong category. OOPS! As we all are having the same issues with regards to reloading, I am having a hard time finding reloading components to even get to shoot the 2 38 Supers I had bought a month ago. I currently have a Dillon 650 on order. I went to a shoot today and talked to the guy that I bought the pistols from and he told me that he had wished that I had told him that I was coming to the cowboy shoot today since he found a bag of ammo for the pistols he sold me that he had left over. At least I have a starting point, when setting up my OAL and such. After a phone call to Nowlin, I am still unsure of what diameter bullet I will need to order. .355 or .356? Maybe it souunds like I am paranoid, but I dont want any issues as far as reloading with the wrong bullet diameter and causing myself or my 14 year old son harm. I have witnessed 2 pistols coming apart with bad loads/cracked cases and do not wish that to happen, especially with my one in my son's hands. With the situation today with the ability of getting supplies, I do not want to order the wrong bullet diameter and have to wait that much longer to get the right ones. I did manage to get 3000 Starline Super Comp brass ordered and delivered within a couple of weeks. Heads up, at the time I placed the order, Starline had a prelimniary ship date of 8MAR13 on their website, but I received them on 6MAR13. I want to use Small Rifle Primers, which I have a source for locally. I cant get the quantity that I want but at least its a start. I used to reload with VV N350 solely 12 years ago. As we all know N350 is hard to come by. I have read prior posts and noticed that there are several powders that I can substiute. VV N105, VV 3N37, VV 3N38. ANy recommendations as to which might work the best for the pistols I have? I am not saying that I have to stay with VV. It is just the manufacturer that I always loaded the 38 supers with. Also, can someone give me some guidance as far as building up a load to get the comps to work the best? Since I will have a few rounds that were loaded by the previous owner for guidance, I will have a good starting point After reading prior posts about reloading, I have learned that you can also adjust the overall length of the rounuds to get the comp to work best along with amount of powder. What is the guidelines for this? How do you know when to do one and not the other? I know it is lot of questions. Thanks, Matt
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