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Found 10 results

  1. Some of my once fired brass for my .223 has scratches that are deep enough to feel with my fingernail, but they are tiny. Are these dangerous? or are they too small to cause any harm? i know dents are not too bad but i dont know what to consider for reload and not, because it is quite a few of them. but they have only been fired once. Thank for any advise.
  2. So I figured I should start this as a replacement to my scattered notes on shooting, this way they are in one place. Maybe others can help or my experience can help someone else out. I will try my best to organize posts for my own and other's sake. It may very well turn into an actual diary since shooting sports have quickly become a true passion of mine.
  3. I am getting into the sport of 3-Gun. What are the advantages, or your experiences, with 9mm carbines versus a .223 rifle?
  4. I have a bunch of once fired Lake City 5.56 with very shallow primer pockets. They measure on average .090 vs. spec of .117-.123. In 7 years of reloading and 10's of thousands of rounds I can't say that I have seen this and have always used Lake City for my match brass. Any ideas on what the root cause is? Machine gun brass? Built out of tolerance? Obviously it is resulting in high primers that are fully seated. I tested the offending cases and they seem to function but I'm very uncomfortable with it. Thoughts?
  5. I recently bit the bullet (and drained the bank account) and purchased a Dillon Super 1050 reloader with a complete Mark7 Autodrive setup for 9mm & .223/5.56mm. I am asking for any and all recipes you folks might have for 9mm to meet Minor PF for USPSA/IPSC Production, IDPA SSP/ESP, as well as Steel matches and general target shooting. Ideally, I would like to use the same basic load for various pistols including Glock 19/17/34, CZ SP01, EAA/Tango, and Sig P320. I am looking for 9mm loads using 124gr projectiles (have plenty on hand already) and either Titegroup, CFE Pistol or AutoComp powders (all on hand). As for .223/5.56mm, I will be using it for local 3Gun and carbine matches with a 55gr projectile and leaning towards Varget or CFE223 powders. Any and all recipes or help is greatly appreciated! Thanks all!
  6. OK. So after probably close to four months of anxiety, reading, laziness, 'it's too hot outside to work on the bench' isms after getting my Dillon 650 I finally sat down and worked all the kinks out and got my first 20 bullets of .223 loaded with 8208 XBR. I started with X-Treme Bullets 55 Grain FMJ and based on the limited data http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle?&CartridgeName=223+Remington&OrderBW%5B%5D=55&Manufacturer%5B%5D=All&Powder%5B%5D=IMR+8208+XBR had I started with the lowest number of 21.5 Grains. I only managed to crush one .223 brass while setting up the dies (the crimp die oops) and with no primer explosions even though I put them in upside down (sigh) and had to take it all apart to get them out of there I finally got the rounds loaded and looking good on everything I could measure with. I took them out to the range yesterday and fired them through my chrono. I accomplished the three important things. They Didn't Explode, I didn't shoot my Chrono (it was at 25 yards) and I didn't shoot the light stand I bought for my camera gear that cost more than the chrono. This is the data I got. My question is, other than 'knowing' from other sources that I should use more powder, is there some kind of math you would do to decide what grain to go to next to get up to the 2700 FPS range? I have the Lyman manual and the 'ABC's of Reloading' book and I read those once but I don't remember seeing that. Is it trial and error? if so, what's a decent number to increase your load by ? I checked all the fired brass and they looked no different from the production brass I also fired after for comparison. The primers were dented and not blown back flat, there was no splits/cracks on the re-fired brass. My brass was once fired by me in the same rifle and picked up and cleaned & re-used. Thanks for any comments.
  7. Last week I received all the components needed to start reloading .223 on my Dillon XL650. I've been loading 9mm for about a year now and I'm wanting to develop a load for training with my AR-15. I loaded some test rounds and went out yesterday to record data with my chrono. My loads were.... - Hornady 55 grain FMJ - PMC Brass trimmed to 1.750" - CCI Small Rifle No. 400 Primers - CFE223 (test rounds loaded at 24.0, 24.5, 25.0, 25.5, 26.0, 26.5) - 2.245" OAL * shot out of 14.5" barrel I searched the forum and web for CFE223 load data and found most used 25.0 grains - 27.0 grains so I loaded my test rounds at 24.0, 24.5, 25.0, 25.5, 26.0, 26.5. All the cases gauged correctly in my Dillon Case Gauge. I started off shooting some Federal .223 55 Grain FMJ which had an average of 2,763 fps. and ejected towards 4:00. I then went to my reloads and started with 24.0 grain loads which had an average of 2,381 fps, 4:00 ejection pattern and had light felt recoil. Next was 24.5... averaged 2,414 fps., 3:00 ejection pattern and had just slightly more felt recoil than the 24.0 grain loads. I went to 25.5 grain loads which averaged 2,551 fps, had a 2:00/1:00 ejection pattern and the recoil was strong. The ejection pattern of the brass and the felt recoil make me think there may be too much pressure but the velocity was 200 fps. lower than the Federal that I shot. I didn't try the 26.0 or 26.5 loads because of the signs of high pressure with the 25.5 loads. I moved my chrono around a couple of times, changed my distance slightly and had the same fps results. Even if the reading wasn't exactly correct, all the results were recorded at the same time, in the same conditions and my reloads had lower velocity & more recoil than the Federal. Can anyone give me some advice on why I had signs of higher pressure and more felt recoil with my reloads that were 200 fps. lower than the Federal rounds I shot?
  8. I am reloading both .223 and now 300 Black Out. I am having a help of a time getting the right size in the primer pockets for both 5.56 LC and .223 FC Remington. I either swage too much and the primers drop out or are loose or my Dillon 500b will not seat about 30% of my primers which can be very frustrating. Any one have some tips on calibrating the Dillon Super Swage? I have heard you can over swage and you should set it up to just swage the opening of the primer pocket and not swage too deep. I also use one of those "cutters" to lightly cut out the crap before I swage. I had thought I would not have to swage .223 Remington FC since they were not military primers but I find they feed in my 550 a lot better if I swage at least one time before I use them from reloading (factory brass). Also any tips on tools to check the size of a primer pocket to see if its too big or small? thanks
  9. Hello all, I'm a new loader running into a lot of problems that are frankly making me want to give up, sell my stuff, and buy more factory ammo instead. I'm hoping someone can help me... Relevant Equipment list: RL550B press, Dillon dies (.223), Lyman .223 case gauge, "WFT" .223 trimmer Relevant Components list: Hornady 75gr BTHP Match bullets, Wolf .223 primers, once-fired Lake City brass (fired from my rifle, all from the same case of Federal M193), H335 powder, 2.260 COAL Relevant Firearm: home built AR built around a White Oak 20" 1:7 SDM barrel When I first got my press, everything seemed to adjust and happen the way I expected it to, based on the books and articles and advice I'd read/been given. I got everything adjusted for headspace, seating/COAL, and crimping. After doing something like 50 cases (checking each with my Lyman case gauge), I did about 1000 cases. When I was done, I went to doublecheck my headspace and found that 95% of my resized brass was wrong; it stuck up just past the "no go" top lip of the case gauge. (Yes, I've double checked the case gauge. Factory ammo gauges properly.) >< Ok, so I take 50 of the correct pieces I have and I get the rest nailed down with a ladder. I go test it out, find the load that shoots great for my gun. Success! I go back to load some more and find that my dies have surface rust spots all over them. Apparently my storage was insufficient and humidity was too high. (I had just moved, long story) I strip it all down, clean it all, and oil it all. Press is back in business, but all my adjustments are gone. (if relevant: I cleaned the dies by soaking in Hoppes #9, then using a brass chamber brush for the inside of the dies and a brass brush for the outside. I cleaned the press with WD40 and paper towels--no soaking, just spray and wipe) Now I'm trying to get everything readjusted, and NOTHING IS WORKING CORRECTLY. I try to adjust my full length sizing die, and nothing works right. I follow the die instructions (raise press, screw in till touches baseplate, back out 1/2 turn) and the case stays the same (slightly too long for the case gauge). Screw it in a little further, nothing happens. Screw it in some more....and suddenly the base of my cases is somehow warped and the case won't fit in the case gauge at all? If I turn the brass around, I literally can't get the base in the gauge; it's stretched or squished or lopsided or SOMETHING. But if I rubber mallet the case in the gauge anyway (can you tell I'm desperate by this point?), it's still slightly too long. Are my dies screwed up due to the (removed) surface rust spots? Did I ruin them cleaning them? Am I missing some laughably obvious newbie issue? My attempts to Google similar search terms have been utterly unsuccessful thus far. Help?
  10. Being experienced in pistol reloading I have no experience with rifle rounds. I have found and prepared the brass. Found the primers wolf .223. I found a decent buy for some .223 bullets. Speer 65 grain gameking spitzer boat tail. I cannot find any reloading data on this bullet for CFE 223 or ARComp powders. I have searched the powder manufacture and bullet manufactures websites but have found nothing. I have found web responses saying use a smaller bullet load and work up. Found another article saying not to to use the smaller use the heavier load and work up. I do not want to blow up a brand new rifle. I just need a safe starting load to start working this round up. So I have come to the experts.
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