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Found 41 results

  1. I recently installed a CGW competition hammer on my CZ P01 and everything worked fine for about 300 rounds. On my fourth outing with it the trigger got hard to pull a couple of times and then went dead. I can decock it and shoot one shot in DA, but the trigger is dead for the SA shot. I took it home and wiggled the trigger until it started working again and lubed it up just in case. This morning I took it back to the range and after about 8 shots it got hard to pull in SA and then went dead again. I brought it home and wiggled the trigger again and now it works in SA, but there is a delay before the hammer falls. Any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong in the install? Thanks for any help.
  2. I recently had my gen 4 glock trigger crack right by the tip of the safety to the top of the trigger, rare but it happened so glock replaced the whole assembly within one day. Great customer service. Oddly though the housing which holds the ejector ( not the trigger or bar) has a number stamp on it which is a #2. Now my glock 22 has a #1 and my glock 35 has a #1 as well which kinda made me wonder if this is the right housing assembly? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
  3. I have a STI Trojan I bought used last year. It has a pretty heavy trigger pull – seems like a carry gun. I want to lighten it up and switch to the SV trigger. If I purchase this: https://www.speedshooter.com/product_detail.cfm?id=SVITT1911C&n=SVI-Trigger-Base-Titanium-Bow-1911--Color Will that play well with the stock STI parts or should I more parts as well. Thanks!
  4. I searched but no luck. Anyone make a good 9mm AR trigger?
  5. OK, here's the deal. I bought a new .40sw witness match last year. Took it apart, following instructions here, polished up plunger, trigger bar, firing pin and slightly chamfered the firing pin keeper to make racking smoother. All was done just to make it a more enjoyable range toy. Then a buddy invited me to a local steel challenge. I tried an xdm-40, but it's just nowhere near as easy / fun as the match. So, I used that and while it's easier to time me by phases of the moon, it has been a lot of fun. So, what's the issue? Well, I'm uncomfortable speed drawing from the holster in SA. Yeah, I know... Anyway, ebay provided a kit of parts from a 9mm witness P - trigger on the bar, sear assembly, misc pins/springs and a hammer w interrupter and long curved strut. After scratching my head over that, gunbroker had an auction for a kit of new parts bought from Henning to convert a hunter to DA. Not "needing" them I bid and got them fot the oppening bid of $0.01. Finally, to the point. I put the new trigger onto the ebay bar, keeping the original SA assembly intact. Then used the new std hammer and interruptr with the match short strut and factory spring. The new parts were polished prior to installation. Well, the SA trigger is still pretty good, but not as good as before. But the DA is ... not good. Heavy and gets heavier stacking at the end. Yuck. Oddly, inspecting the "P sear assembly to the match showed differences, so they were swapped - yielding a slight improvement. But still sucky. Holding the trigger back, the hammer can be cycled without binding, but that spring is stout. I ordered a hammer spring kit from Henning, along with his firing pin and sight set thinking that will make it all better. But, I keep reading about improvement from changing hammer and sear. So... what amount of improvement is gained from hammer and sear? Is the bulk gain from the hammer spring? Or changes in geometry in the sear and hammer? Is changing to lower power trigger return and sear springs worth the effort? Sorry for the rambling! John
  6. I want to install an Infinity trigger with different length trigger inserts in my STI Edge .40 S&W. Main reason for the Infinity trigger is to use the long flat trigger insert because I have long fingers. My fingers are too long for the standard plastic trigger that came with my Edge. Have to admit that I also like the look of the Infinity triggers. What is the procedure for widening the trigger area on an Edge's grip? I haven't removed the trigger from my Edge yet, but it looks like the trigger rides in a polymer channel. What's the best way to widen this channel to fit the Infinity trigger? It seems like a more delicate job than just filing it out with a metal file. How much wider is the Infinity trigger? It couldn't be too much wider than the original STI trigger because the trigger guard isn't much wider than the trigger itself. I've searched for articles on this installation, but haven't found any that explain the operation. Any thoughts, ideas, or links would help.
  7. What's the lightest pull you've achieved? DA/SA and do you have to use certain primers to maintain 100% reliability. Along with how you did it.
  8. Looking to buy a svi trigger insert but cant find anywhere that is not charging a arm and a leg for shipping.Does anybody know somewhere who sells them other than SSI,SV, brownells and powerfactor. Or does anybody have a med curve or med flat they would like to sell?
  9. Seems to me the only redeeming quality of the 1911 is the trigger. So why hasn't anyone incorporated that style trigger into higher cap, reliable, 9mm and 40 style production pistols? This just seems to be a no-brainer to me. Any ideas/explanations? In my mind, an all steel pistol with that trigger could easily overtake the STI in competitions. Part of me wants to run the 'best' gun but when I see other's near constant problems and the need for expensive gunsmithing, it becomes much less attractive.
  10. I want to give a review of Johnny Glocks competition trigger in case there are any people on the fence about getting one. As a preface, I have had the .25 trigger job then upgraded to a Vanek Classic trigger in a Gen 3 G17. I watched Johnny’s videos on his new trigger geometry but I was a little skeptical so I called and left him a message. I received a return call a couple hours later and he was very pleasant on the phone in addition to going into great detail about his work. It didn’t take me long to realize this is a guy that truly loves his work and is proud of it. If experience has taught me anything, this is the type of person’s products you want to buy. I ordered his competition trigger for a G34 Gen 4 which arrived about 2 days later. Installation was very straight forward but Johnny does have online videos for those first timers out there. I opted for the 4.5# striker spring that according to the sheet included should give a crisp wall break with a pull weight of 2.5 – 3 lbs. This trigger also included springs with different pull weights for defensive carry (4.5 – 5lbs), Tactical (3.5 – 4lbs) and Target (3 – 3.5lbs) so you could always repurpose it if you needed to. The rest of the kit’s parts include a trigger bar with custom ground sear engagement, adjustable trigger housing (pre and over travel), 3.5# enhanced connector and safety plunger. I have right around 2700 rounds through the trigger and the only 2 clicks I have had were both from high primers (I use Winchester SPP) that were obviously my fault. The trigger has performed flawlessly and I am extremely impressed by it. There was ZERO pre/post travel upon installation and no adjustments were necessary. Trigger break is excellent and honestly I cannot imagine a Glock trigger getting much better than this and all Glock safeties work to boot! So I know the question you are asking is how does it compare to the Vanek Classic? The Vanek was installed in ’09 and has a slightly lighter trigger break however it has at least 28K rounds through it so that might make a difference. Reliability wise, the Vanek shot all my reloads with Winchester SSP with the exception of the occasional high primer. While my sampling with Johnny’s is only around 10% of the rounds shot through the Vanek, I would suspect to see the same reliability from what I have seen so far. As far as trigger pull goes, Johnny has it hands down. The zero pre/post travel is absolutely phenomenal and I wouldn’t have believed you could get anywhere near this out of a Glock trigger. Even my diehard 1911 buddies were amazed by it. The trigger break and reset are outstanding and I honestly find it difficult to go back and shoot my Vanek after having used Johnny’s for about 2 months now and will probably wind up ordering another Johnny Glocks for my G17. I did purchase this trigger in April when the price was still $140 which was a complete steal but I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it even consider it a bargain at its current $200 price tag. Once you try his new trigger geometry you will be hooked just like I am.
  11. Just did the $0.25 polish job with a dremel and although everything feels smoother the trigger won't reset consistently when manually racking the slide. This happens every other time I rack the slide. I'm very new to Glocks (Sig guy normally) so I'm not sure what part of the trigger assembly isn't grabbing. Did I overpolish something? Does the safety plunger grab the top of the trigger bar when the slide comes forward or is it the striker?
  12. Is there anyone doing trigger work on the FNS pistols? Has anybody done their own? Any help will be appreciated.
  13. I bit the bullet a few months back and sold my XD to switch to a G34. My XD had a 3lb trigger from Springer Precision and it was awesome. I recently had a ZEV/Glockwox "Standard Competition Trigger" (ZT-STD-C-4G9-COMP) in an effort to clean up my trigger a bit. However, with my first 4 mags I had 4 light strikes, I'm using CCI #500 small pistol primers. I'm ruling out ammo being the issue as it runs fine through the gun with factory parts in it. The kit came with both a 2# and 3# striker spring. The 2# is installed, will switching to the 3# spring most likely solve my issue? Any other ideas to get a cleaner trigger while having 100% reliability? Thanks in advance.
  14. Has anyone put an Apex trigger on their CARRY gun? I know many have on their competition gun. Just wondering what people's thoughts were.
  15. Here are a couple of pictures and a link to my video showing the trigger travel after I have installed a trigger stop & a pre-travel adjustment screws on my Benelli Supernova. The pre-travel adjustment screw is installed as shown in the attached pictures. I found this as the most suitable option after I had "simulated" the trigger movement a bit. I removed a little bit of material in the opening in front of the trigger to allow for proper movement of the trigger. I decided to install the trigger stop screw in the trigger guard behind the trigger. This could also have been installed on the trigger. I have not done any modifications to the sear, disconnector and hammer. Therefore there is still the original trigger creep before it breaks. Video:
  16. I recently picked up the M&P Shield in 9mm, and love it. Also started loading and shooting bayou bullets as love them as well. The pistol is reliable and the bullts are accurate with no leading and little smoke. 124 gr bayou bullet Starline case CCI SP primer Power pistol powder (going to try longshot and bluedot when I can find it) Anyway I got in touch with apex tactical to find out if their Forward Set Sear and Trigger kit will work in the Shield. It will not but was told they maybe working on it with R&D. Apparently they have gotten a number of requests for this, so if there is anyone out there that would be interested in this product from them please contact themand let them know!
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