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Found 118 results

  1. Hi everyone this is my first post. I have been reloading around a year and have a thumblers tumbler and stainless media to clean my brass along with dish soap and lemishine. I find that if I wait too long(2 weeks) to inspect my brass I have a hard time inspecting it due to the oxidation/hard water spots that develop on the surface. I see lots of people use Nu Finish with dry medias but was wondering if anyone has tried it with wet tumbling as a final rinse cycle. Highly polished brass is nice to look at, but my main concern is having the brass clean and shiny to inspect, and not have the oxidation block any defects. I may just give it a try and see what happens.
  2. I currently shoot a lot of USPSA in limited 40 major. My load is 180 grn with titegroup and I'm looking to try out some new loads using 165 and 200 to see what I like the best. Gun is a 40 custom from predator tactical with an sti frame and briley barrel. Anybody have load data I can try out?
  3. I have 2000 60 Gr. VMAX and an 8 pounder of H335. Is anybody using these components for their 3-gunning? I'm looking for a good load in a 16" AR. I'm running 23.2 grains right now but it is only doing 2650 in my gun. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks! -Shaky
  4. Mostly due to availablility I have been reloading my 9mm, 40 and 45 acp pistol ammo with IMR 4756. The powder flakes coat the inside of the powder measure as the powder level drops down. Is this common? A problem? Doesn't seem to affect the charges being dropped which are pretty consistent.
  5. Anyone have any recommendations on a load for Hodgon Hi-Skor 800-X and 124gr RN (Rainier Ballistics)? Hodgon only has one recipe (seen below).
  6. So, for the past 1,500+ rounds of 9mm everything has been running great -- including the case feeder & bullet feeder (LNL). No raining brass, cases not tipping over, no major stoppages, etc. But, I am out of N340 and I am low on 45's and so need to change up for another caliber. Not that it's a problem or very time consuming but I hate it when the press is running perfectly and I have to switch everything over to another caliber.
  7. Hi Guys, I'm new here but saw some good answers on the forums and I'm looking for answers!! I'm a long time re-loader for many calibers including 9mm but my kid wants to start competition shooting with a 9mm and now my Dad is asking me for 9mm ammo so I need to load in bulk and I have a few questions. I'm looking for a good low cost but all around 9mm load for IPSC, IDPA and plinking. As an example, I load 45 ACP for friends and family members and found a load that covers most applications: 200 gr, Hard cast LSWC .45 H&G #68 style - originally using Win 231 but switched to Clays 10 years ago. This load works in almost every modern 45 (including 1911's), it's cheap to reload, super accurate (Sub 2 inch groups in many guns is common) and low smoke. I used to really like 231 but went to Clays because it's way less smoke. Also, I want to use lead bullets but since my carry gun is a P7M8 (that I will start shooting more, also), I was told plated bullets are a better choice. Keep in mind, I load for everyone and give half my ammo away, so affordable is important. My carry load in the P7 are 115 JHP, so I prefer staying with a 115gr. bullet weight or maybe a compromise of 124gr. But if everyone thinks I should be using 147gr for reloading - so be it. What Bullet / Powder Recommendations??? HELP - I need to buy a bunch of supplies and get busy loading!! Sean
  8. So my reloading setup is in my garage/workshopshop - and I live on an avocado grove. So keeping out pests is a full-time problem, as is dust and dirt. Mice, lizards, black widows, etc. are always around. The cats keep the mice in check to a limited degree. I store things in 56qt Sterlite containers from Wallyworld, as well as tupperware and ammo cans. And, I found 4"x4"x4" cardboard boxes really cheap from U-Line - they make fantastic cast boolit storage. One thing I don't have, is a way to store tool heads, without them becoming magnets for spiders. I want it convenient, not tucked away in an ammo can. I'd like to know what others do and their techniques...? Bench photos are great too. Steve
  9. I need some guidance. I have 40 cal 165 gr Rainier HP bullets with a choice of Accurate no. 5 or Unique powder and am having trouble finding load data. Shooting a Beretta 96- just for fun.. With no concern over PF. Reloading on Dillon 550 with Dillon dies. Thanks in advance for the help.
  10. I just recently started shooting Open, and man am I having trouble finding reloading components! I finally found brass, and luckily I have 2lbs of HS-6 lying around, but that'll be gone soon. Where are you guys finding stuff? I've heard that finding 3n38 this year will be harder than finding Jimmy Hoffa (sorry, couldn't resist) because of the Lapua acquisition. I can't even find HS-6 anymore. Thoughts?
  11. When I reload 9, I typically deprime and case gauge before cleaning. This way, I can identify any bulges before loading them up. Then, I case gauge them agan before putting them into the ammo box. Yes, I'm a little OCD when it comes to case gauging. So now, I am preparing to load my first batch of 38 super comp. I have a case gauge for 38 super auto - will this work for 38 super comp brass? The reason I ask is because I'm finding a LOT more bulged cases than with 9. It is probably due to the increased pressures, but it can't hurt to ask if I'm using the correct gauge. Thanks in advance!
  12. Hey Y'all, 124gr Montana Gold FMJ 3.8grs Vihta Vhouri 320 Mixed Headstamp on brass (mostly range pickup all inspected during hand priming) Reloaded on a RCBS Single Stage, Loads metered and weighed with an RCBS Chargemaster 1500 Some loads double checked on an RCBS 5-0-5. My barrel is wrecked and I don't know what happened. I was practicing double taps at the range and my Glock 34 locked up with a live round in the chamber. The slide sat back about 1/4'' and would not cycle forward or backwards. I eventually was able to work the slide back far enough to remove the backplate, firing pin, etc and got the slide off the rim of the 9mm case that was lodged in the barrel. I carefully removed the cartridge from the chamber using a butterknife on the rim. Loads Chronographed at 960 avg. Varied A LOT from 901-1020fps with most in the 930 to 980 range. When I examined the inside of the barrel a "pressure ring" on the around the rifling is noticeable. Looks like the rifling got compressed. Anyone experienced this or have an idea what the heck happened? I've been anal rententive while reloading (about 2-3 years experience. I can't afford to have this mistake happen again, but I'm not sure what I did. My loads are a little under powered. I'm fairly certain the standard deviation is from the mixed brass. Some of the flash holes have really bad burrs from the factory. But none of that explains what happened. I'm sure I'm missing something.
  13. I was turned on to this forum by a friend and I am looking to gain more knowledge and a better understanding of reloading. I have just purchased a reloading set-up and only need to start the process, however I am hesitant since this is my first time and have never even seen it done. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  14. Recently restocked quite a bit of fully processed brass: Lake City 5.56 fully processed and primed brass Primed with CCI #41 military primers, 250 count bags, $55.99 300 Blackout brass, formed from military auction Lake City, fully prepped, annealed, and primed with CCI #41 military primers, 250 count bag, $69.99 We also have the same items unprimed, for a full listing of all brass, visit our listings of all fully processed 5.56 and 300 blackout brass. Our brass sells out often, but we are constantly restocking. Our web site has real time inventory, so if something is out of stock, check back later.
  15. I'm working up a 40 major load and thinking through how to adequately allow for powder temperature sensitivity when doing chrono work in the winter. I'm not going to surf so close to PF 165 that I'm worried about velocity. I just want to make sure I'm getting summer case pressure levels for over pressure evaluation. Sticking to VV powders reduces the issue significantly, but even VV has some temperature sensitivity. Their manual lists a 1% velocity increase and 3% case pressure increase with each 18 degree (f) increase. Using round numbers, a load that produces 1000fps at 20 degrees would develop 5% more velocity (1050fps) and 15% more case pressure at 110 degrees. If I increase the powder charge to give 1050fps at 20 degrees, would I be producing the 15% additional pressure at the lower temperature as well? And would this allow me to evaluate the case pressure signs I would experience at 110 degrees? That being said, I don't plan on trusting those extremes. I'm just wondering if that logic is sound. For now my goal is to produce indoor practice ammo that's close to the what I'll shoot this summer. So I'll be doing chrono work at 30-35 degrees for what I'll initially be shooting around 70 degrees. And obviously once it's being shot indoors it'll get real case pressure evaluation at 70 degrees. Then once outdoor temperatures come up I'll run the same incremental test again. Thanks!
  16. February 8th, 2014: Noveske Shooting Team 3-Gun Training Class Cawthon Cartridge Club http://www.ccctactical.com/find-us/ $350 Contact Cat@cccshooters.com or 214-422-7793 to sign up February 9th, 2014: Noveske Shooting Team Shotgun Course Cawthon Cartridge Club http://www.ccctactical.com/find-us/ $350 Contact Cat@cccshooters.com or 214-422-7793 to sign up The Noveske Shooting Team 3 Gun Training class is unlike any other program currently taught. This course was developed entirely by Jansen Jones and Rob Romero as an interactive class to improve a shooters match performance and enhance their match finishes at multi gun as well as rifle and shotgun matches. The class was founded on the concept that it would be a class they would want to take themselves. Through the use of their unique micro block curriculum, small class size, personalized attention and most of all, attention to detail, students will see improvement within the first few hours of the program. Participants are expected to treat the class like a match; the class will be broken down into 3 gun stages, micro blocks of instruction focusing on key 3 gun concepts (shotgun reloading, barricade/port shooting, stage breakdown etc.), a man-versus-man shoot-off session and more. Students are paying for a class that costs as much as a major match and the goal is to provide each student with as much of a match experience as possible all while improving your 3 gun game. This class is for the novice to intermediate level student and will deliver focused instruction on specific skills, strategies, and stages of 3 Gun Competition. Team Noveske will also discuss in depth Immediate action drills, unconventional shooting techniques and barricades . Steel, paper, flippers, Texas stars and plates are all engaged at contact distance out to 100 yards. Students are expected to arrive with rifle zero known at 100 yards, as well as point of aim/point of impact at 5, 25 and 50 yards. About the instructors: Instructor: Rob Romero is a USPSA Grandmaster in Production. He won the 2010 FNH USA3 Gun Nation Shoot Off back in May. Rob was selected to represent the USA at the 2010 Pan American Shotgun Championship and is currently ranked top 5 in all Pan American Countries in Standard shotgun. Rob is the 2011 Heavy Metal Division winner based on the 3 Gun Nation points series and holds titles from Rocky Mtn, Ozark 3 Gun and FNH USA 3 Gun Championships in 2011 alone. In 2012 Rob was named the USPSA Heavy Metal National Champion and the 2012 Tactical Shotgun Champion in Standard division. Instructor: Jansen Jones was selected to represent the USA at the 2010 Pan American Shotgun Championships where he took a Gold Medal in the team event shooting alongside his teammates on the US National Team at the 2010 Pan American. Jansen is the 2011 and 2012 Tactical Shotgun Championship Division winner in pump shotgun and placed 3rd overall in Heavy Metal Optics in 3 Gun Nations points series. Jones is selected to represent the United States in Standard Manual division at the 2012 World Shotgun Championships in Debrecen, Hungary where he placed in the top 15 in the world . Jones is currently in the top 48 shooters on the 3 Gun Nation PRO SERIES tour for 2012. Instructor: James Casanova is the latest addition to the Noveske Shooting Team. Joining Rob and Jansen in 2013, James brings his amazing shooting skills to the NST class by focusing on the load two program with shotgun reloading. As co-owner of Carbon Arms, James has been instrumental in advancing shotgun reloading, especially with getting new shooters up to speed in reloading fast with his methods. James is currently in the top then on the 3GN Pro Series and is the 2012 Hornady Divisional Money winner in tactical irons. James placed 2nd overall at the 2012 Tactical Shotgun Championship and holds numerous titles in tac irons during the 2012 season. Equipment List: Ammo: 200rds each – Pistol / Rifle / Shotgun (Birdshot) + 15-20 Slugs Belt based load out preferred: (5-6) 4rd or 6rd Shotgun carriers or what you use in a match (the means to carry 20 shells on your person after the buzzer) or any of Carbon Arms Load Two/ Reloading systems. Strong side Kydex pistol holster (non race type preferred) (2-3) Pistol magazines and pouches for belt Extended / Coupled / Singles / 20s-30s-45s (whatever you use in regular matches) (2) Rifle magazine pouches for belt Clothes and Protection: Eye protection / Sun glasses ( clear lenses and dark lenses if possible) Ear protection (electronic if you have them but not necessary) Baseball hat or cap / Sun block Pants (you will be shooting from various positions and surfaces) Boots / Cleats (ankle support is more important than grip) Elbow and Knee pads (elbow pads are needed and knee pads are optional) Appropriate weather shirt and or undershirt (long and short sleeved) Tools/wrenches that work on your firearms and optics Rain Gear Leather gloves/outdoor work type gloves Notebook and Pen (means to take notes and AAR) Lunch/snacks Treat this class as a match, bring whatever extra parts you would travel with to a major multi gun event. This includes match clothes. What you don’t need / Please leave at home: 1. Tactical Vests 2. Chest Rigs 3. Lasers 4. Goggles 5. Suppressors 6. Helmets 7. Armor 8. Flashlights 9. Camel Backs 10. Shemaghs 11. Ghillie Suits 12. Throat Mics 13. Face Paint 14. MREs 15. Camouflage 16. Flash Bangs 17. Smoke Grenades 18. Hand Signals 19. Radios 20. Thigh Rigs (unless you actually use one in competition)
  17. So after 15 years, I've been forced to change powder since VV N350 is no longer available. Seems 3N38 is the only other VV option still in stock. Does anyone have a proven load for 38 Super 5" (32 Twist) 3 port HybriComp barrel, and 115gr bullets? Or something that will get me started? Thanks, Dave Pruitt davidpruitt.com
  18. Hey all, I just received my Dillon XL650 a few months ago and have been reloading .380AUTO for my Ruger LCP on it and I love it! I've made about 500 rounds and now I'm ready to add 40S&W for my Glock 22. I've been reading up in the forums about "GLOCKED" brass but I was wondering if someone could tell me what additional items I need to get 40S&W reloading. They are both small pistol primers and the same shell plate, so I am good there. I guess all I need is the 40S&W Dillon dyes? I've read up on the EGW/Lee Undersize dies and the Lee Factory Crimp Die, but I was just planning using the Dillon dies until I ran into a problem, unless you guys think thats a bad idea or if it would be cheaper to just purchase the single dillon die I need for the powder then get the other Lee dies separately? I will also be purchasing a 40S&W case gauge and I was thinking of copying what some other people here do with the "quick caliber change" by buying an extra toolhead and powder dispenser, so I can just pull the toolhead out for the caliber change. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  19. I've been reloading handgun rounds for a while now so I'm not entirely unfamiliar with the process involved with reloading. However, I've been shooting a lot of 12ga (#6, BB, 00Buck) and would like to spend less on new 12ga ammo. I've been saving my hulls and have a Lee Load All 2 and the Lyman 49th shotshell manual and about 50 Winchester WAA12 Wads. Questions: 1. Should I stick with Winchester or Remington primers or are Cheddite primers just as good? 2. I've heard once you start using Cheddite primers you have to stick with them because they supposedly widen the primer pocket just slightly. Thoughts on this? 3. Any powders or wads I should stay away from? I've dot plenty of load data so I'm not going to pester anyone for data (yet) but anything y'all can help me watch out for would be appreciated. I apologize in advance if these questions have been asked before. -JD
  20. One more update. I've been shooting now for about 6 months, and having a blast. I downloaded the Walmart app on my cell phone and it's been a great help in finding bullets. Although the bullets are costing me a fortune, Walmart is the best deal around. I have shot three USPSA matches and have been reading all the books and practicing hard. It's really a cool sport. You can put a lot into it, or just go and have fun. I noticed pretty quickly that I was having problems with pain in my forearms, so it inspired me to finally get off my butt and join a gym. This has helped a lot, and I'm feeling better than I have in years. As far as my gun choice is conserved the xdm 9 5.25 has been great. I have no doubt that it was the right choice. I have a couple of old family hunting guns, but the xdm is all I want. I'm enjoying studying competition shooting, and I'm going to try to get as far as a 50 year old man can go. The drills, shooting on the move, the challenges of the matches, it's all very enjoyable. So far I've been able to maintain a stock of about 1000 rounds but today I'm down to about 50. I'm going to hit Walmart in the morning and snatch a few boxes of fifty. I usually do pretty good with finding 100 boxes, but no luck this week. If I don't buy something soon I'll be out of business. I've decided that I want to shoot about 250 rounds twice a week. This is in addition to 4 dry fire sessions. It seems to be working, my first match I came in 18 of 20, and on the second match I was 11 of 20. When I received the scores on my third match I was still stuck at 11, but after I double checked the scores posted on the USPSA web sit against the photos of the score sheets, I noticed a 56 point error. So I really came in 8th. That's a pretty good jump for me. And if it wasn't for hit on a no shoot and a stupid failure to engage I could have taken 5th. I need to somehow learn and practice stage breakdown. This is the second Mach where I've either didn't see a target behind a barrel, or got distracted by a bad reload and ran off leaving a target with no holes. This mantle part of the game is very hard for me. I've noticed the top shooters are pretty sharp guys and their brains operate faster than they can blast their way through a coarse. Me, not so much. I'm really going need to figure out a way to learn the stage programming and visualization techniques. I would like to receive any comments or suggestions. Also any comments on the amount of ammo I'm shooting would Also be helpful. I'm chinking of buying a Dillon 650XL. Does anyone have a load they could recommend for shooting production USPSA? I'm looking for cheep and available. The federal ammo 115gr I'm getting at Walmart is about 25 cents a pop ..plus tax, and I'm hoping to use the new press to reduce my cost of ammo about 50%. Thanks in advance I'm sure I'll get some good info.
  21. Hello, I am looking to see if anyone has or uses something to “stand up” their full primer tubes as you are reloading? Does anyone make a stand, bracket, or clips to keep the tubes upright so the primers don’t get flipped? (I know that this should not happen in the tube, but I have had a tube “fall” over on the bench and it let the last primers flip over in the tube.) Or am I on the road to making a million bucks for my really cool, and limited target audience invention? Kevin
  22. Just reloaded a batch of 100, 40 caliber rounds on a Dillon 650. Once completed I checked all of them with a case gauge and 32 rounds did not seat all the way in. During the reloading I made sure the handle traveled the full distance up/down. I'm new to reloading so any suggestion would help. The brass is once fired from a glock, and I have heard of problems with case bulge, so I'm not sure if that's an issue.
  23. What is the best set of dies for reloading
  24. I came into a good stash of LT32 and with the scarcity of my preferred powders I've been trying to work with it with limited success. I have the data from Accurate but my accuracy is inconsistent and velocities less than other powders even loading to Max with the 223 data. There are no over pressure signs and there is data for 5.56 which I'm considering working slowly into before giving up. Any one with experience and data on this, regardless of bullet weight, is greatly appreciated.
  25. Hi everyone and welcome to the Ballistic Tools vendor forum. Ballistic Tools is more than just a web store, it is a resource for reloaders and shooters. We provide unique tools, articles, and more. Below is a list of some of our signature products and features: The Swage Gage: A Ballistic Tools exclusive and one of our most popular items, a go and no-go gauge for your primer pockets. Lets you easily check that a military crimp is fully removed, that the pocket depth is correct, and that the pocket isn't too loose, all in one quick step. Small pistol and rifle version currently available, large primer version coming soon. Fully reprocessed 5.56 and 300 Blackout: Primed or unprimed, fully reprocessed and ready to load. Buying primed brass is a good way to save on Hazmat fees. All our 300 Blackout is annealed, and all our brass goes through a rigorous process to ensure a quality product. Dillon replacement parts and bearing kits: Dillon trimmer cutter blades, die lock nuts, and bearing kits, all at better prices than you'll get from Dillon or elsewhere on the Internet. Royal Case and Die Lube: This is the best sizing lube I've ever used. We use it for all our bulk brass reprocessing. No drying time, no stuck cases, no sticky cases that pick up every bit of dirt and scratch your dies. I just dump the cases in a ziplock bag, spray a little of this in, and shake. The cases come out nearly dry and size with almost no effort. Smells good too. Projectiles: We've got 55gr Hornady 223 projectiles in stock, at competitive prices, as well as a selection of Montana Gold at less-than-case quantities. Articles: Check out our articles regarding Dillon equipment and reloading. We are always working on new products and features. In addition to the large primer pocket gauge, we have a several more unique tools in the pipeline for the next 6 months.
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