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Found 117 results

  1. I had a request for a single caliber version so here it is. You can just swap out the number in the 1 remaining field for whatever you want to find cost to reloading that single caliber. FYI, it was easy to edit the original, just delated all the fields for calibers I didn't want, and the only formula I had to fix was the Avg cost per round at the bottom. I went to just add this to the original post, but there didn't seem to be a way to edit the post any longer. Can you only edit a post for a defined period of time? ReloadingCost - Single Calber-2020.xlsxReloadingCost - Single Calber-2020.numbers
  2. *Found a formula error and fixed Reloading Cost-2020.xlsxSo, I first made this spreadsheet back in the mid 2000's when I started reloading. I've been on a layover for the past 4 days so I decided to update it and see what's changed in the decade and half plus since I first made it. I updated it a little when the great ammo/reloading supply shortage of the mid 2000's hit, but haven't touched it since. I figured I might as well share it with others as well. I've seen several threads along the lines of "Is reloading worth it", "what's reloading cost", etc, etc over the years, so I figured this would be a great tool for someone getting into it to figure out their upfront and long term costs. Or for that matter, anyone interested in how much they are saving...or not saving...by reloading. My quick take away is, with the increase in cost of components and the drastic drop in ammo prices, you have to reload A LOT to see any substantial savings. I love the process of reloading in general, but if I were getting into it today I'd have to think long and hard about it. I'd probably still do it, because for me it's not just the cost savings, but the freedom that it brings. Not to mention the ammo that's prefect for each and every firearm I own. And one of the biggest issues for me is you never know when the next "crunch" is gonna hit. I started reloading before the last Big Crunch hit, and one of the main reasons I did it was because I just had a feeling something was on the horizon and I wanted to make sure I had ammo when I wanted it. Not just when it was available. Anyway, I tried to updated to the spreadsheet to make it understandable to look it and figure out what the data was telling them, and to be able to change it to suite your specific needs. Obviously it's tailored to my calibers, bullets, primers, powders, etc, but you can change anything you want. It's not a perfect analysis, because there are just so many possible combinations it would take a 100 years and a 100 sheets to account everything. But I feel like it gives a good "rule of thumb" analysis of the cost of reloading. I use FMJ and JHP for almost all my pistol rounds. I found over the years that when you buy in bulk the fractions of a cent you save on lead coated, or plated just aren't worth it to me personally. I use middle of the road bullets for precision rifle work like Sierra or Nosler. And Bulk Horn 55gr FMJBT for AR stuff. I averaged out powder per round based on common charge weights for a given caliber. I think most things are self explanatory, but I also put a lot of notes to clarify what things I was using and what my line of though was. I'm sure I left some details out. If you have any questions, just ask. The first section is a cost per round break down for common combinations. Second section is cost per round break down of common equivalent factory loadings. Next section is the percentage savings (or lack there of) for reloading over factory ammo. Last section is a place for someone to put the cost of reloading equipment and then figure out how many rounds it will take to break even in terms of yers. I averaged the cost per round for this section based on just high/low average. Obviously the more expensive your factory ammo is, the more you are likely to save reloading. In this section you input the number of rounds you expect to shoot a month, and based on your overhead cost and cost per round it will tell you how long it will take to break even shooting that many rounds per month. Again, it's not perfect, so please I beg you don't remind me. But it will give you better than a rough estimate. I am working on a Mac so it was originally in Numbers, but I have exported it as a xls spreadsheet for the Windows users. There might be some "translation" issue between the two the formats. I have also loaded the Numbers version. If you have an issue, maybe try and open the Numbers version in Excel and let it do the translation to see if that helps. I appreciate all the help I have received over the years here, and I hope this helps someone else. Lastly my suggestion would be do download a copy and duplicate the downloaded copy to make changes too. That way if you mess something up you can always go back to the original and copy it again. 169592097_ReloadingCost-2020.numbers Reloading Cost-2020.xlsx
  3. I’m a little stumped and wondering if anyone could help me out. I bought some 147gr HST pulls and when I load them I’m getting a bulge in the middle of the case where the base of the bullet is. I’ve adjusted my dies every way and in every combination I can think of. This happens with all head stamps. Even with everything left the same I’ll get some that go into my case gauge fine while others are way off. Anyone got any ideas on how to fix this? Example:
  4. Hello, I am brand new to reloading and looking for some recommendations and and load data to use for 147gr FP Black Bullet International (BBI) and 147gr blue bullets both RN and FP. I have Ramshot Silhouette and Accurate #7 powders, losing mixed brass with CCI 500 primers. Intended for 9mm minor for USPSA. I called BBI and asked their recommendations and he said those powders would not get best results and recommend a shotgun powder. Just looking for a little guidance if anyone has good load recipe with what I have or a powder they would recommend for those bullets. Thanks!
  5. Hi everyone, I've been away for some time! So I'm using West Coast plated 180gr. RNFP in my .40 limited guns. One has a well-used Scheuman barrel, and the other a brand spankin' new Nowlin. One lot of these bullets (I had at least 3K) would tumble to the point that I couldn't reliably hit a 12" plate at 10 yards, and could very well throw a miss on a metric target at 15! The bullets that hit were obviously going through sideways. I did all the usual, checked for too much crimp, checked for not enough bell...no good. So I call West Coast, give them the lot#, and they say send them back, we'll replace them. They were very good about replacing 3K that I had left. I loaded the new bullets without changing a thing with the load or the press, and proceeded to go out and shoot a 1 3/4" group offhand at 25 yards! (Way better than usual) Thing is, West Coast will give me no explanation for why the other lot was so crappy, and not knowing is driving me nuts. Does anyone have an idea what may have caused the first lot to be so erratic??
  6. Well after owning my XL650 for a year I finally loaded 6 batches of 10 rounds each working up in powder grains to get a sense of the differences. Prior to this week I had never shot a reloaded pistol round (9mm). I've got to say I friggin' loved it. My first ten rounds were 3.6gr of Titegroup with 1.125ish OAL. Shooting a 124gr Hornady FMJ-RN out of my Glock 34 I use for USPSA CO. I worked up .1gr on each of the next 5 batches. I shot all through my chronograph and documented the fps of each round. But I have a question about process for working up loads and getting consistency with OAL... Like I mentioned I only worked up 10 rounds in a variety of powder grain amount. I have been reading on here (after the fact) and found some suggestions for consistent OAL such as making sure the shellplate isn't too wobbly and making sure each station of the shellplate has a case on it. Both make sense except how do I work up small, consistent batches that way? Am I thinking too small? Should my test batches be more rounds (like 100 or so)? Do I just put the beginning and end rounds aside and shoot them for practice? Or should I recycle the materials for later use? Would love to hear your best practices in this process. My OAL was all over the place not consistent at all. How consistent should it be? For example if my target is 1.125 what is an acceptable range? What is a preferred? I'm a little OCD when it comes to consistency but I wonder if I'm not being realistic. Hopefully longer runs with a full shellplate will help matters. I think my bell may be too large now as well now that I re-read the manual. I attached my data in case anyone wants to take a look. Just know that the OAL documented is approximate since it wandered... Thanks in advance! Load-Data-Record-Book.pdf
  7. I still see a lot of people wondering why they fail to meet PF at a match. If you just add a few extra power factor points, now you know what can happen. The bottom line is that velocity is random in nature and the BEST way to understand and manage it is to use statistics. You don’t need to have any special math skills. This post provides the simple steps to follow. For the why and more details, see Frontsight Magazine, Jan/Feb 2015 Edition, Pg. 70. The standard deviation (STD) measures the amount of variation (uncertainty) around the average velocity and it should always be used when reloading. The table below maps the chance of failing an official USPSA PF check to the variable Z. Use Z for reloading by simply multiplying the value of Z by your STD (measured using 8 rounds with your chronograph) and add the result to the required velocity to make major or minor PF for your bullet weight. The result is your desired load velocity. Values of Z are shown from 0 to 3 to illustrate the tradeoff between Z and the chance of failure. My guidance is to use values of Z in the 2 to 2.5 range. Note that if you use the STD (i.e., Z=1), which I’m sure some people do, the chance of failing PF is a whopping 44%. Z Chance of failing PF (per USPSA rules) 3.0 3% 2.5 5% 2.0 10% 1.5 21% 1.0 44% Assume a shooter’s standard deviation for a load with a 155 gain bullet is 15 ft/second (chronographed using 8 rounds). An average velocity of at least 1065 ft/sec is needed to make major power factor. To limit the risk of failure to no more than about 10%, use Z = 2.0 and simply add 30 ft/sec (Z*STD=2*15) to the required velocity to meet PF. Thus the desired load velocity would be 1065+30 =1095 ft/sec. It’s that easy! In our example above, if we “just add a few PF points” and loaded to say 168 PF, this is equivalent to Z=1.26 and the result is a 1 out of 3 or 33% chance of failure. If instead we use the measured extreme spread (which can typically run 60 fps or higher) and load to 1065+60 =1125 fps, it is equivalent to 4*STD or a 186 PF and we needlessly incur excessive recoil and higher cost. If you always load to say a PF=170 (1097 fps), your chance of passing is okay so long as your STD remains below 16 fps (1097-1065)/2. However, if your STD is actually 23 fps, Z drops from just above 2 down to 1.4 (i.e., 32/23) and your chance of failure more than doubles going from below 10% up to 26%. This is why you should measure and use the STD. Shoot with any comments or questions!
  8. Hey folks, Have something of a mystery here... I am sizing on my Mark7 press with a redding Ti-Carbide sizer die. It is leaving these bizarre marks on random pieces of brass and I have not been able to deduce why. I am not decapping on the sizer so the central decapping stem is not present on the die. Checked the interior body of the sizing sleeve and it looks clean and mark free. Ideas?
  9. Hello Folks, To start, I do reload and have for a couple years so I'm not a total newb, but not an expert by any means. This is a bit of a mixed discussion through a couple different questions. First: Trying to decide between staying in Limited and upgrading my gun or moving to Open. Currently shoot Limited with a Glock 34 Gen 3 but looking for a 2011 as an upgrade. I recently shot myself in the foot (not literally) and was able to shoot an Open gun in 9 major. Boy oh boy that was a mistake!! I had far too much fun doing so, but don't have the slightest clue on open guns in the way of reloading. My dilemma is whether or not to stick with Limited or jump to Open and expand my horizons. Reasons on why or why not to switch? Second: If I jump to Open, I've seen that coated bullets aren't super great because the comp vaporizes the coating and builds up in the ports. A friend recommended Montana Gold bullets specifically. I'm only familiar with the name, as it is renowned in the sport, but I don't have much knowledge on them. What makes them so great over any other brand? Please feel free to school me, as I'm always looking for more information on loading and gun knowledge! Thank you for your input and time! -Muddawg
  10. Up until today I’d been running Campro 147’s with Vihtavuori N320 through my non-optic ready Shadow 2. I discovered that the Optic Ready isn’t loving that combination quite as much, but it sure does love the 124’s. Making a switch in my reloading as soon as I’ve shot through the 147’s reloads.
  11. Some of my once fired brass for my .223 has scratches that are deep enough to feel with my fingernail, but they are tiny. Are these dangerous? or are they too small to cause any harm? i know dents are not too bad but i dont know what to consider for reload and not, because it is quite a few of them. but they have only been fired once. Thank for any advise.
  12. Just wanted to share the DIY strong mount I came up with for my rock chucker. Used a boat seat pedestal made by Attwood, purchased at Walmart for $10~ I did have to put a piece of wood between the press and pedestal to elevate the press high enough so the link assembly would clear the bench. I clamped the wood to the pedestal using C clamps and drilled the mounting holes through the wood and pedestal at the same time. This helped keep the drill bit from walking. This method possibly could work for a dillon press too if you got the 13" high pedestal and the mounting surface was wide enough. I used the 7" pedestal. For $20 it's a great way to get the press on and off the bench quickly when working with limited space.
  13. As our 1050s aged we noticed it was harder and harder to get consistent primer seating depth. We took a cue from out Ammoload and Camdex machines and developed a primer hold down for the 1050. This is very similar to the hold down in the swaging station on the 1050. It will accommodate 380, 9mm, 40 and 45. Installation and adjustment is very simple. Please see the video below for instruction. Can be used in the RL 1050 as well with modification to the diameter of the die. It will need to be turned down about .020" to work in the RL1050. Pricing is $17.50 shipped and can be purchased from our website. Click to purchase from our website.
  14. How tidy do you keep your station and bench? I’m curious about dust, spilled powder, debris, etc. Say on scale of 1-10 with basic mile markers below. 10- Immaculate- Intel could make chips at my bench. 7.5 Very clean. Frequently dust and always collect spilled powder even if it’s a single granule. 5 Moderate. Clean every few sessions or if dust / powder accumulates. 2.5 As- needed to prevent major accumulation...don’t feel the need very often. 0- Meh. Time is for shooting, not housekeeping. I’m in my garage and also do wood work there so dust is an issue more than spills. Curious what you guys do...
  15. I just reloaded about 500 rounds of 9mm using Vihtavuori N340 (4.0gr) with 147gr Campro RNFP bullets and CCI Small Pistol Primers and once fired range brass (that had been fired through my CZ Shadow 2. I hadn’t had a chance to fire any of the rounds apart from a few rounds for putting them through the chronograph. Yesterday I was shooting my brand new CZ P-09 using those rounds and was getting a lot of double feeds (some of that is user error, I’m used to shooting a much heavier Shadow 2 and part of it could be breaking in the new gun), I experienced a few misfires at the same time, but was more focused on the double feeds. Today, no issue with double feeds, but the misfires seemed to be continual. At least 2 per mag (mag holds 10) and it was happening in both the Shadow 2 and the P-09. I have not experienced any problems with VV N320 which I am loading for my competition ammo also using 147gr Campro Bullets. I ran at least 50 rounds of Winchester 231 with 124gr Hornady bullets through the P-09 without any problems today as well. I am absolutely certain that each of the cases were loaded with the right measured amount of ammo because my process for reloading is as follows: brass is washed, dried, tumbled, deprimed, washed, dried and tumbled again. Then it is primed and loaded with powder. I keep a close eye on the amount going in and weigh every round before storage. I have narrowed it down to either a bad batch of primers, or the powder, but if it was the powder, then every cartridge would be misfiring. Unfortunately because I was mass producing, all the ammo with primers from different boxes have been mixed together. When I get a misfire I am racking the slide and ejecting it, but I wonder if I should be doing this in case it’s a “Hang Fire” situation? I am going to be pulling the dud bullets and see what’s going on inside. Any thoughts on this and is it unusual to get that many dud rounds or what might be the cause? Thanks
  16. Hey folks! New to pistol reloading and wanting to get the process down in my head before the last of my equipment arrives. Coming from precision rifle so this isn't all foreign to me, there just seem to be added considerations. It seems like for coated bullets, like the Bayou 135s I ordered, that case mouth expansion is critical so as not to swage the coating to expose any lead. So, the first question is how much expansion are you looking for when loading coated vs when loading jacketed. On the crimp, similarly, is there a difference in the amount of crimp desired vs when loading metal jacketed? Are you worried about deburring the case mouth at all? I'll be loading on one of the Mk7 evolutions that should be coming in shortly. Pushing the 135s with n320 and win primers. Looking forward to the journey! As far as dies, got the redding micro taper, comp seater, and carbide sizer.
  17. I recently found Precision bullets and they are by far the cheapest I have found. Has anyone used them yet? I'd be running them in a glock 34 with a kkm match barrel. Thank you
  18. Hey guys. Search came up with nothing. So if I missed it and am cloning a previous post please let me know i have a mpx carbine and have about 2000 124gn eggleston projectiles. Anyone have any experience with them through a pcc? Any load data with numbers would b sweet. Wanting to use these bullets but afraid to in open so figure try through the rifle. Thanks for any help In advance. Happy turkey day!
  19. I've spent many hours reading all the powder vs temperature threads on here and many on some other sites. Some good info, but I'd like to go a little further. I think from my reading the least sensitive powders are nailed down fairly well, what I lack is data on the ones that are more sensitive. I'm going to do a project for a class at my university on this, so I can use some help in figuring out the powders that are least, average, and most sensitive to temperature changes. I'd like to know this for both rifle and pistol powder. I'm going to do pistol for the project, I'll probably do rifle later this year or early next year (since my only .223 is still waiting for a stock and glass). While it would be interesting to test a bunch of calibers I'm sticking with 9mm for pistol and .223 for rifle for now. I intend to test a load that just makes 125 PF, and one that is a bit hotter around 145-150, to see if there's any correlation between air space in the case and output. Testing will be done over a chronograph, with ammunition that has been held for a long period of time at specific temperatures. So far what I have from here and elsewhere: Pistol: Vihtavuori N3xx and 3Nxx are the least sensitive to temp changes, and Hodgdon Titegroup seems to be average. Some powders are reverse sensitive, e.g. more pressure at lower temps. Rifle: Hodgdon H322 and Varget are the least sensitive. Rifles also seem to more sensitive than pistols, seems logical to me because the charge in a rifle is much heavier, usually around 5 times or more than a pistol charge. What are your experiences?
  20. Does any one know where I can find a list of which die sets (serial numbers) share dies, asking about Dillon specifically. I'm going to start loading for my 2011 38sc. And I was wondering if all 3 dies are different or just one or 2. I plan on getting a full conversion from 9-38sc with individual powder measures. So trying to save time by just swapping a die or 2 out. Thanks all.
  21. I'm thinking I'd like to try a powder baffle to help improve the consistency of my Dillon 650 over the course of a reloading session. Any thoughts on the Uniquetek baffle vs the Prairie Dog Perfect Powder Baffle? Uniquetek Precision Powder Baffle: Prairie Dog Perfect Powder Baffle:
  22. So my wife said she was fine with me reloading. I’m about half way through studying how to set up. Normally would dig in and take months researching myself but I need to get this thing bought before she hears what reloading entails or what it costs! -Shoot limited but may go to open one day -So 9, 40 are primary objectives. Maybe 45 and 223 as well. -I prefer to “buy once cry once” -Reloading in garage -Shoot two matches a month and practice. So probably on lower side of round count for this site. Target System and expected costs XL 650- $580 Die set 9mm- $60 Strong mount- $45 Scale- $100 digital or lever? Handbook- $25 Calipers- $30 Flip tray- $30 Case loader - $580 with one extra cal. Worth it? Buy at Double Alpha? Media tumbler- $50 recommendations? Inputs Bullets Primers Brass Powder Case lube Thoughts on where to buy the system and components? Am I missing anything? Making a common pitfall? Are there Mega Black Friday sales worth waiting for? Thanks!
  23. Would you rather set up your bench in a large uninsulated detached garage or small basement closet? Relevant context: -I live in the mid Atlantic so temps range from 0 - 100. However, I’m hearty...not too sensitive to hot and cold. -Basement area permits bench of only 40 inches wide by 30 inches deep. -Newby 650 reloader. -Not a huge volume shooter. Reloading mostly for PF and reliability. -I have children who crawl so I’m a little paranoid about lead safety. Buying bullets that are plated or coated. Would tumble outside in any event. -Not a ton of air circulation in basement. -Good neighborhood, so theft from garage isn’t much of a concern. -Anti-Gun neighborhood, so I’d feel some anxiety if kids are over to play or someone visits with garage door up. Opsec in basement would be much stronger. I’ve changed my mind a few times and am curious what you guys think from years of accumulated wisdom!
  24. I have been loading with titegroup and love it because of the price I shoot alot for uspsa. I am running Gallent 125's and it smokes alot. I'm wanting to know if switching to n320 is worth the additional cost vs titegroup. I've heard titegroup and coated bullets just smoke alot and that's the name of the game. I'd switch if it really does shoot cleaner and smoke less.
  25. I'll be running them in my stock 3. Winchesters run with my old load for my 34 but saw somewhere online that the Federals match are in stock. Is the extra 29$ per 5k is worth it?
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