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fred fague

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Everything posted by fred fague

  1. Buy a strong magnet and check for brass coated steel cases. Most are S&B, they look like real brass but are steel. S&B makes brass and brass coated steel. The steel cases are harder to seat the primers. AMMOLOAD cases have a smaller case volume. Look inside and you will see a rim about 1/4 of the way up, which reduces the case volume. When loaded to major the primers show excessive pressure. They are OK to load to minor.
  2. Spray the mag with guide coat or primer to determine where they are rubbing.
  3. A vengeful, ugly Gus will be back.
  4. Tim, I use MTG CMJ 124. OAL is 1.160 to 1.163. STI mags .355 in front .360 at rear. Stainless steel floating spacers, Grams 9x19 followers, 13 coil springs in 170 with 3mm base pads, 140 13 coil springs with 7mm base pads. The 170s hold 28 and the 140s I only load 22, the 140 can hold more but are hard on springs. I had feeding problems with MTG JHP. STI mags' feed lips are easy to adjust and tune. I have some old SV mags, which run with no problems. I had problems trying to adjust the feed lips on SV mags, they are like spring steel. The SV mags also had drop free problems and it took about three hours of sanding and fitting on each mag to get them to drop free. If you look inside the frame you will see a ledge, the top side of the SV mags hit on the corners of the ledge. If you bevel the edges where the mags hit they will drop free without working on them. The STI mags are narrower near the top and do not rub against the ledge.
  5. Call or e mail Cannon. Also phone a lock smith, they might be helpful.
  6. Google Albany Rifle and Pistol Club. The site has address and map. It is very easy to find and drive to.
  7. On long runs I engage the safety. If you fall at least the pistol will be on safe.
  8. I use Krunch Products Pistol Pro Mag Slick magazine treatment or Tri-Flow dry lubricant with teflon on steel mags. I spray it on the inside and outside. Both are dry lubes and do not collect dirt. The Krunch Product I bought from Brownells and the Tri-Flow from Shucks Auto Parts. I use Armor All on the inside of Glock mag wells and nothing on the mags. I tried Armor All on the mags and thought it made them too slippery. You could try it on the mags!
  9. Using different bullets will change your zero. Such as MTG CMJ and JHP have different zeros as well as Zero JHP.
  10. I tried all the usual solutions of taking apart, cleaning, oil on the ram, etc. Nothing cured the problem. When I loosened the lock nuts everything freed up. I even bought a special grease gun with a needle attachment and lubed until grease exited out around the end of the pins, ram was still stiff to move. Again loosening the lock nuts on my 650 solved my problem.
  11. My 650 was binding on the up and down stroke. I loosened the Nylock nuts on the ends of the Link Arm Pins. Problem went away!
  12. Look in Matt Burkett's Practical Shooting Manual it shows the Aimpoint mounted with the rear of the tube about even with the rear of the slide. Saul Kirsch is shown with his Aimoint mounted about the same distance. I use a Aimpont Comp C with the rear of the tube about even with the rear of the slide. I like it there because it improves the balance and it seems to be easier and faster to find the dot.
  13. The Hornady 4th Edition shows 124 LRN COL 1.090.
  14. I read Lone Survivor twice about a year ago. I loaned it to my son and bought another and loaned it to my son in law, he kept it and bought me a hard cover edition. It is sad to read about the deaths of his team mates and those trying to rescue him. I recommended Lone Survivor to co-workers and others. I see those same poeple later and they tell me they read the book and passed it on to friends. The looks on thier faces when decribing it is very rewarding. I will continue tell others they should to read it. Lone Survivor is worth reading over and over, it is also very inspiring. To read about his parents and how many came to support them is beautiful.
  15. +1 with Sarge. Inspecting brass is the most important part of the process. Check for dirt inside, bad rims, cracks, A Merc cases are junk to stay away from because they will stick in the barrel chamber. This forum contains the best info on reloading and Dillon presses. I have used a SDB, 550, 650, and a friends 1050. I like the 650 best and load 9mm and .45. I have one 650 setup for 9mm and the other for .45. Try to find someone with a 650 to test. The roller handle and strong mount are a must for me. Look at buying a full length sizer die for 9mm and .40. Buy case gages for each caliber and case gage every loaded round inspecting each round for cracks, high primer, etc. Good Luck!!
  16. Polishing compounds contain silica and are not friendly to your lungs. I suggest wearing a good filter mask.
  17. I use a 650, load 9major, and take hand loading very seriusly and have thus created specific rules for myself; 1. Use the powder check station. 2. Visually check the powder charge each time. 3. Lumination of the entire shell plate area. 4. No distractions, Radio, TV, beverages, etc. 5. Load 200rds take a break. 6. Case gage every round. 7. Powder used is the only powder stored near the press, and the powder type written on the resivor. All other powder types are stored in another area. 8. If I have any doubt about a loaded round I will take it apart. 9. Measure the OAL randomly. 10. Weigh the powder charge randomly and at the beginning of each loading session. 11. Prior to begining a loading session check the locking nuts of each die. 12. I do not top off the powder with powder from a different lot.
  18. They are one piece. Eliminates the problems of loose comps and bullets hitting baffles.
  19. Who's trigger insert? The pictures show a slight curve near the top, most inserts I've seen are curved or flat. I can think of no words to describe your pistol, other than I am very jealous. Thanks for posting the pictures, Fred
  20. Don't make excuses, your friends don't give a dam, and your enemies will never believe you.

  21. Measure the front and rear of the feed lips. The front measurement should be at the most .005 wider than the rear. If the front lips are narrower than the rear lips, the rounds will not feed as well.
  22. Rory you are right. One washer on top of shell plate then the bearing on top of the washer, and then the second washer on top of the bearing. The center bolt keeps everything in position. I load 9major with powder near the top of the case. Before installing the bearing I had some spillage of powder. Now I have minimal spillage.
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