Jeff686

Maybe everyone but me already knows this, but I don't. Are the Gold Team models stainless or chromed? I've got some holster wear on mine, and I'd be surprised if that would happen to a chromed finnish.

Ha! I disagree. $175 is cheap. That's probably the first, and lowest, fine possible (by speed. If that includes the 'court fees' and other junk, that's really cheap!!

Well, I'm no expert on slide racker ergonomics, but I do have a few ideas. The factory racker has to go on the wrong side or it takes skin off your thumb, and I don't really like that. I think the sidewinders are a bit too large and look like a motorcycle handle bar. I know that larger is easier to find and grab, but it's also easier to catch on things. I guess if you're a big aero-wings fan, the slide racker is small. Key concepts: reversable drop in design - no fitting required low profile, minimalist design, just enough to get your index finger hooked onto good thumb clearance for those with big fingers, with a sharp high turn or twist to stay away from the danger zone. aluminum? annodized in different colors? ball plunger built into racker (not slide). yea, I know, when pigs fly... Actually, why aluminum or steel? Why not delrin? Sell 'em in 5 packs for $10

Henning, Eric has some new slide rackers for sale on his web page. They look similar to sidewinders. I'd have bought one, but my gunsmith is already fitting a sidewinder for me. Do you have any plans to carry them?

Brian, The friction/roller method that most inkjet printers use to pick and advance paper though the mechanism is very prone to peeling off labels. The tighter the turn, the worse the problem. For example, the front loading trays have to bend the paper in a 180deg paper path to print, and are more likely to loosen the edge of a label that can catch on the printhead. Top feed printers only bend the paper at about 70 degrees, but also in the more friendly direction. They are not perfect, but better than the front loading kind. Inkjet printers with scanning heads (move back and forth) make multiple passes over the same portion of the paper, attempting to randomize which nozzles fire the ink to hide systematic defects. This means that there are multple chances for the printhead to catch a label. If one starts to lift, it is likely the next pass of the printhead will make it worse until it is finally peeled into the mechanism. Don't forget that ink smears and is not waterfast. Some are better than others. Usually inks with good waterfastness tend to smudge or smear when you handle them. Those that don't smear are very easily washed away. If you cover your labels with shipping tape or plastic, this won't be a problem. A $3 ink cartridge is probably refilled, and is likely the worst performing ink, with very few qualities other than low cost. Have you considered a dedicated label printer? Maybe a Dymo or Brother label printer? They are really slick because they are designed to print labels, and generally don't chew them up like a sheet feeding printer. Plus, you can print as many or few as necessary without trying to feed partially used sheets of avery labels. Just my 2cents... Jeff P.S. If you haven't guessed, I design printers for a living.

26 db ?? That's not high enough. I need something to that will even block out my wife!

I don't have my CR in front of me to compare to the pictures, but I can't spot the modification you are suggesting. Did you remove some material from the latch (under where the lock moves)? Could you give me a quick description to go with the pictures? I'm sure once you tell me, I'll get it... Thanks!

I was out at the range yesterday trying out my new CR Speed WSM II and my Tanfoglio Gold Team. I had some problems and am looking for advice. My setup: Safariland 028/029 belts CR Speed WSM II Velcro INSIDE the holster loop, where it grabs the outer belt. Mounted just forward of my hip bone, over the little 'change pocket' in my levi jeans. (same spot as my Safariland 007 for limted) CR Speed Adjustments: I feel very good about the gun's position in the holster and the adjustment of the trigger/swtich/lock. It goes in and out easily, but is secure and has very little play when holstered. I don't think my problem is with the retention system. Problem: During casual draws, the pistol comes out easily. However, during my normal draw (under the buzzer), the holster lifts/rotates to the side (muzzle of gun away from leg, grip into gut), and the gun does not come out. Obviously, my draw is applying a force vector with more of a propensity to rotate the holster than to overcome the latch. I am 100% sure the 'lock' is disengauged, so don't blame that. If I take the time to pull 'straight' everything works fine. I don't feel my draw is excessivly crooked. I've successfully used my Safariland 007 for years. Possible solutions: 1. Hi-Torque belt. Is a hi-torque belt designed to prevent this from happening? It seems like fixing the symptom, not the root problem. I have a Safariland 4350 on oder (for my limited setup). Might it be any better than the 028? Should I just get a CR belt? 2. Move the holster. I did not play around with changing the holster position. I guess I have 3 adjustments (cant, twist, and belt position). I see a lot of open shooters with the holster on the front of the hip, closer the crotch, with a good bit of cant. Is this the preffered position? Could moving the holster position improve the straightness of my natural draw? 3. Change my draw. I can certainly practice a more 'straight' draw, with the holster in the current position. It feels a little unnatural. I can probably reprogram myself. What other options are there? Which of these is most likely the best solution?

I'm a pretty good public speaker, mostly because I use props and don't 'read the slides' to the audience. Maybe I can host the show. (not) Once, I gave a presentation about a new product, but I didn't agree with the data analysis and conclusions. I offered a prize to the first person to guess the 'theme' of the presentation. During the talk, I constructed a fog machine from a hot plate, pot of H2O, and some dry ice. I then proceeded to waft the fog around the room with a ladies compact. Smoke and Mirrors! Get it? I never noticed that about Larry looking to the side. Now it's going to haunt me forever. Thanks a lot!! With so many good technical and informational shows on Discovery, History, and Military Channel, I would think the viewers could handle and would welcome more detailed content from Wednesday Night TV.

Dear Mr. Keefe, I am active in the shooting sports, a member of the NRA and USPSA, and a viewer of American Rifle TV. Since the main purpose of this letter is to provide feedback on American Rifle TV, let me begin by thanking you for your hard work and dedication to producing professional, high quality episodes. Although sometimes excessively used, the flashy graphics, theme music, and special effects do give the show a nice look and feel. However, I believe there are several improvements that could be made that would significantly increase my enjoyment of the show. My comments are intended for the series as a whole, but I will take specific examples from the January 30th episode 5. 1. Scripts: I tire of the excessively flowery and verbose scripts. It seems that there is an attempt to use impressive (yet vague and meaningless) adjectives and adverbs to add fluff to the commentary. It is beginning to sound more like a romance novel than a gun show. At times, it approaches hyperbole. An example of this was the segment on the Winchester Model 70. I felt like the commentator wanted me to snuggle with the rifle, not shoot it. Additionally, I understood the meaning and message of the alliteration “Rifleman’s Rifle” the first time. I did not need to hear it as many times as I did. 2. Details: I think the biggest shortcoming of many of the segments is the lack of details. Gun owners are, by nature, technically minded people. We appreciate an elegant technical design and understand how form and function interact. Give us more details and explain more about specific parts and features. An example of this was the new trigger on the Model 70. A few minor comments were made about the ‘lever system’ improving the performance of the trigger. I was extremely disappointed when you omitted an explanation and demonstration using the moving model/poster seen on the wall. An additional 30 – 60 seconds of technical explanation would have turned that segment from ordinary to exceptional. 3. Midway Gun Smith: Obviously, Midway USA is a big supporter of the show. Many thanks to them. Sometimes it is not clear if I am watching an advertisement or a show segment, therefore I do not know if the Midway USA Gun Smith footage is technically part of the show. If not, it should be! Increase the length! I would love a recurring segment that shows gun smith techniques and tools. I would not undertake many gunsmith tasks myself, but I really enjoy knowing how they are done. 4. Instructional and Informational: I would enjoy a recurring segment that includes instructional and informational content. Please teach me something. A range of topics could cover things like shooting techniques, equipment selection, reloading, ammunition selection, ballistics, physiology and human factors, range etiquette, and safety. Specific examples could be: barrel twist vs. bullet weight, how to use a rifle sling, cross-eye dominance, shooting positions, moly vs. plated vs. jacketed bullets, point blank range, using a chronograph, wood vs. synthetic stocks. Once again, thank you for your hard work and dedication to the NRA and American Rifleman. I hope you find my feedback constructive. I look forward to future episodes. Sincerely, Jeff686

What's the downside of just baggin that baby between stages? At our local matches, many people bag them after every stage. I like to not have to worry about my gun while I work on the stage (taping/scoring/setting).

Thanks Kent! PM sent. Now I don't have to fuss with shipping, hotels, cable locks, and worries about lost or stolen firearms.

http://www.atf.treas.gov/firearms/faq/faq2.htm#b10 It is against USPS rules however. Other shipping companies have their own rules you have to follow. Here is an overview of some different shipping options. http://www.thegunzone.com/ship-guns.html Thank you for the reply and link. It sounds like a real pain in the butt. My two options appear to be: FedEx: Have my FFL ship it to me at my destination. UPS: Make some sort of letter stating that it is legal for me to ship it, and get it 'on file' with UPS (WTF?). Then ship it to myself. Shouldn't there be an easier way????

I am going overseas on business. On my return to the USA, I am going straight to Florida to begin a vacation. I want to shoot in a couple of local matches while I am there. I CAN NOT take my pistol with me overseas (too complicated and hard to explain to my traveling companions). Is there any way I can ship the pistol? My parents live in Florida. It is not a transfer, just travel. Am I allowed to ship it to myself? How? Can I go through an FFL without paying a transfer fee and background check? What are my options, if any? Or, does anyone shoot at Central Florida Rifle & Pistol Club or St. Augustine Practical Shooting Association, and would be willing to loan me a single stack 1911 in 45ACP. I can ship EVERTHING else.

I lost my instructions. Anyone care to scan them and post them for me??? Please???? Oh, don't breathe on it either. A clear plastic box to cover it might be useful in reducing thrashing from air currents. I was questioning the results from mine, so I checked it with a Lee balance scale. They matched exactly. It ends up the powder I was using was binding the powder bar up a little, causing intermittent short stroking and inconsistent drops of powder.

There may be an untapped market here. Most everyone thinks 'go to the nats' or 'go to big matches', do well, and maybe find a sponsor. There's more to USPSA than the top dogs!!! How about putting someone other than a GM on the cover of Front Sight? Anyway, what I mean is there could be a 'local' aspect to sponsorship that is untapped. Local businesses for local audiences. Local gunsmith? Local Tire Shop? Local Sporting Goods Store? Example: Sportsmans Warehouse used to give their employees NICE coupons to pass around at the local shooting events. They might give you a discount in exchange for wearing their hat or shirt. I could image that if you were a fair shooter, but also were well spoken, friendly, and supportive, you might be worthy of sponsors. Where I live, you can attend 4-5 matches a month, at four different clubs. There are lots of opportunities to be seen, and to let people know that 'Bob's Wiener Shack' is helping support the sport. Volunteer for the Jr. Program, and help with setup/teardown at the matches. Represent your sponsor in a good light. Personally, I'd make it a point to patronize any business that was supporting the sport! "Hungry? Lets get a dog at Bob's, he is a good guy!" I say 'Go for it!'. Have a good value proposition. Maybe you'll get discount powder and bullets, maybe more!

$9.95 each. OUCH. I'd buy a pack of Wilson Combat 1911 buffers (6 for $5.95), then trim them to fit!!

I'm guilty of making the same mistake I was complaining about... being vague. Sorry. Where is the match, not the application. Somewhere in California? Looks like Piru California........the match release covers that range anyway. AGREEMENT AND RELEASE OF LIABILITY I HEREBY ACKNOWLEDGE that I have voluntarily applied to participate in shooting activities for THE STEEL CHALLENGE, LLC pistol tournament, to be operated solely by THE STEEL CHALLENGE, LLC, International Shootists Institute, LLC, (ISI) Ranges located on the Wes Thompson, Inc. property in Piru, California. Thank you. I appreciate it. Shouldn't that be placed in a little more obvious location? Some people are new, and don't know where it is...

I'm guilty of making the same mistake I was complaining about... being vague. Sorry. Where is the match, not the application. Somewhere in California?

Where? I hate when people assume that just because they know, that everyone does. The web page doesn't even say!!!

You can get SP2??? The Holy Grail. You are a God sir! I have a benevolent benefactor.

I just wanted everyone to know that I've worked out my problems: nick in top of comp Gunsmith did a 'flat top' on the comp, then bead blasted it. It looks really cool. I'll post pictures when available. Safety difficult to operate Gunsmith noticed the hammer moved when the safety moved. He fitted the safety better, and now it has an appropriate amount of on/off force (feels the same with the hammer cocked and at rest). Ignition Problems (with WSR and CCI-Pistol Found that with too little overtravel, the hammer can hang up and loose some energy. Holding the trigger back and working the hammer revealed some significant interference. I let out a little more overtravel and the hang up dissapeared. Henning found this was a problem for a lot of people, so I'm sure this was my problem too (haven't tested it yet). Takeup and overtravel I found the adjustment screws, and set them for my preference. As stated above, I had to readjust (lengthen) the overtravel to fix the ignition problems that I induced. Factory slide racker position (too low or on wrong side) I tried to 'bend' the factory slide racker (as shown above) but ended up shearing it in half (oops, need more heat). My gunsmith had a sidewinder and we 'simulated' it's installation. Good to go! Got one on order, and am going to have a ball-detent job done. Load Development I'm going to run 10.1gr of SP2 with 121gr Montana Gold at 170pf for at least a 1000round. I've got a cheap local source for Ranier Plated, and ran a bunch of 124gr RN without trouble. I'll do an accuracy test, and switch to those if they shoot OK. I was going to shoot it in it's first match tomorrow, but am going skiing with the family instead. Hey! Idea! IPSC on skis!!

What bullet/powder/load are you using?

Jeff, try bumping up the charge weight and get the PF around +-170. That's when you'll get the most out of your comp. Whether it gets louder or not won't matter as you'll see how flat it shoots when you're making major. I ran it up to 10gr of SP2. That gave me about 168pf. It's just that the bark is loud. I really did start flinching (at the noise, not during the trigger pull). It doesn't matter how flat it shoots if I can't keep my eyes open!! I'll juice it up a little more and try it again. Maybe I'll get used to it.

I just tested some SP2 at lunchtime. Wow, that stuff really barks compared to the 7625. I can tell it works the comp better, but I think I started flinching!! Shooting 158pf of SP2 was more uncomfortable than 173pf of 7625. What do you guys do, wear plugs and muffs? Is that common for other powders of similar speed? I was going to try some Longshot or 3N37(8). Maybe I'll stick with the 7625 while I get used to Open Division. Edit: I was using 124gr bullets. Would the 7625 work the comp better with a lighter bullet?