old 180

OK, I'll start with the follower polishing (i've already beveled the edges and polished there) and try some diffent hulls

I've been having a difficult time loading my 1100. It has a factory 1100 cometition master tube extension and a stainless steel follower. At first I thought it was my reloads, but I've also had problems with factory shells. I can't say that it happens at the same round being loaded either. It can be the first or anyone in between to the last. When the problem occurs it is when the rim of the shell is going into the magazine. If I get it pushed though the magazine entrance (some force is necessary) it might not return back to the feed latch stop. I was wondering if anyone has had to give the entrance to the magazine tube a little polishing before or if there is some other remedy others might have come across?

Thanks All, I can proceed with confidence.

After the first three targets are engaged in the stage 3 (string 1 and 2) of the classifier with my ESR I am empty. The rules say to perform a a tactical reload but I am totally empty with nothing in the chamber. Just so I am doing it the same way as others are with the wheel gun, do I perform an Emergenct Reload or store the empties and then reload. It doesn't matter to me either way but I would like to do this the same way other are doing it to be consistent.

That sounds like the same results I had with the Winchester LP. I have only ever tried Winchester and Federal.

Has anyone found a primer that will work like a Federal LP in a model 625. I am having difficulty finding Federal LP primers and I couldn't get the Winchester LP primers to consistantly perform.

I will be using a hand chamfer tool from Brownells. So I don't want to chamfer a 686 cylinder but it is OK to use it on a 625 and only break the edge, no deeper.

Thanks Benny, When you say light does that mean anything less than a bull barrel or go with the lightest profile available, like a standard profile? 20" with a compensator attached sounds like a good length that is manageable in port shooting conditions.

Building a tactical 3-gun AR15 and I would like to get so input on a critical part before purchase. I'm seeking info on the barrel options for the AR15 like bull vs contoured and which contours. A good barrel length, is it better to keep the rifle gas port length or go with a carbine length? Does it matter if the barrel is button or cut rifling or how many groves it has? Is SS better than CM? I'm figuring a 1:9 or 1:8 twist for 69 gr Sierras and I'm leaning towards the Bennie Cooley brake. This is a big request so any input on any part of this will be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone know what an approprate amount of material can removed when a 45 degree chamfer is applied to the revolver cylinder?