Irishlad

Do you have the series 80 FP block parts in the gun? If so, you may also want to check the "timing" of those parts. I had a similar problem in my gun, not Para, where I would get intermittent light strikes. Basically the FP plunger wasn't always being raised enough to allow the FP it's full force forward, i.e. less striking power. Oddly, it didn't happen often enough for me, a non-gunsmith, to think of any thing mechanical...I blamed the primers, reloading, etc, etc.

It's not an option for a lot of people. Remember, the high end guns are very durable, so are Browning and Beretta by the way, so a "lot" of people shooting them bought them at much cheaper prices...many are bought used. You can buy certain high end shotguns used in the $3,000-$6500 range, and they look almost the same as new ones in the $8500-$10,000 range. Still, a lot of money. But, if you really want one, they can be "had" if you look around long enough and "stretch" a bit. I'm not "promoting" that idea, meaning are they "worth it", simply there are cheaper ways to get there if you wish.

I'm pretty "heavy" on the spray. I might get 2-3,000 rounds on a can.

I'll be "bold" and say loading ACP on a SDB with One-shot, is 50% less effort IMHO. It's expensive, but I wouldn't load without it.

I "googled" your shotgun, so forget the barrel. I was remembering shooting some clay targets with an 1100 deer gun...HA! Not knowing the "typical" clay target presentations you see, I'll assume they are fairly close and not particulary fast? If that's correct, I'd practice on similiar shots on a skeet field using what you have. I'd keep the barrel below the bird flight, swing through from slightly behind and "blot" out the target and fire...using the swing speed as your lead, not trying to gauge barrel/bird relationship in a sustained lead method...since your vision is obstructed by large sights and side shields. Sorry, not much help as I haven't shot moving targets with those type of sights. No doubt someone on this board uses those and can give you a helpful answer. I'll shutup now.

To be honest, I think you answered your own question with the difference in scores between the two barrels. The 18.5" barrel on long sporting clays targets is like using a J frame on 25 yard pistol targets. You can do it, but your really making more difficult on yourself. And, rifle sights on moving clay targets is tough because your focusing on the gun(sights), instead of the target. I'll bet "big money" as you tried to align the sights to the clay target, that you slowed down(natural) and stopped when you pressed the trigger...also natural. I'd buy a barrel for clay shooting and hit 80% instead of 24%.

I haven't "seen" much of a difference in 200 SWC 45 with plated. Meaning keeping them in the black(5") at 25 yards, but the lead do seem to group a bit tighter. A "bit" could be an inch...which is a "football" field difference to some! Might give Precision bullets a try, if "any" coating will do depending on why you want it coated.

If I measured correctly, my primer ram is also .210 give or take a "thousands". Winchester primers are .210 and primer pockets I've measured are @ .208. I don't have any problems with high primers and I don't use a strong mount. Dillon will solve it for you, but I'd check the simple things. Make sure the handle has complete movement, i.e not cracked, hitting something that doesn't give the full upstroke. It seems the primer ram extends beyond the opening at least the height of a primer. Make sure that primer assembly is on properly. The ram is held in with a hex and it must be seated and tightened down.

I have a GC and don't view it as as any better or worse than any other "production" Colt. But, mine is old. What is "different" is they have a wide trigger and for the money, it's the cheapest Colt to have an adjustable sight. The stainless has the Bo-mar and the blued has the flat top slide with the smaller "Ellison" type sight.

At 200 rounds a week or less, you are in the "lightweight" category like me. I use a SDB which easily loads 4-500 rounds per hour which means you have to load 30 minutes a week...for example. It comes with dies and you bolt onto a bench and begin the reloading process, more or less. Buy a balance beam measure, flip tray, One-shot lube(must have with SDB IMO), case cleaner and separator. For many years I use a $3.00 sliding pocket caliber because I "gauged" the reloads to new ammo. Just "marked" the caliber and loaded to that measure...stone age...but! Later I bought a digital. Don't "borrow" money, so to speak, to try and save on on big bulk buys. Buy 1,000 pieces of brass for now, 1000 bullets, 4 lbs powder and you probably need to buy the 5,000 primers because of shipping, etc. Order as needed or as money "comes in". I don't consider reloading components as "start-up" costs really, because that takes the place of new ammo you would have bought. You "pay off" the press and accessories because you don't need them if you buy new ammo. If I was buying new today, I'd take a real hard look at the 550 also.

A good handle for the SDB would be similiar to the MEC, a longer more cylinder shape. With a center handle, I use two hands to complete the down and upstroke. Seems natural to me, but that could be simply due to habit of loading many shotshells with a center handle.

The 12 gauge will do everything the 20 will do...only better! Better patterns with the same shot charge, less recoil will the added weight, better selection of shells, etc. It really just boils down to what the "kids" can physically handle swinging and holding the gun. They spend a lot more "time" than a "veteran" lifting, swinging, adjusting, dry firing the shotgun.

I've seen that service advertised from $30-$50. Cheaper if you have choke tubes installed at the same time.

Overall, I'd probably go with a Remington 1100, Beretta is good too, in 20 gauge. I wouldn't be "afraid" to look at good, used ones either. They weigh about a pound less than the 12 gauge and you can buy, or cut down stocks, to fit if needed. You can buy "reduced" recoil loads, around 1100-1150 fps or standard, 1200 fps in 7/8 oz. If you are only going to shoot as a "club", then maybe the club can buy a couple of shotguns to start because not everyone in the skeet squad needs their own gun...just hand it off to the next shooter. Plus, when the young ones are learning, it's better to have one gun "waving around" rather than five.

The NRA does give grants to clubs like the 4-H and others. Actually a fair amount of money from what I read. I'd go to their website and read up on it. I've never done it so i can't give any "real" advice other than I assume a lot more grants are turned down than approved. So, I would talk to someone at the NRA about their requirements, procedures, etc. Know anyone that does grant writing?

" If you want a S&W, look for a later model Koenig with the internal extractor." That's interesting. I didn't know Smith was coming out with an internal extractor...good news. Maybe it doesn't have their FP safety either? With no experience with the Power extractor, I still think it would be WISE if Para, at least, offered the option of the "regular" internal extractor. Options are good!!

Ha, scopes! That would be the "end".

In retrospect, I'd like to "slap" myself for suggesting the little skeeters. Check with Cole distributing for Beretta, they have a good "handle" of available options. Even some two barrel sets if you want to trade in a gun.

" The most appealing aspect was, when done properly (as Steve Middleditch would say), is that your mind is completely and fully occupied with looking at the target. There's not even any sights to align or be aware of. At that point, all the technique and technical aspects take a back seat to focused awareness. And I know many things are like that, but to me, shooting a shotgun (without a scope on it for crying out loud), is the "purest" form of any type of shooting. It was the closest I felt I came to how Zen archery is described. It's not possible to miss the target because you are the target." How true! You summed up the "sport" in 7 sentences. That's not easy!

How long do patent rights last?

Dry firing and mounting is good. Almost a two step process; one is practicing your mount and then mount, swing, fire, and follow thu according to your style of shooting,i.e. swing thru, sustained lead, etc. To practice gun mount and gun fit. Close your eyes and practice mounting. Open eyes and see if you are lined up along the rib, beads, etc. Do this while swinging left, right, straight on, etc while maintaining your shooting stance. Meaning, balance is correct, elbows, fluid movement and all that stuff! Then, eyes open and practice "dry firing". I might suggest you tape a piece of paper on the wall with an edge on clay target...magic marker. Concentrate on seeing that so you don't focus on your rib/beads which is easy if you don't have an object to look at.

Unless you want to buy another gun, just because! , I'd "look" at the Little Skeeter 410 "tubes". They are short and cheap, around $50 and I'm told they actually work pretty well. I believe you can buy them for your 12 or 28 gauge, depending on the weight of the 410 you want to shoot. Something to look at anyway. "Pretty well" means for 'fun' shooting. Mixed reviews depending on what you are looking for!

Not much to add, just decide on how much you want to spend. From used to new, a good auto can be @ $400-$1100 and a good O/U @ $900 - $2500. Choke tubes are good and barrel length is more of what feels best to you since a lot barrels are lighter "today", so length doesn't always mean "heavier". Don't go less than 26" on an auto or less than 28" on an O/U. I'd stick with Remington and Beretta for autos and Browning, Beretta for O/U's in your price range. Maybe Ruger, just not much experience with them to be honest.

I'd bet on Simmons also. On that gun, 3200s are very good guns IMO, the rib "appears" to be very high because the top barrel has been cut. So, to give you a "sighting plane" they had to increase the height of the rib, no top barrel after a point , to match the comb height on your stock. The stock "appears" to be a standard 3200 monte carlo stock...give or take. I'd suspect the true height of the rib, directly over the top barrel, that still exists, is similiar to your other barrels? In addition to what greg jones said about high ribs, the "intent" of "higher" ribs, along with higher stocks, is to keep your head more erect which increases your field of vision so you are not trying to look through your "eyebrows". Popular confiquration for some sports that always have rising targets. Nice gun and have fun!

straightshooter1, Been there and done that! HA! Shouldn't happen much though. I have both the old style primer feed, very reliable for me with Winchester primers anyway, and the new style one...pretty slick. Eliminates the chain if you haven't seen one and holds 200 primers. Looks like a better design to me...time will tell. LPatterson, 410's are a tough gauge to load...no question. I have a tough time getting "good looking" crimps with the 28 STS, not so with AA. Now, they work fine, just a lot of them are "crunched up". Matter of "pride", not function. Hard to kill the STS 12 gauge. Tough shell. In my younger years, I'd "pump" out 200-250 12 gauge shells an hour on a 600 JR. Of course, as I get older, the "shell count" per hour gets higher.