Andreas
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Posts posted by Andreas
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I was afraid that the Pro model was going to be the answer
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What are people using to replace dovetail front sights on Beretta 92X Performance slides? I'd like to swap in a thinner Dawson that takes a 1 mm fiber insert and was looking at an MGW Range Master Compact, but the comments specifically mention it not working on a 92X.
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Anyone had an opportunity to compare it with Clean Shot or Winchester 244?
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On 11/6/2018 at 10:55 PM, rowdyb said:
The same glasses are used by wide receivers at the college level to increase hand eye coordination.
Someone should try out a pair of Senaptec strobe glasses and get back to us.
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If you want to go the bargain route: Boost Your Brain’s Power With a 9-Volt Battery and Some Wet Sponges
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2 hours ago, Just4FunLP said:
Thanks for the reply Andreas... I have tried it both ways and it seems faster and more fluid to start with the hands and arms relaxed, but the consistency is not there yet. I'm still working through it so perhaps it will come with time. What do you think is faster and more consistent?
For sure starting with the hands and arms relaxed. Just pick the gun up out of the holster and get it on target without wasting energy or motion. If you feel the draw rippling up your arm and into your shoulder as you get your hand on the backstrap, that's a sign that you're putting way too much energy into your draw. Start with a casual draw of 2 s or so where you can stay relaxed, then see how things change as you pick up the pace. Tension will build as you do so, and you'll reach an obvious point where consistency goes out the window. Stay below that point in matches LOL!
2 hours ago, Just4FunLP said:For me to control the gun fast enough to maintain accuracy at speed I have to be shooting with intensity, meaning my hands are placed where I want them and everything is tight, grip, wrists, and elbows. If I continue down this path, I'll have to figure out a way to learn to run the first 80% of the draw stroke without tension, and then end with the the high tension locked grip, wrists and elbows. ...???
You're building your grip and as you drive the gun toward the target.
Try holding your gun out on front of you with a loose grip, then slowly build pressure. You'll feel the tension move up your arm, past your elbow, into your shoulder, and then your chest and back. Keep the tension distal of your elbow and you should be fine.
2 hours ago, Just4FunLP said:My problem is that I've done a lot of practice over the years and tried many techniques, but from what I can tell by practicing the classifiers is in order to break into master land I'm going to have to make some changes. What I've been doing isn't going to work. Right now I'll take a classifier and run it 20 times with maybe 1-4 master scores toward the end, and this is using pre-HHF adjustment scores. This has taught me I need to get faster at just about everything without reducing accuracy. I guess that's the name of the game for everyone. I think my problem has been I tend to practice too many techniques at once. This has been great for my performance on field courses, but not so good for classifiers. I want to focus on perfecting one skill at a time until I've significantly increased my HF on this simple three target drill. So with this in mind, step one is to reduce my time to first shot by 10-15% while improving accuracy of that hit, and having a really great grip for the rest of the array. When I think I have a technique that works I want to spend a great deal of time to burn it in and make it consistent before I add in the next technique. This will be followed by improving splits, transitions, and finally changing gears for distance and partials. I think I'm looking at least 3 months before I get to mag changes. My thinking is that I want to be sure I've selected and tested the best technique before I invest the time to and energy of burning it in. Please let me know if you agree or disagree with my training approach.
Disagree. This is based on wasting a lot of time and money on such an approach. More than once, because I'm a slow learner.
Obsessing over classifiers and getting to whatever class is the best way to ensure that it will take as long as possible. Probably even more so than not practicing. The problem is that you're building performance and outcome exceptions that will make it very difficult to stay relaxed when it's your turn to shoot. When the buzzer sounds, you want to step aside and let your subconscious mind just shoot in the present tense without thinking about the outcome.
I took a quick look at your recent match videos, and you're not lacking for shooting skill. It's interesting how much better you're shooting on the club match ones than the GA Championship. They're close enough in time that I don't think the improvement is entirely attributable to technical skills. I'm guessing it's more a result of you looking particularly wound up shooting the GA Championship stages?
All of my classifier runs for GM felt like casual affairs at the time. The buzzer went off, I dropped the hammer on a bunch of sight pictures that were good enough for Alphas and a few close Charlies, the end.
2 hours ago, Just4FunLP said:Right now I think my goal should be to consistently run the drill above with a first shot at around 1.0s and 0.2 splits on all three targets and all As. Does this sound like a realistic goal, or should I settle for 1.1s first shot? What's your first shot at 7 yards?
I'd recommend shooting a variety of drills and learning what kinds of sight pictures and trigger pulls you can get away with on various target presentations. Try doing a mix of match-pace runs where you're shooting them as if in a match and push runs where you're rounding off the edges and see how the hits turn out. Sight pictures can be shockingly bad and still result in Alphas if your grip is neutral (not torquing the gun) and you're pulling the trigger straight back. Shooting 25-yard Bill Drills is a really good way to refine your grip and trigger technique. When you're dialed in, splits in the low .30s are entirely doable. Learn what that feels like.
For drawing down on a single 7-yard target at a match, I'd expect my first shot to be a hair over a second. In practice, I know that I can get down under 0.90 s, but I'm not consistent at that speed and wouldn't push that hard in a match.
Splits of 0.20 are entirely reasonable on 7-yard targets but not particularly interesting. Almost anyone can do that. What's far more useful is pushing toward 0.25 splits on 15-yard targets and 0.30 splits on 20-yard ones. Split times at distance and on partials are one of the big differentiators between the people in contention to win a match and the pack.
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A consistent issue I'm seeing is that you're not coming into position with the gun up and already mostly aimed.
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Draw the gun like you'd insert a key in the front door of your house. Try this while tensing up and trying to go fast. Then try it while staying loose and not thinking about it. Which is faster and more consistent?
I shoot a Shadow 2 and am starting to crank back on the trigger as soon as my hands come together. On a close, open target, I'm cranking back fast so that the shot will break as soon as the gun comes to full extension. As the aiming area gets smaller, I'm slowing down trigger speed so that (1) I have more time to clean up the sight picture before the shot breaks and (2) I'm better able to isolate trigger-finger motion to the second knuckle of my trigger finger without it smiling over into the rest of my hand. But I don't want the trigger to stop moving at any point in this process.
I see a couple references to prepping the trigger. Ain't nobody got time for prepping the trigger in USPSA. Sweep your finger straight back to fire the shot, pulling straight through the break point. Sights should line up acceptably right as the shot fires. On tight shots, there will be a pause when you come to the break point as pressure builds. But you're not prepping the trigger, lining up the sights, and pulling through when they're perfect. After you fire the first shot on a paper target, let the trigger out and immediately start sweeping your finger back to fire the second shot.
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Dillon makes the body of their powder measure from cheap metal that bends over time. Powder spillage is an indicator that it's time to get a new one.
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2 minutes ago, bowenbuilt said:
I totally agree. About the only difference i can tell between the 2 powders is how they look and the price. Other than that ATK has made a great clone on N320. I am sold.
Yeah, 8# of Sport Pistol costs the same as 4# of N320, so…
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I’ve shot a few thousand rounds of this stuff and am sold. Meters well, doesn’t spill too much when advancing my 1050, clean, and negligible flash when matches run late (finished the GA Championship in the dark). I loaded a bunch of N320 right before shooting SP and couldn’t tell a difference.
4.05 gr. behind a Precision Delta 124 gr. JHP @ 1.1” gets me 130 PF from my Shadow 2. -
Stage 3: Get lower so that you can transition more quickly and lean out without having to pick up a leg..
Stage 2: Looking good, but try to stand so that you don't need to reposition your feet when transitioning between targets. Foot position is something to work during the walk-through and work into your pre-stage visualization.
Stage 1: Nice aggressive shooting other than the hitch moving into the last position.
Stages 5 & 6: Nothing obviously wrong, just need to shoot faster and more accurately.
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I recently polished off the last of my 20# case of Prima V. I had been loading Bullseye before that. Prima V burns cleanly and plays well with polymer bullets, but metering always seemed funky and took forever to settle down after making a change. I never managed the single-digit SDs that were the norm with Bullseye. This is probably related to the power spillage I'd see in my 1050. On the balance, I think Prima V is fine but I won't be ordering more. I'm planning to give Sport Pistol a try after loading the rest of the Bullseye I stumbled across in my basement.
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Thinking I might try Alliant Sport Pistol instead.
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I made Production M shooting Freedom's remanufactured 124 FMJs.
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All this sounds good. Curious whether it's clean burning like N320 and Prima V.
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Anyone shot both this and Prima V? I'm getting to the bottom of my Prima V stash, and while it's cheap and clean, SDs are kinda high in my 1050. I'm wondering if BA 9.5 might meter more consistently. I'm loading 124s.
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For foot speed, practice getting low and exiting positions explosively without shuffling your feet. You can do this in dry or live fire, doesn't matter. Use short strides when accelerating and decelerating to maximize the fraction of time you have a foot on the ground applying power or scrubbing speed.
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On 4/14/2017 at 2:26 PM, jeffroberdo said:
I am hearing a lot about Prima V Pistol Powder.
Where can i find reliable 9mm Load Data and,
Does anyone know where it falls on the Relative Burn Rate Chart?
Check page four in this PDF for burn rate info.
I'm not aware of manufacturer data for Prima V pistol loads, as it's marketed as a shotgun powder. I developed my Prima V pistol loads by starting with Internet heresy and working up carefully.
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Favorite would be a 124 gr. Hornady HAP pushed to ~130 PF. I've loaded with Bullseye and Prima V. Both work great and conveniently need a 4.2 gr. charge out of my Shadows.
124 gr. Precision Delta JHP is almost as good.
I recently experimented with 147 gr. bullets but gave up despite the softer recoil due to not being able to get them shooting nearly as accurately.
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Thanks for the replies. Good to know that my stash of Shadow spare parts will largely carry forward to the Shadow 2.
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Any sense yet on which parts will interchange between the Shadow and Shadow 2? In particular, any of the main consumables like springs and the slide stop?
Canik Rival-S with all the goodies!
in Canik
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I shoot 125 gr. BBIs and load them to 1.100".
If you pull the barrel and drop a round in the chamber, can you twist the base of the case and have it spin freely? If not, you have three main choices:
1. Incrementally shorten the OAL until the rounds plunk, then shorten another 0.025" or so and load there.
2. Ream the throat longer so it accommodates your ammo.
3. Sell the gun and switch to one that runs your ammo.